, 


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mil  Sow™ 


SECOND 


ANNUAL  REPORT 


GEOLOGY  OF 


UBLIC  LANDS, 


BELONGING  TO  THE  STATES  OP 


MAINE  AND  MASSACHUSETTS. 


S£?  I 


SECOND 


ANNUAL  REPORT 

ON  THE 

GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS, 

BELONGING  TO  THE  TWO  STATES  OF 

/ \ 

MASSACHUSETTS  AND  MAINE. 


1 


Suk' 


V4 


B Y C.  T.  JACKSON, 

GEOLOGICAL  SURVEYOR. 


Boston: 

DUTTON  AND  WENTWORTH,  STATE  PRINTERS. 

1833. 


•ssi 

T I 3S-^ 


To  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  : 

I transmit  to  the  House  of  Representatives  for  the  information  of 
the  Legislature,  the  Second  and  final  Report  of  the  Geologist  ap- 
pointed to  make  a Geological  Survey  of  the  Public  Lands  in  the 
State  of  Maine. 

EDWARD  EVERETT. 

Council  Chamber, 

4th  April,  1838. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
* in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/secondannualrepoOOjack 


INTRODUCTION. 


In  order  to  forma  comprehensive  idea  of  the  Geological  Structure 
of  the  Public  Lands  in  Maine,  it  is  necessary  to  consider  some  of  the 
results  to  which  we  have  arrived,  in  examining  other  portions  of  the 
state  so  far  as  to  determine  the  relative  positions  and  ages  of  the  va- 
rious great  rock  formations,  which  present  themselves  to  view  while 
we  apply  the  general  principles  of  geological  science  to  their  eluci- 
dation. 

In  making  our  explorations  of  the  state,  we  have  endeavored  to  re- 
cord with  strict  accuracy,  every  observation  which  we  were  able  to 
make  while  on  the  spot  where  the  phenomena  presented  themselves, 
and  specimens  of  all  the  rocks  have  been  collected  by  us,  and  were 
invariably  labelled  immediately  after  they  were  obtained,  so  that  they 
are  faithful  indications  of  the  true  geology  of  the  country. 

In  addition  to  our  more  especial  geological  duties,  we  have  en- 
deavored to  give  a portion  of  our  attention  to  the  interesting  topo- 
graphical features  of  the  state,  and  have  measured  the  altitude  of 
many  remarkable  eminences  and  table  lands,  so  that  we  might  be  en- 
abled to  present  sectional  views  of  the  relief  of  the  country. 

At  the  same  time,  I have  laid  down  with  care,  the  various  rock 
formations,  which  I have  represented  in  colors  upon  the  best  maps  of 
the  state  that  could  be  procured. 

An  uncolored  map  of  the  late  Moses  Greenleaf,  Esq.,  has  served  as 
a basis  for  our  general  records,  while  the  admirable  manuscript  plans  of 
the  Penobscot  and  Allagash  waters,  drawn  by  Col.  Joseph  Treat,  while 
employed  to  make  a survey  of  those  regions,  under  the  orders  of  the 
late  Governor  Lincoln,  of  Maine,  have  been  copied  by  my  direc- 
tions, and  were  used  for  laying  down  in  detail,  the  various  rocks 
which  present  themselves  in  that  great  section  of  the  public  lands. 


VI 


INTRODUCTION. 


A general  map  of  the  public  lands,  drawn  under  the  direction  of 
the  Massachusetts  land  agent,  G.  W.  Coffin,  Esq.,  and  intended  for 
the  purpose  of  laying  out  the  various  townships  belonging  to  the  two 
states  in  common,  was  also  found  to  be  very  useful  as  indicating  the 
positions  of  those  portions  of  the  public  domain  in  which  the  two 
states  are  still  interested,  while  the  map  being  drawn  on  a large  scale, 
gave  us  ample  room  for  the  insertion  of  our  observations  respecting 
the  geology  of  the  country,  which  we  were  called  upon  to  explore. 

Since  there  were  several  rivers  which  had  never  been  surveyed, 
upon  which  our  researches  extended,  and  those  rivers  were  not  put 
down  correctly  upon  the  state  map,  I was  called  upon  to  draw  plans 
of  them  sufficiently  accurate  for  our  purposes.  By  means  of  a 
good  pocket  compass  placed  in  the  bow  of  the  canoe,  we  could 
easily  run  the  courses  of  these  rivers,  and  the  distances  of  the 
various  points  were  ascertained,  either  by  noting  the  intersections  of 
township  lines,  or  by  estimating  by  the  eye  the  distances  by  diame- 
ters of  the  rivers  as  we  proceeded.  More  accurate  surveys  of  those 
waters  ought  to  be  made,  but  such  surveys  of  the  geography  of  the 
country  would  have  required  too  much  of  our  time,  and  have  pre- 
vented our  making  such  observations  as  were  the  especial  objects  of 
our  explorations.  A large  portion  of  the  State  we  have  already  ex- 
plored, and  the  heights  of  the  most  interesting  places  has  been  de- 
termined, either  by  barometrical  measurement  or  by  triangulation. 
After  making  the  measurement  of  Mt.  Ktaadn,  the  barometers  were 
so  much  injured  by  the  rough  usage,  to  which  they  were  necessarily 
exposed  in  such  a laborious  journey  amid  tangled  thickets,  that  they 
could  no  longer  be  relied  upon,  and  consequently  they  were  not  car- 
ried over  to  the  Aroostook  river. 

All  the  elevations  reported,  were,  however,  made,  when  these  in- 
struments were  in  perfect  order,  and  many  of  their  results  have  been 
most  carefully  proved  by  comparison  of  the  heights  taken  in  detail 
and  added  together,  and  by  direct  calculation,  as  also  by  the  opera- 
tion of  triangulations,  by  means  of  a small  portable  theodolite  pocket 
sextant,  and  Sir  Howard  Douglas’s  reflecting  semi-circle.  It  was 
my  intention  to  have  caused  a geological  map  of  the  public  lands  to 
be  drawn,  illustrated  by  sectional  views  of  its  geological  structure  ; 
but  such  plans  could  not  possibly  be  drawn  in  season  to  accompany 


INTRODUCTION. 


Vll 


the  present  report.  If  they  should  be  desired  hereafter,  I shall  most 
cheerfully  comply  with  the  orders  of  government. 

Should  future  surveys  be  called  for,  in  adjusting  the  vexed  question 
of  the  North  Eastern  Boundary  line  of  the  United  States,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  carry  a set  of  good  mountain  barometers  along  the  line 
which  is  claimed  by  us  under  the  treaty  of  1783  ; and  I doubt  not, 
that  the  chain  of  highlands  which  separate  the  waters  flowing  into  the 
Atlantic  ocean  from  those  that  flow  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  will  be 
readily  found  in  the  district  where  the  present  claim  is  made  by  the 
United  States. 

It  will  be  seen,  in  the  report  of  my  excellent  assistant,  Mr.  James 
T.  Hodge,  that  there  is  a chain  of  highlands  in  the  district  in  ques- 
tion, there  being  a number  of  mountains  which  divide  the  waters 
flowing  north  from  those  which  flow  to  the  south.  Should  the  boun- 
dary line  be  submitted  to  the  exploration  of  a board  of  engineers,  I 
apprehend  they  would  find  no  difficulty  in  tracing  it  according  to  our 
claim. 

The  claim  set  up  by  Great  Britain  to  more  than  ten  thousand 
square  miles  of  the  territory  of  Maine,  on  the  plea  that  the  St.  John 
does  not  empty  into  the  Atlantic  ocean,  but  pours  its  waters  into  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  and  that  the  chain  of  highlands  designated  in  the 
treaty  of  1783,  is  the  range  which  divides  the  Penobscot  and  Ken- 
nebec waters  from  the  Allagash  and  Walloostook,  is  certainly  too 
absurd  for  serious  refutation,  and  shows  only  an  earnest  and  grasping 
desire  of  that  country  to  extend  its  territory  into  lands  belonging  justly 
to  this  country. 

It  is  greatly  to  be  deplored,  that  few  of  our  legislators  or  commis- 
sioners have  ever  visited  the  disputed  territory,  and  that  they  are  not 
prepared  to  act  understandingly  upon  the  subject,  while  they  have 
not  even  the  advantage  of  consulting  a correct  map  of  that  region, 
since  no  accurate  surveys  have  yet  been  made  along  the  northern 
boundary. 

I will  ask,  however,  if  we  are  prepared  to  make  a sacrifice  of  one 
of  the  most  valuable  timber  and  agricultural  districts  in  the  state  of 
Maine,  or  if  we  shall  willingly  give  to  Great  Britain  the  great  military 
power  over  our  territory  which  she  would  be  able  to  possess,  should 
we  relinquish  to  her,  in  any  degree,  our  boundary  line. 


INTRODUCTION. 


viii 

The  question  is  not,  however,  merely  one  of  property  in  the  back- 
woods  of  Maine,  although  such  a consideration  is  of  no  small  impor- 
tance, but  it  is  one  of  great  military  and  civil  interest,  in  which  not 
only  Massachusetts  and  Maine  are  concerned,  as  proprietors  of  the 
soil,  but  all  New  England  and  the  whole  confederacy  of  the  states 
are  interested  ; for  the  British  claim  extends  entirely  from  the  St. 
John,  at  Mars  Hill,  to  the  westernmost  branch  of  the  Connecticut 
river,  and  would  give  to  that  government  facilities  which,  in  time  of 
war,  would  extend  her  power  along  the  central  parts  of  Maine,  by 
the  sources  of  all  her  great  rivers,  to  the  Connecticut,  which  empties 
its  waters  into  Long  Island  Sound,  thus  surrounding  all  the  New 
England  states,  upon  the  frontiers  of  which  a most  harassing  warfare 
might  be  carried  on  ; while  the  strong  arm  of  the  Union  would  thus 
be  crippled,  so  that  its  strength  could  not  be  so  powerfully  exerted 
in  the  defence  of  our  common  country.  Although  war  is  a great 
evil,  yet  exigencies  may  arise  by  which  we  may  be  forced  into  such 
a contest,  and  I would  urge  upon  government  the  importance  of  main- 
taining unaltered  our  ancient  well-defined  boundary,  which  ought  to 
be  forthwith  surveyed  and  marked  by  suitable  monuments. 

I shall  not  enter  farther  into  the  discussion  of  this  important  sub- 
ject, nor  agitate  the  question  respecting  the  constitutional  power  of  the 
United  States  Government  to  cede  any  portion  of  the  state  of  Maine, 
now’  inhabited  by  citizens  of  that  state,  or  to  sever  a portion  from 
the  state  of  Vermont,  by  allowing  the  line  claimed  by  the  British 
government ; but  I will  observe,  that  the  country  is  now  arrested,  in 
the  increase  of  its  settlements  and  in  its  commercial  business,  by  the 
unsettled  state  of  this  question.  The  moment  the  boundary  line  is 
adjusted,  agreeably  to  our  claim,  the  tide  of  emigration  will  begin  to 
flow  rapidly  towards  the  banks  of  the  Aroostook  and  to  the  Mada- 
waska  territory,  and  many  active  and  enterprising  individuals  will  be 
deterred  from  distant  western  emigration,  and  will  turn  their  labor 
towards  the  Eastern  forests,  and  soils,  and  minerals,  while  that  im- 
portant section  of  the  country  will  become  a great  agricultural  and 
manufacturing  district. 

In  describing  the  geology  of  Maine,  I have  denoted  the  localities 
of  many  valuable  rocks  and  minerals,  while  the  relative  positions  and 
ages  of  the  great  rock  formations  have  been  carefully  ascertained. 


INTRODUCTION. 


IX 


Along  the  western  line  of  the  state  where  it  joins  New  Hamp- 
shire, the  principal  masses  of  rocks  belong  to  the  primary  class,  and 
are  mostly  granite  gneiss  and  mica  slate,  which  have  been  burst  open 
by  intruding  masses  of  molten  rocks,  injected  from  below,  which 
have  been  protruded  from  beneath  the  granite,  and  cut  through  that 
rock  in  long  dykes  or  great  veins  of  rock  that  have  been  forced 
up  through  long  rents  in  the  superincumbent  mass. 

The  granite  itself  bears  ample  proofs  of  its  igneous  origin,  and 
it  was  forced  up  in  a molten  state,  since  the  deposition  and  consoli- 
dation of  the  stratified  rocks  that  rest  upon  it,  they  being  variously 
broken  and  distorted  by  this  violent  upheaving. 

The  epoch  of  this  granitic  eruption  we  have  ascertained  to  have 
been  since  the  deposition  of  the  transition  argillaceous  slates.  By 
this  disruption,  the  strata  have  been  turned  up  so  as  to  incline  highly 
to  the  horizon,  while  various  remarkable  changes  have  been  effected 
in  their  composition  and  structure. 

The  lower  slate  strata  pass  by  regular  gradations  into  micacious 
slate,  and  that  in  turn  graduates  into  gneiss,  which  rests  immediately 
upon  the  sides  of  the  granite  mountains,  and  all  these  rocks  show  by 
their  contortions  and  fractures  and  chemical  changes  which  they  have 
undergone,  that  they  have  been  subjected  to  violent  mechanical  and 
igneous  disturbance. 

The  limestone  beds  which  abound  in  the  gneiss  and  mica  slate 
rocks  entirely  across  the  counties  of  York,  Oxford  and  Kennebec, 
from  the  New  Hampshire  boundary  line  to  the  Kennebec  River,  are 
of  the  granular  crystalline  variety,  filled  with  minute  crystals  of  green 
coccolite  or  pyroxene,  and  it  is  the  opinion  of  geologists,  that  such 
beds  of  limestone  were  originally  formed  from  marine  shells,  which 
were  deposited  with  the  sedimentary  matter  that  was  subsequently 
converted  into  gneiss  by  the  igneous  action  of  the  subjacent  granite. 
The  mountains  in  York  and  Oxford  counties  evidently  belong  to  the 
same  group  of  erupted  rocks  as  those  of  the  White  mountain  range 
in  New  Hampshire,  and  they  extend  from  the  boundary  line  of  that 
state  entirely  to  the  Kennebec  River. 

Between  the  Kennebec  and  Penobscot  Rivers,  along  the  great 
road  from  Augusta  to  Bangor,  the  talcose  and  argillaceous  slate  rocks 
present  themselves  to  view,  and  these  stratified  rocks  repose  direcdy 


X 


INTRODUCTION. 


upon  the  granite  which  shews  itself  along  the  whole  sea  coast  of 
Lincoln  county,  and  bursts  through  the  strata  upon  the  Penobscot 
at  Mt.  Waldo  and  Mosquito  Mountains  in  Frankfort. 

Proceeding  from  Bangor  to  Lubec,  and  to  the  shores  of  the  St. 
Croix  river,  we  passed  over  various  granitic  rocks,  and  along  a great 
belt  of  greenstone  trap,  which  has  been  forced  up  through  all  the  so- 
lid rocks  from  below  the  granite,  to  the  top  of  the  new  red  sandstone 
formation,  exhibiting  the  most  marked  and  wonderful  effects  of  the 
action  of  fire,  and  forming  the  largest  mass  of  similar  origin  hitherto 
described. 

As  we  ascend  the  St.  Croix,  we  discover  its  banks  to  be  compo- 
sed cheifly  of  new  red  sandstone,  resting  upon  the  transition  argilla- 
ceous limestone,  filled  with  numerous  marine  shells,  which  shews  it- 
self at  Perry,  and  along  the  shores  of  Cobscook  bay  ; and  this  sand- 
stone is  cut  through  by  numerous  and  powerful  dykes  of  greenstone 
trap,  which  igneous  rock  has  exerted  so  remarkable  an  action  upon 
the  sandstone,  that  no  one  could  doubt,  for  a moment,  that  the  in- 
jected rock  was  thrown  in,  in  a liquid  incandescent  state.  Follow- 
ing the  eastern  boundary  line  through  the  forests,  along  the  banks  of 
the  St.  Croix,  to  Houlton,  and  thence,  traversing  a line  parallel  to 
the  St.  John  river,  along  our  boundary,  w7e  first  pass  over  masses  of 
granite  and  sienite  rocks  which  have  burst  through  the  slate  strata, 
along  the  St.  Croix  road,  and  come  next  to  the  transition  limestone, 
near  Houlton ; and  from  that  frontier  post,  northward,  we  find  a con- 
tinued succession  of  limestone  and  slate  strata,  cut  by  numerous  trap 
dykes,  and  beds,  veins  of  iron  ore,  and  manganese. 

If  we  now  return  to  the  Penobscot  waters,  we  shall  discover  along 
the  southern  boundary  of  the  public  lands,  in  Williamburg,  Brown- 
ville,  Barnard,  and  Foxcroft,  inexhaustible  supplies  of  valuable  roof- 
ing slate,  and  important  beds  of  excellent  bog  iron  ores.  The  slates 
running  nearly  parallel  with  the  Piscataquis  river,  on  the  northern  side 
of  which  they  are  of  the  best  quality. 

Ascending  the  Penobscot  to  Mount  Ktaadn,  we  first  pass  by  nu- 
merous ledges  of  argillaceous  slate,  which  extends  from  Frankfort, 
below  Bangor,  entirely  to  the  Grand  Falls,  upon  the  west  branch  of 
the  Penobscot,  where  we  come  to  the  granite  rocks  which  belong  to 
the  great  Ktaadn  range.  The  whole  country  around  Mount  Ktaadn 
is  composed  of  granite  rocks,  and  that  mountain  forms  the  point  of 


INTRODUCTION. 


XI 


the  great  central  elevation  of  the  strata  in  that  part  of  Maine,  for  the 
stratified  rocks  to  the  north  and  south  of  it,  recline  upon  its  sides. 

Continuing  our  route  northward,  along  the  line  of  lakes  which  are 
connected  by  the  Allagash  waters  with  the  St.  John,  and  through 
that  route  to  Canada,  we  pass  over  the  newer  transition  slates  and 
grau-wacke  rocks,  containing  beds  of  limestone,  valuable  for  agricul- 
ture, and  reach  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouths  of  the 
Riviere  du  Loup. 

By  ascending  the  Seboois  we  gain  another  transverse  section  of 
the  strata  to  the  eastward  of  Mount  Ktaadn,  and  traverse  numerous 
conglomerate  rocks,  grau-wacke,  and  slate  strata,  filled  with  numer- 
ous and  valuable  beds  of  madrepore  limestones,  and  on  reaching  the 
Aroostook,  we  follow  that  broad  sweeping  river  through  its  mean- 
derings,  as  it  makes  its  great  curvatures  through  the  public  lands 
and  projects  itself  over  a fall  of  15  feet  into  the  St.  John,  a little 
above  the  confluence  of  the  Tobique  stream.  The  Aroostook  is 
remarkable  for  its  wide  spreading  intervales,  and  excellent  limestone 
soil,  while  its  banks  are  covered  with  a luxuriant  growth  of  various 
valuable  forest  trees. 

The  rocks  upon  this  river  are  chiefly  limestone,  slate,  grau-wacke 
and  trap  rocks,  which  exist  in  abundance.  Valuable  beds  of  iron 
ore  are  also  found  included  in  the  green  and  red  calciferous  slates 
upon  this  river,  and  from  the  occurrence  of  fine  grau-wacke  impreg- 
nated with  carbon,  it  is  highly  probable  that  anthracite  will  be  discov- 
ered in  that  vicinity  when  clearings  shall  expose  the  out-cropping 
edges  of  the  strata  now  concealed  from  view.  A belt  of  the  rocks 
belonging  to  the  coal  formation  extends  from  Sugar-loaf  mountain 
upon  the  Seboois  to  the  Aroostook,  and  to  Mars  Hill  upon  the  St. 
John,  forming  a tract  of  country  40  miles  wide  by  60  miles  inJength, 
and  this  same  formation  has  been  traced  by  the  assistant  geologist 
quite  to  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence  in  Canada. 

If  we  draw  a line  from  the  shores  of  the  St.  Croix  to  Quebec  in 
Canada,  it  will  cut  across  all  the  great  rock  formations  of  Maine,  and 
considering  the  Mount  Ktaadn  group  of  granite  mountains  as  the 
centre  of  elevation,  we  shall  find  the  stratified  rocks  to  belong  to 
newer  formations  as  we  recede  from  it  in  N.W.  & S.E.  directions, 
until  we  come  to  the  fossiliferous  lime-stones  and  sand-stones  of  the 
St.  Croix  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  secondary  limestones  on  the  other. 


XU 


INTRODUCTION. 


Having  presented  the  above  generalizations,  I would  remark  that,  the 
nature  of  the  soils  in  various  parts  of  the  state  appears  to  depend 
upon  the  nature  of  the  rocks  which  occur  to  the  northward  of  the 
localities,  where  they  are  observed  more  than  upon  the  nature  of  the 
rocks  immediately  beneath  ; for  there  are  indubitable  proofs  that  the 
whole  mass  of  loose  materials  have  been  swept  from  the  surface  of 
their  parent  ledges  towards  the  south,  and  the  precise  direction  of  the 
diluvial  current  by  which  this  was  effected,  has  been  found  to  have 
been  from  the  N.  15°  W.  to  S.  15°  E.,  while  the  exact  extent  of 
this  aqueous  transportation  has  not  yet  been  satisfactorily  determined. 

On  the  Aroostook  it  is  probable,  that]  nearly  all  the  soils  which 
form  the  intervals  upon  the  banks  of  that  river  are  of  alluvial  origin, 
or  were  brought  down  and  deposited  by  that  river  while  its  course 
winding  its  way  among  various  rocks,  principally  grau-wacke,  lime- 
stone slate,  and  trap,  would  enable  the  waters  to  take  up  and  deposit 
various  rich  alluvions. 

The  character  of  the  country  in  most  cases  determines  the  oc- 
cupations of  the  inhabitants,  so  it  will  appear  from  the  geological 
character  of  this  river,  that  the  settlers  will  engage  first  in  the  lum- 
ber trade,  which  will  be  followed  by  the  more  sure  and  profitable 
occupation  of  farming  ; while  iron  founderies,  with  their  various  ma- 
chine shops  will  lay  the  foundation  for  a thriving  manufacturing  busi- 
ness, and  will  supply  all  the  important  implements  in  agriculture  and 
the  arts.  The  limestones  will  be  burned  for  lime  which  is  required 
for  building  and  for  agricultural  use,  and  the  Tobique  gypsum  will 
always  afford  the  means  of  bringing  out  the  virtues  of  the  limestone 
soil,  which  is  covered  with  a rich  black  vegetable  mould,  that  will 
be  rendered  more  nutritive  to  plants  by  skilful  treatment.  With 
such  resources  the  public  domain  cannot  fail  to  become  a most  valu- 
able territory,  and  all  that  is  now  wanting  to  give  an  impetus  to  its 
settlement  is,  first,  to  finish  the  great  roads,  so  as  give  ready  access 
to  the  Aroostook  and  Madawaska,  so  that  the  settlers  may  have  the 
means  of  transporting  their  produce  to  market ; and  secondly,  to 
adjust  the  boundary  question,  so  as  to  remove  the  injunction  now 
placed  against  the  cutting  of  timber,  an  injunction  which  evidently 
favors  the  lumber  dealers  upon  the  St.  John,  while  it  prevents 
American  citizens  from  engaging  in  a profitable  occupation,  and  ob- 
structs the  free  settlement  of  the  country. 


To  His  Excellency 


Edward  Everett, 

Governor  of  Massachusetts : 

Sir, — In  accordance  with  the  instructions  received  from  your 
Excellency,  I have  made  a general  reconnoissance  of  the  Geology 
of  such  portions  of  the  Public  Lands,  belonging  jointly  to  the  states 
of  Massachusetts  and  Maine,  as  would  prove  advantageous  to  the 
State,  from  their  situation,  and  the  facilities  of  communication  with 
them.  It  being  evident  that  no  immediate  benefit  would  arise  from 
minute  researches  in  the  midst  of  trackless  forests  seldom  if  ever 
visited  by  civilized  men.  I thought  it  would  be  advisable  to  devote 
our  attention  chiefly  to  those  districts  that  lie  upon  the  borders  of 
the  great  rivers  which  intersect  the  public  domain,  for  those  regions 
are  the  only  districts  which  are  at  present  accessible  to  the  lumber- 
man and  settler,  since  the  rivers  are  the  only  highways  which  there 
exist,  by  which  the  various  articles  of  supplies  and  trade  can  be  trans- 
ported. The  important  sections  of  this  great  territory  now  accessi- 
ble, are  intersected  J>y  the  Penobscot,  Seboois,  Allagash,  St.  Fran- 
cois, Madawaska,  St.  John,  and  Aroostook,  while  numerous  great 
lakes  surrounded  by  dense  groves  of  valuable  timber,  and  useful 
rocks,  serve  to  give  access  to  a large  portion  of  the  country. 

There  are  commonly  recognised  two  grand  divisions  in  the  public 
property.  The  timber  districts  and  the  settling  lands,  and  it  fre- 
quently happens  that  a tract  of  land  is  adapted  to  but  one  of  these 
purposes.  This  is  especially  the  case  upon  the  Penobscot,  where 
the  lofty  pine  and  hemlock  trees  frequently  abound  upon  a soil,  that 
would  not  repay  the  agriculturalist  for  the  labor  of  its  cultivation. 

Upon  the  Seboois  and  Aroostook,  it  is,  however,  otherwise,  and 
good  timber  is  found  upon  rich  settling  lands.  This  is  especially 
the  case  with  the  latter  river,  which  is  ODe  of  the  most  remarkable 
in  the  country,  and  its  borders  are  certainly  richer  as  an  agricultural 
district  than  any  other  portion  of  Maine. 

1 


2 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


An  attentive  observer  will  remark  that  the  soil  upon  the  Penob- 
scot is  chiefly  composed  of  an  alluvion  from  argillaceous  slate  and 
granite  rocks,  and  that  it  is  generally  a cold  and  wet  soil,  producing 
a great  abundance  of  hemlock  and  pine  trees,  the  hemlocks  greatly 
predominating  along  the  margin  of  the  livers  and  lakes,  while  the 
heaviest  pines  grow  on  the  more  elevated  land. 

On  the  Aroostook,  it  will  be  remarked,  that  very  few,  if  any, 
hemlock  trees  exist,  and  the  predominating  growth  is  a mixture  of 
various  hard  wood  forest  trees,  the  sugar  maple,  ash,  and  yellow 
birch  abounding,  while  occur  scattering  some  of  the  most  lofty  pine 
trees  ever  beheld. 

There  are  evident  reasons  why  this  should  be  the  case  ; for  the 
richest  soils  are  always  most  crowded  with  a mixed  growth,  and  the 
Aroostook  soils  are  mostly  of  limestone  alluvion,  and  are  exceeding- 
ly rich  and  good  settling  lands,  remarkable  for  their  heavy  crops  of 
wheat,  rye,  and  other  grains. 

The  geological  structure  of  the  Penobscot  is  very  simple  and 
monotonous  in  its  character,  while  that  of  the  Seboois  and  Ar- 
oostook are  extremely  interesting,  and  furnish  an  abundance  of  valua- 
ble materials  for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants  and  for  foreign  trade. 

In  order  to  accomplish  as  much  as  possible  in  our  survey,  it  was 
necessary  to  lay  down  a plan  of  operations,  and,  after  due  considera- 
tion, the  following  method  was  adopted. 

A sectional  line  was  laid  out  along  the  Penobscot  river,  through 
the  public  lands,  to  the  Allagash  stream,  and  upon  that  stream  into 
the  St.  John,  from  whence  the  route  was  continued  through  to  the 
St.  Lawrence  by  the  Madawaska,  and  returning,  a survey  was  made 
of  the  St.  Francois. 

A large  map  having  been  carefully  compiled,  which  gave  all  the 
important  details  of  the  country,  on  a scale  of  a mile  to  the  inch,  we 
were  enabled  to  record  minutely  the  geology  of  the  country  traversed. 
These  maps  were  put  into  the  hands  of  the  assistant  geologist,  who 
had  become  familiar  with  my  method  of  making  and  recording  obser- 
vations, and  written  instructions  were  given  him  as  to  the  subjects 
which  he  was  to  investigate  and  record.  Thus  prepared,  Mr.  Hodge 
was  furnished  with  a boat  and  two  men  familiar  with  the  region  in 
question,  and  set  out  for  his  long  and  fatiguing  voyage  to  Canada. 


1838 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


3 


The  results  of  his  observations  are  herewith  presented,  and,  since  all 
the  observations  were  exactly  recorded  according  to  my  directions, 
and  the  specimens  collected  have  all  been  examined  by  me,  I am 
willing  to  guarantee  their  correctness. 

While  the  assistant  was  engaged  in  the  performance  of  this  work,  I 
devoted  three  months  to  the  examination  of  other  districts  of  Maine, 
and  subsequently  entered  upon  the  public  lands,  where  I spent  two 
months  in  the  various  explorations  of  its  topography  and  geology. 
Thus  the  lime  spent  by  the  assistant  upon  those  districts  was  four 
months,  and  two  more  were  devoted  to  them  by  me,  so  that  a full 
proportion  of  our  labors  have  been  devoted  to  the  examination  of  the 
public  lands. 

After  the  assistant  had  completed  the  Penobscot  and  Allagash  sec- 
tion, he  accompanied  me  in  reviewing  a portion  of  the  work,  and 
then  I laid  out  and  completed  the  great  line  of  observations  upon  the 
east  branch  of  the  Penobscot,  the  Seboois  and  Aroostook  rivers, 
which  sweep  through  the  lands  belonging  jointly  to  the  two  states, 
and  give  admirable  sections  of  the  geological  structure  of  the  country. 

Thus  we  have  been  able,  by  our  joint  efforts,  to  complete  the 
exploration  of  all  the  great  rivers  'upon  those  portions  of  the  public 
lands  which  are  at  present  available  to  the  lumberman  and  settler, 
while  the  sources  of  the  Walloostook  still  remain  unexplored,  and 
may  be  examined  hereafter,  when  the  country  in  that  portion  of  the 
wilderness  becomes  of  commercial  value.  Thus  far,  nothing  is 
known  of  that  district,  and  it  is  not  divided  into  townships,  since  no 
surveys  have  ever  been  made  there.  From  the  accounts  which  I 
have  obtained  from  the  Indians,  I should  not  suppose  that  it  would 
prove  very  interesting  to  the  geologist. 

During  the  warm  months  of  the  past  summer  the  dense  swarms  of 
black  flies  and  mosquitoes  almost  disabled  us  in  our  labors,  but  af- 
terwards, when  the  weather  became  cooler,  we  were  enabled  to  work 
to  greater  advantage,  and  at  that  season  a vast  amount  of  geological 
information  was  obtained.  , 

Since  no  surveys  have  ever  been  made  of  the  St.  Francois, 
Aroostook,  and  Seboois  rivers,  we  found  it  necessary  for  the  pur- 
pose of  keeping  our  records  of-the  geol  gical  structure  of  the  coun- 
try, to  make  plans  of  them  on  a large  scale,  and  I have  thus  been 


4 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


enabled  to  make  a faithful  record  of  all  our  researches  upon  those 
rivers.  Our  plan  of  the  Aroostook  is  drawn  on  so  large  a scale  that 
it  would  form  a map  twenty-five  feet  in  length,  and  thus  presents  am- 
ple details  : every  rock,  ledge,  island,  or  other  remarkable  object 
is  thus  put  down  very  accurately,  while  the  nature  of  the  soil,  the 
height  of  the  river’s  banks,  and  the  nature  of  the  forest  trees,  are  all 
distinctly  noted,  and  the  houses  of  the  settlers,  are  all  put  down  as 
they  present  themselves  on  our  way. 

Since  it  was  thought  probable  at  that  time,  that  difficulties  might 
perhaps  occasion  a rupture  between  the  British  provinces  and  Maine, 
I was  more  especially  anxious  to  record  the  marked  topographical 
features  of  a country,  which  would  necessarily  become  the  theatre  of 
action  in  case  of  war. 

There  are  now  said  to  be,  per  census,  about  450  inhabitants  settled 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Aroostook,  and  they  are  chiefly  citizens  who 
have  emigrated  from  other  portions  of  Maine,  and  are  strongly  at- 
tached to  our  institutions  and  laws.  They  have  never  submitted  to 
foreign  jurisdiction,  but  met  the  first  attempt  of  the  kind  by  open 
and  successful  resistance.  They  claim,  and  will  receive  the  protec- 
tion and  aid  of  Maine. 

Madawaska  is  populated  by  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  Acadi- 
ans,  who  were  driven  from  their  homes  in  Nova  Scotia,  in  1775. 
They  are  generally  unacquainted  with  the  English  language,  but 
speak  a peculiar  dialect  or  patois  of  the  French  tongue. 

They  know  but  little  of  the  geography  or  politics  of  the  country, 
and  desire  to  live  unmolested  by  the  dissentions  of  the  two  countries 
who  claim  jurisdiction  over  them.  Their  habits  are  simple  and  fru- 
gal, while  they  live  chiefly  by  hunting,  fishing,  and  trapping  of  beaver 
and  otter.  Since  a detailed  account  of  this  district  was  laid  before 
your  Excellency  in  my  last  annual  report  it  will  not  be  necessary  to 
repeat  those  observations  here. 

It  is  sufficient  to  remark,  that  it  is  a matter  of  great  importance  to 
us,  that  the  Madawaska  people  should  become  attached  to  the  insti- 
tutions of  our  country,  instead  of  being  brought  up  to  consider  them- 
selves subjects  to  the  crown  of  Great  Britain. 

Madawaska  is  a valuable  agricultural  district,  capable  of  produc- 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


5 


ing  an  abundance  of  grain,  for  the  soils  are  chiefly  from  the  lime- 
stone rocks,  and  are  rich  and  productive. 

Limestones  abound  in  the  whole  tract  of  country  from  the  Seboois 
and  Aroostook  to  the  River  St.  Lawrence  in  Canada,  and  that  whole 
district  is  capable  of  being  an  important  agricultural  country. 

The  researches  of  the  present  season  have  brought  to  light  many 
important  resources  in  the  public  domain,  which  were  before  un- 
known. Beds  of  iron  ore  of  immense  magnitude,  favorably  situated 
for  advantageous  operations  occur  on  the  Aroostook,  and ’all  the 
marked  characteristics  of  the  regular  coal  formation  exhibit  them- 
selves over  a great  belt  of  country  from  the  Seboois  to  the  Aroos- 
took and  St.John,  and  extend  to  the  Temiscuata  lake,  near  the  fron- 
tiers of  Canada. 

The  observations  which  we  have  here  recorded,  cannot  fail  to 
augment  the  value  of  the  public  lands,  for  every  new  resource  in  the 
country  when  discovered,  tends  to  enhance  the  value  of  that  district. 

The  new  road  now  in  progress  from  the  great  military  road  to  the 
Aroostook,  and  from  thence  to  Madawaska  will,  when  completed,  af- 
ford ready  access  to  those  valuable  regions,  and  settlers  will  soon 
crowd  into  that  part  of  the  country,  which  will  become  so  densely 
populated,  as  to  defy  the  power  of  foreign  aggression. 

It  should  be  the  policy  of  the  two  states  of  Massachusetts  and 
Maine,  to  afford  every  facility  to  the  actual  settler  upon  that  dis- 
trict, for  there  is  no  more  effectual  method  of  settling  the  boundary 
question,  than  by  actually  taking  possession  of  the  country  within 
the  limits  of  our  ancient  and  well  known  boundary  line. 

In  drawing  up  our  Reports  upon  the  public  lands,  I have  thought 
it  would  be  expedient  to  present  as  much  topographical  information 
respecting  the  country,  as  could  conveniently  be  interwoven  in  such 
a report  ; and  since  if  we  had  confined  ourselves  to  a mere  geolog- 
ical description  of  the  country,  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  pre- 
sent these  details,  I have  found  it  more  practicable  to  present  our 
observations  in  the  form  of -a  journal,  which  gives  the  various  par- 
ticulars of  interest  to  those  who  may  be  desirous  of  visiting  those 
regions.  Thus  we  shall  be  able  to  give  a more  just  picture  of 
back-woods  life,  and  prepare  the  reader  for  the  journeys  which  he 


c 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


may  be  called  upon  to  make,  should  his  business  ever  call  him  upon 
the  public  lands. 

I would  also  remark,  that  the  cold  weather  commenced  the  past 
autumn  much  earlier  than  usual,  so  that  the  reader  must  not  be 
alarmed  by  the  fact  that  we  were  obliged  to  break  our  way  through 
ice,  and  travel  amid  snow  storms  in  the  month  of  October. 

After  making  our  surveys  of  the  other  portions  of  the  state  as- 
signed me,  our  steps  were  bent  towards  the  public  lands,  and  we 
were  then  ready  for  our  excursions  up  the  Penobscot  and  Aroos- 
took waters. 

On  the  ninth  of  September,  Mr.  Larrabee  and  myself  returned  to 
Bangor,  where  we  found  Mr.  Hodge,  the  assistant  for  Massachusetts, 
awaiting  our  arrival,  after  having  made  his  excursions  through  the 
public  lands  to  Canada. 

We  there  made  preparation  for  a journey  to  Mount  Ktaadn  by 
the  route  of  the  west  branch  of  the  Penobscot  river,  through  Milli- 
nocket  and  Pamidumcook  lakes  to  the  base  of  the  mountain. 

The  objects  of  this  survey  were  to  make  a sectional  view  of  the 
banks  of  the  Penobscot,  and  to  measure  the  altitude  of  Mount 
Ktaadn,  which,  as  its  aboriginal  name  signifies,  is  the  highest  moun- 
tain in  the  state. 

Having,  on  a previous  occasion,  ordered  a light  batteau  to  be  built 
for  our  use,  we  were  enabled  to  make  every  preparation  required  for 
the  excursion,  in  a short  space  of  time,  and  set  out  on  the  thirteenth 
of  September. 

On  reaching  Oldtown,  we  found  that  the  batteau  would  not  carry 
our  whole  party  with  the  necessary  supplies  of  provisions,  and,  on 
that  account,  I purchased  a birch  canoe,  and  hired  an  excellent  In- 
dian, (Peol  Michael,)  to  take  one  of  the  assistants  and  a part  of  our 
baggage. 

The  provisions  required  for  an  excursion  of  ten  days,  consisting 
of  hard  bread  and  pork,  was  put  into  the  boats,  and  we  set  out  on 
our  route  up  the  Penobscot. 

Samuel  Bolton  and  Thomas  Fobes  of  Oldtown,  were  employed 
to  navigate  the  boat,  which  arduous  duty  they  performed  in  an  able 
and  satisfactory  manner. 

Those  who  have  never  been  on  such  a journey,  would  be  surprised 


1S3S. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


7 


at  the  dexterity  of  the  Penobscot  boatmen,  as  they  drive  their  frail 
batteaux  through  the  rapids  and  among  dangerous  rocks.  The 
slightest  failure  on  their  part  on  passing  the  numerous  water-falls, 
would  place  the  lives  of  those  on  board  in  imminent  peril,  and  the 
traveller  has  good  reason  to  be  thankful,  if.  the  boat  by  their  care  is 
saved  from  being  overturned,  or  sunk  in  the  river. 

When  the  waters  rush  swiftly  down  a rapid  slope  of  smooth  and 
rounded  rocks,  forming  what  are  called  gravel  beds,  the  most  strenu- 
ous exertions  of  the  boatmen  are  required  to  stem  the  current,  and, 
not  unfrequently,  their  setting  poles  are  caught  between  the  rocks,  so 
as  to  be  jerked  from  their  grasp. 

Batteaux  are  navigated  up  stream  by  means  of  slender  poles  of 
spruce,  about  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  in  length,  armed  with  an  iron 
point,  confined  by  a ferule,  or  iron  band,  around  its  extremity. 

One  boatman  stands  in  the  bow,  and  braces  his  foot  against  the 
stem,  as  he  labors.  The  other  stands  in  the  stern,  and  they  both 
pole  on  the  same  side,  as  they  proceed  up  the  margin  of  the  stream. 
Descending  the  river,  they  make  use  of  paddles. 

Great  experience  is  required  for  the  safe  navigation  of  the  Penob- 
scot, and  even  with  such  practical  knowledge,  many  persons  loose 
their  lives  in  these  waters. 

Canoes  of  birch  bark,  when  navigated  by  Indians,  are  compara- 
tively safe  and  easy  means  of  conveyance,  but  the  passenger  must 
also  understand  how  to  balance  himself  in  the  canoe,  and  must  keep 
himself  perfectly  cool,  amid  dangers,  trusting  to  the  skill  of  his  abo- 
riginal navigator,  for  safe  deliverance. 

Canoes,  will  not,  however,  bear  a heavy  burthen,  and  the  utmost 
care  is  requisite  to  prevent  their  being  split  asunder  on  the  rocks. 
They  are  also  liable  to  be  worn  out  in  a long  cruise.  On  this  ac- 
count, it  is  always  desirable  to  have  both  a batteaux,  and  a canoe,  so 
that  if  one  is  destroyed,  the  other  may  be  put  in  requisition. 

Since  we  were  required  to  collect  heavy  loads  of  specimens,  a 
boat  was  absolutely  necessary,  and  was  found  very  serviceable. 

A batteau,  for  such  an  excursion,  should  not  weigh  more  than  two 
hundred  and  eighty  pounds,  and  ought  to  be  pitched  and  painted,  so 
as  to  prevent  the  absorption  of  water  ; for  it  would  be  impossible  to 


s 


GEOLOGY  OB"  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


transport  a heavy  boat  over  the  numerous  and  difficult  carrying  places 
that  we  are  obliged  to  pass. 

The  river  was  low,  and  although  this  circumstance  rendered  navi- 
gation difficult,  still  it  was  favorable  for  our  purpose,  since  we  desir- 
ed an  opportunity  of  inspecting  the  strata,  laid  bare  by  the  river. 

On  asking  the  Indians  if  we  should  meet  with  many  rocks,  they 
replied,  “ Ah  ! too  many  !”  and  with  this  assurance  we  set  forth 
duly  equipped  with  hammers,  crowbars,  chisels,  camping  apparatus, 
and  all  the  surveying  instruments  required  in  our  work. 

13th  Sept.  Following  our  course  up  the  river  we  stopped  at 
Sunkhaze  for  the  night,  having  remarked  on  our  route  that  the  rocks 
along  each  side  of  the  stream  were  uniformly  argillaceous  slate,  of  a 
compact  kind,  charged  with  sileceous  matter,  and  intersected  by 
numerous  veins  of  quartz.  The  strata  run  parallel  with  the  river’s 
course  and  dip  to  the  S.  E.  80°. 

Few  objects  of  interest  present  themselves  in  the  geology  of  this 
day’s  route.  The  rivers’  banks  are  low  and  are  formed  of  round 
pebbles  of  sileceous  slate  and  granite  boulders.  Barometer  stands  at 
this  place  9 P.  M.  at  29.870  T = 52°. 

On  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  Piscataquis,  a river  so  named  from 
the  Indian  word  for  (a  branch,)  we  stopped  for  the  night  at  the  house 
of  Mr.  William  C.  Hammat,  a gentleman  who  has  cleared  for  himself 
a tract  of  land  at  this  place,  and  has  prepared  a very  good  farm,  having 
a handsome  dwelling  and  farm-houses.  Having  been  entertained  hos- 
pitably by  this  gentleman,  we  left  on  the  following  morning  for  our 
cruise  to  Ktaadn,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  Hammat  and  Simmons, 
who  volunteered  to  join  our  party. 

At  Lincoln  the  land  has  been  cleared  of  forest  trees,  and  the  soil 
is  good.  Above  this  town  the  growth  is  mostly  small  hard  wood, 
such  as  white  maple,  beech,  and  birch  trees.  The  only  rocks  in 
place  along  the  river  are  argillaceous  slate.  There  are  also  deep 
diluvial  deposits,  forming  rounded  hills  at  Matamiscontis,  on  the 
western  side  of  the  river. 

At  night,  on  the  13th  of  September,  encamped  at  the  Na-ma-ka- 
nock  island,  amid  a dense  grove  of  maple,  birch,  and  hemlock  trees, 
some  of  the  trunks  of  which  served  us  for  fuel,  while  the  hemlock 
boughs  formed  a very  comfortable  bed.  Here  we  prepared  our 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


9 


meal,  consisting  of  fried  fat  pork  and  biscuit,  which  are  the  usual  arti- 
cles of  food  required  while  travelling  in  the  forests,  and  they  are  rel- 
ished by  the  traveller  as  the  greatest  delicacies,  for  labor  gives  a 
keenness  to  the  appetite,  making  even  coarse  fare  agreeable. 

The  Penobscot  boatmen  are  well  skilled  in  the  art  of  camping  in 
a comfortable  manner,  and  soon  prepare  their  fire  for  the  night,  make 
a bed  of  boughs,  and  pitch  the  tent  in  such  a manner  as  to  afford  a 
complete  shelter.  Having  partaken  of  our  meal  we  reposed  upon 
the  boughs  spread  upon  the  earth,  our  feet  being  turned  toward  the 
fire. 

This  being  our  first  encampment  for  the  season,  the  novelty  of  the 
scene  prevented  sleep  ; the  night  was  very  pleasant,  and  the  broad 
moon  slowly  descending  in  the  west  added  her  effulgence  to  beautify 
the  scene,  her  image  being  reflected  by  the  rippling  waters,  while 
various  contrasts  of  light  and  shade  from  the  dense  foliage,  and  the 
pale  moonbeam  and  glaring  red  camp  fire  gave  an  effect  full  of  beau- 
ty, and  worthy  the  attention  of  an  artist. 

Amid  scenes  of  calm  delight  we  are  however  subject  to  contrasts 
of  a less  agreeable  kind,  and  here  our  Indian  while  cutting  wood  suf- 
fered a severe  accident ; his  hatchet  accidentally  slipping,  was  driven 
deeply  into  his  leg  between  the  two  bones  so  as  to  expose  the  an- 
terior tibial  artery.  I was  then  called  upon  in  my  surgical  capacity, 
and  having  my  instruments  with  me,  dressed  his  wound  in  the 
usual  manner,  and  early  the  next  morning  we  took  him  to  Matanaw- 
cook  island,  where  he  made  arrangements  with  another  Indian,  Louis 
Neptune,  to  supply  his  place  while  he  was  recovering  from  his  wound. 
This  arrangement  having  been  made  we  continued  our  journey. 

Two  miles  below  Natham’s  island  the  slate  ledges  again  appear, 
but  are  quite  uninteresting.  The  strata  dip  to  the  S.  E. 

Snow’s  island,  seven  miles  below  Maitawamkeag  point,  is  covered 
with  a heavy  growth  of  rock  maple  and  hemlock  trees,  and  has  a very 
picturesque  appearance. 

Two  miles  below  Five  Islands  Falls,  there  is  found  a bed  of  roof 
slate,  but  not  of  good  quality. 

16th  Sept.  Arrived  at  Mattawamkeag  point,  where  we  left  a 
part  of  our  load,  and  then  continued  our  course. 

2 


10 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


17th  Sept.  Leaving  the  Point  we  ran  up  to  Nickatow,  or  as  its 
Indian  name  signifies  (the  Forks,)  of  the  east  and  west  branch  of  the 
Penobscot.  Here  we  obtained  a view  of  Mount  Ktaadn,  and  took 
some  observations.  Its  highest  peak  bears  N.  28°  30'  W.,  and  its 
angle  of  elevation  is  1°  20'.  These  measurements  being  taken  near 
the  deserted  house  at  the  Point  where  we  passed  the  night. 

After  breakfast  the  next  morning  we  ascended  the  west  branch  of 
the  river,  and  came  to  rapids  about  one  mile  above  Nickatow.  Two 
miles  below  the  Little  Schoodic  river,  slate  suitable  for  roofs  is 
found,  but  it  is  not  so  good  as  that  found  at  Brownville.  The  water 
now  becomes  extremely  rapid,  rushing  through  heaps  of  large  round- 
ed masses  of  granite.  Boulders  of  greenstone  trap  abound  along  the 
rivers’  course. 

Five  miles  above  the  Little  Schoodic  we  came  to  Shad  pond, 
which  is  but  an  expansion  of  the  river. 

We  then  reached  Millinocket  stream,  which  is  sluggish  for  the 
principal  part  of  its  course,  but  becomes  very  rapid  and  rocky  near 
the  lake. 

Having  ascended  this  stream  about  three  miles  we  encamped  for 
the  night  amid  a beautiful  grove  of  ash,  maple  and  birch  trees.  This 
township  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  timber  districts  upon  the  river, 
and  large  numbers  of  pine  trees  are  obtained  during  the  winter  sea- 
son. 

When  we  had  passed  through  several  difficult  and  rocky  rapids, 
we  entered  Millinocket  Lake,  a most  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  con- 
taining a great  number  of  small  islands,  from  which  circumstance  it 
takes  its  name. 

The  islands  are  composed  of  the  detritus  of  granite  rocks,  and 
the  shores  of  the  lake  are  composed  entirely  of  similar  materials. 

Mount  Ktaadn  is  seen  rearing  itself  majestically  on  the  N.  N.  W., 
and  appears  as  if  on  the  margin  of  the  lake,  although  it  is  more  than 
fifteen  miles  distant. 

I made  several  sketches  of  the  mountain  from  different  points  of 
view,  and  took  the  exact  bearings  and  angles  of  elevation  of  the  sev- 
eral peaks. 

The  eastern  extreme  of  its  summit  bears  N.  20°  W.  The  wes- 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


11 


tern  extreme  N.  30°  W. — central  peak  N.  20°  W.  Angle  of 
elevation  from  the  lake,  3°  25' 

Several  nearly  perpendicular  bands  of  the  rock  left  bare  by  eboul- 
ments  or  slides  are  conspicuously  seen,  and  their  steepness  threat- 
ens us  with  great  difficulties  in  making  our  ascent  to  the  summit  of 
the  mountain.  Forest  trees  appear  to  be  extremely  diminutive  and 
disappear  below  the  top  of  the  slides.  While  I was  engaged  in 
noting  the  bearings  of  this  mountain,  the  clouds  suddenly  darted 
down  upon  its  summit  and  concealed  it  from  view  ; while  we  could 
observe  that  a violent  snow  squall  was  paying  homage  to  Po- 
mola,  the  demon  of  the  mountain.  Presently,  the  storm  ceased,  and 
the  clouds  having  thus  paid  their  tribute,  passed  on  and  left  the  moun- 
tain white  with  snow.  This  took  place  on  the  twentieth  of  Sep- 
tember. 

A remarkable  saddle  shaped  mountain,  composed  of  two  peaks, 
and  called  the  Travellers,  presents  itself.  The  western  peak  bear- 
ing N.  8°  W.,  and  the  eastern  N.  6°  W.  This  mountain  is  seen 
from  many  different  points  of  view,  and  hence  its  name.  It  is  not 
designated  upon  the  state  maps. 

Crossing  the  lake,  we  reached  the  carrying  place  at  the  head  of  a 
long  creek,  where  we  pitched  our  camp  amid  a few  poplar  trees, 
which  are  of  second  growth,  or  have  sprung  up  since  the  forests 
were  burnt.  The  want  of  good  fuel  and  of  boughs  for  a bed  was 
severely  felt,  since  we  were  obliged  to  repose  on  naked  rocks,  and 
the  green  poplar  trees  appeared  to  give  more  smoke  than  fire.  The 
night  w7as  cold,  and  the  wind  violent,  so  that  sleep  was  out  of  the 
question. 

Early  in  the  morning,  we  prepared  to  carry  our  boats  over  to  Am- 
bejijis  Lake,  and  the  labor  was  found  very  difficult,  since  the  water 
was  low,  and  we  had  to  traverse  a long  tract  of  boggy  land,  before 
reaching  the  other  lake.  This  bog  is  underlaid  by  marl,  derived 
from  myriads  of  fresh  water  shells,  such  as  the  ciclas,  planorbis, 
unio,  and  anadonta,  and  where  the  ice  had  torn  up  the  peat,  the  marl 
was  exposed  to  view.  Tracks  of  Moose  and  Carriboo  abound  in  this 
mud,  since  they  frequent  the  shallow  parts  of  the  lake,  to  feed  upon 
the  lily  pads,  or  the  leaves  of  the  Nuphar  lutea,  wrhich  here  abound, 
A noble  looking  carriboo  suddenly  started  from  the  woods,  and  trot- 


12 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


ted  quietly  along  the  shores  of  the  lake,  quite  near  to  us,  but  we 
were  not  prepared  to  take  him,  and  he  presently  darted  into  the  for- 
est and  disappeared. 

Snow  fell  abundantly  upon  Ktaadn  last  night,  and  clouds  are  now 
seen  driving  swiftly  over  its  summit. 

On  reaching  Ambejijis  Lake,  which  was  effected  before  night,  we 
stopped  a while  to  rest,  at  a bar  of  granite-gravel,  which  separates  it 
from  Pamiduncook  or  Bar  Lake,  and  from  his  spot  I took  a view  of 
Joe  Merry  Mountain,  which  appears  rising  to  a considerable  eleva- 
tion on  the  south-west.  This  mountain  is  not  indicated  upon  the 
state  map,  nor  upon  that  of  the  public  lands.  It  is  composed  of 
granite,  and  is  a commanding  point  of  view  for  examining  the  sur- 
rounding country,  so  that  it  is  frequented  by  explorers  for  timber. 
The  following  wood  cut  will  give  a good  idea  of  its  appearance  from 
Ambejijis  Lake. 


View  of  Joe  Merry  Mountain  from  Ambejijis  Lake. 


The  following  bearings  were  taken.  Western  extreme  of  sum- 
mit, S.  65°  W.  Eastern  extreme,  S.  62°  W.  Angle  of  eleva- 
tion of  summit  above  lake,  2°. 

Two  rocky  peaks  appear  to  the  south  of  this  mountain,  which 
bear  S.  55°  W.,  and  S.  49°  W.  Crossing  over  the  bar,  we  took 
another  view  of  Mount  Ktaadn,  the  central  peak  of  which  bears 


183S. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


13 


north,  30°  W.,  and  appears  to  be  the  highest  point.  Angle  of  el- 
evation, 3°  25'. 

Outop  Mountain  is  seen  to  the  N.  22°.  W.,  and  appears  in  form 
exactly  like  a volcanic  cone,  but  it  is  probably  composed  of  granite, 
since  blocks  of  that  stone  may  be  discovered  on  its  sides  by  the 
means  of  the  telescope.  Its  angle  of  elevation  from  the  lake  is 
1°  15'. 

Proceeding  up  the  lake,  we  reached  the  river,  where  there  are 
very  troublesome  rapids  and  falls,  over  which  we  passed,  and  camp- 
ed upon  the  western  bank,  at  Katepskonegan  Lake.  This  name 
signifyingcarrying  place,  since  it  is  necessary  to  carry  the  canoe  bye. 

The  forest  trees  on  its  shores  are  chiefly  hard  wood,  such  as  rock 
maple,  yellow  birch,  ash,  &c.  Pines,  hemlocks  and  fir  trees  also 
abound,  but  the  pine  timber  trees  are  not  on  the  immediate  shores 
of  the  lake. 

Our  provisions  having  been  reduced,  owing  to  the  circumstance 
that  our  journey  proved  much  longer  than  we  had  anticipated,  I thought 
it  necessary  to  put  the  whole  party  on  a regular  allowance,  which  was 
mutually  agreed  to.  Our  Indian,  Neptune,  succeeded  in  catching 
half  a dozen  musquash,  which  we  were  glad  to  share  with  him,  and 
a few  trout  which  were  also  taken,  and  served  to  save  a portion  of 
our  more  substantial  food.  Finding  that  our  provisions  would  not 
last  many  days,  and  that  there  was  no  probability  of  obtaining  any 
until  we  returned  to  Nicatow,  we  hastened  our  journey. 

At  the  head  of  Katepskonegan  lake  we  have  another  magnificent 
view  of  Ktaadn,  the  highest  peak  of  which  bears  N.  22°  E.,  and  the 
angle  of  elevation  is  5°  20'.  Outop  bears  N.  18°  W.,  angle  of 
elevation  2°. 

Leaving  our  boats  we  walked  to  Pock-wock-amus  falls,  where  the 
river  rushes  over  a ledge  of  granite,  numerous  huge  blocks  of  which 
obstruct  the  course  of  the  water. 

Large  trout  are  caught  abundantly  at  this  place,  and  we  stopped 
a short  time  to  obtain  a supply.  They  are  readily  taken  with  a 
common  fishing  hook  and  fine,  baited  with  a piece  of  pork,  or  even 
with  a slip  of  white  paper,  which  is  to  be  trailed  over  the  surface  of 
the  water.  Some  of  the  trout  thus  taken  would  weigh  from  three 
and  a half  to  four  pounds. 


14 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


When  our  boats  came  up  we  took  our  places  and  went  up  to  a 
little  island  just  above  the  outlet  of  muddy  lake,  where  we  camped 
for  the  night.  From  this  point  the  following  view  was  taken  and 
will  serve  to  give  a correct  idea  of  the  aspect  of  the  mountain. 


View  of  Mt.  Ktaadn,  bearing-  N 37°  E.  from  west  branch  of  Penobscot. 


The  highest  peak  bears  N.  27°  E.  ; western  slide  N.  13°  E.  ; 
second  slide  from  west  N.  17°  E.  ; eastern  extremity  N.  37°  E.  ; 
western  extremity  N.  8°  E.  angle  of  elevation  of  highest  peak 
7°  15' ; head  of  second  slide  6°  50' ; lower  western  peak  5°  10'. 

Outop  Mountain,  bears  N.  17°  W. 

Barometer  stands  at  29.470  T = 66°  F. 

On  the  22d  of  September  we  prepared  ourselves  for  ascending 
the  mountain,  taking  with  us  our  tent,  a few  cooking  utensils,  and 
all  the  food  remaining  excepting  a small  quantity  of  Indian  corn 
meal,  which  we  concealed  on  the  island  for  use  on  our  return. 

Our  party  all  clothed  in  red  flannel  shirts,  and  loaded  with  our 
various  equipments  made  a singular  appearance  as  we  landed  on  the 
opposite  shore  and  filed  into  the  woods.  Our  party  consisted  now” 
of  ten  persons,  and  each  one  of  us  took  upon  his  shoulders  as  much 
as  he  was  able  to  carry,  the  surveying  instruments,  knapsack  and 
hammer  falling  to  my  lot. 

Our  course  was  directed  towards  the  second  western  side,  by 
which  we  intended  to  make  an  ascension  of  the  mountain.  Plunging 


1838. 


HOUSE — No.  70. 


15 


into  a dense  foliage  of  undergrowth  that  has  sprung  up  since  the  forests 
were  burned,  we  travelled  some  distance  and  then  turned  to  the  left, 
in  order  to  take  advantage  of  a high  ridge  of  land  less  covered  with 
trees.  At  10J  A.  M.,  the  barometer  stood  upon  the  ridge  a 
29.340  inches  T = 59°. 

Blue-berries  of  large  size  abound  and  press  the  smaller  bushes  to 
the  earth.  Bunch-berries  or  the  fruit  of  the  Cornus  canadensis 
abound.  Wild  red  cherries  also  occur  in  loaded  panicles  and  the 
trees  have  been  broken  by  the  bears  that  have  frequented  them 
for  the  fruit. 

Beautiful  specimens  of  the  Trillium  pictum  Convallarius,  of  sev- 
eral species  ; Crategus,  &c.  ; grow  abundantly  on  the  burnt  lands. 

At  noon  we  reached  the  Aboljacknagesic  (or  open  land,)  stream, 
where  we  stopped  to  partake  of  a scanty  meal.  At  1 , P.  M,  bar- 
ometer h.  28.820  T.  = 60°. 

The  waters  of  the  Aboljacknagesic  stream  rush  over  huge  piles  of 
granite  rocks,  some  of  them  being  nearly  20  feet  square  and  standing 
in  such  positions  as  to  shew  that  they  came  to  the  sides  of  Ktaadn. 
The  temperature  of  the  water  was  found  to  be  40°  F.,  while  that 
of  the  air  was  60°. 

Water  boils  at  this  place  at  210°  F.  Continuing  our  journey  we 
travelled  through  a thick  grove  of  young  cedars  and  a swamp  filled 
with  the  Rhus  toxicodendron  or  poison  dogwood  ; crossed  the 
stream  again  where  it  falls  over  granite  rocks,  boulders  of  trap  and 
masses  of  grau-wacke  containing  marine  shells.  At  4 P.  M.  we 
reached  the  foot  of  the  slide.  Barometer  = 28.200  T.  = 59°  F. 

Ascending  the  slide,  we  measured  a base  line  on  it,  2000  feet  in 
length,  at  an  angle  of  10°  40'  above  the  horizon. 

From  the  lower  station  the  angle  of  elevation  of  the  central  peak 
is  22°  15'.  From  the  upper  station  the  angle  of  elevation  was  25°. 
Eastern  peak  from  lower  station  15°  55' — upper  station  17°. 
These  observations  calculated  will  give  the  height  of  the  mountain 
from  the  base  of  the  slide. 

Having  reached  a height  where  the  forest  trees  were  so  diminu- 
tive, that  we  could  not  camp  any  higher  up,  for  want  of  fuel  we 
pitched  our  tent.  This  place  is  about  half  way  up  the  mountain; 
from  it  we  have  an  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 
Moose  Head  Lake  appears  very  near  and  many  mountains,  rivers, 


16 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


and  lakes  may  be  descried  around.  5j  P.  M.,  barometer  27.770 
T.  = 52.  Water  boils  at  206°  F. 

Passed  a fine  night,  but  without  any  other  food  than  a small  piece 
of  clear  pork,  our  bread  having  been  exhausted  the  day  previous. 
Towards  morning,  the  sky  began  to  threaten  rain,  and  we  hastened 
to  ascend  the  mountain  before  it  should  take  place  ; — 23d,  6 A.  M. 
Barometer  = 27.420,  T.  = 44°. 

Leaving  our  camp  on  the  mountain  side,  at  7 A.  M.,  we  set  out 
for  the  summit  of  Ktaadn,  carrying  with  us  our  hammers,  knapsacks, 
and  instruments  for  measuring  its  altitude.  Travelling  steadily  up 
the  slide,  clambering  over  loose  boulders  of  granite  trap  and  grau- 
wacke,  which  are  heaped  up  in  confusion  along  its  course,  and  are 
capable  of  being  set  in  motion  by  a careless  step,  we  at  length  reached 
a place  where  it  was  dangerous  longer  to  walk  on  the  loose  rocks,  and 
crossing  over  to  the  right  hand  side,  clambered  up  among  the  dwarf- 
ish bushes  that  cling  to  the  side  of  the  mountain.  At  the  top  of  the 
slide,  the  barometer  stood  at  25.580,  T.  = 36°.  Here  all  traces  of 
arborescence  disappear,  and  only  a few  low  spicy  blueberries  and 
mountain  cranberries  are  found,  clinging  to  the  rocks.  The  ascent 
now  became  exceedingly  laborious,  owing  to  large  overhanging  rocks, 
which  were  covered  with  moss,  and,  being  wet,  were  very  slippery, 
so  that  it  was  difficult  to  mount  over  them.  Snow  and  sleet  drove 
fiercely  against  us,  and  our  clothing  being  wet,  began  to  freeze. 

Two  of  our  party  became  discouraged,  on  attaining  this  point,  and 
there  being  no  necessity  of  their  accompanying  us,  they  were  allowed 
to  return  to  the  camp.  Along  the  whole  course  of  the  slide,  we 
found  an  abundance  of  rounded  diluvial  boulders  of  grau-wacke,  and 
compact  limestone,  filled  with  impressions  of  marine  shells,  showing 
that  the  diluvial  current  once  passed  over  the  summit  of  this  lofty 
mountain. 

The  remainder  of  our  ascent  was  extremely  difficult,  and  required 
no  small  perseverance.  Our  Indian  guide,  Louis,  placed  stones 
along  the  path,  in  order  that  we  might  more  readily  find  the  way 
down  the  mountain,  and  the  wisdom  of  this  precaution  was  fully 
manifest  in  the  sequel. 

At  10  A.  M.,  we  reached  the  table  land,  which  forms  the  mountains’ 
top,  and  ascends  gradually  to  the  central  peak.  Here  the  wind  driv- 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


17 


ing  snow  and  hail,  rendered  it  almost  impossible  to  proceed,  but  we 
at  length  reached  the  central  peak.  At  11  A.  M.,  I placed  my  ba- 
rometer beside  the  shelter  of  a high  rock,  and  observed  the  altitude 
of  the  mercurial  column  to  be  24.820  T.  = 30°  F. 

On  comparing  the  height  of  the  mercurial  column  in  our  barome- 
ters, at  the  various  stations  where  they  were  placed,  and  making  due 
corrections  for  difference  of  temperature  in  the  instruments,  and  in 
the  atmospheric  layers,  and  for  the  curvature  of  the  earth,  in  the  lat- 
itude given,  we  are  enabled  to  calculate  from  those  data,  the  exact 
height  of  Mount  Ktaadn. 

By  calculating  separately,  the  height  of  all  the  separate  stations,  and 
then  adding  them  together,  it  is  found  that  the  difference,  or  sum  of 
error,  between  the  heights  obtained  by  that  operation,  and  by  the  di- 
rect calculation  from  the  summit  of  the  mountain  to  the  sea  level,  is 
but  8 feet,  so  that  the  results  which  we  have  obtained,  are  undoubt- 
edly correct.  Thus  we  have  ascertained  that  the  true  altitude  of 
Mount  Ktaadn  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  5,300  feet,  or  a little 
more  than  one  mile  perpendicular  elevation.  It  is  then  evidently, 
the  highest  point  in  the  State  of  Maine,  and  is  the  most  abrupt  gran- 
ite mountain  in  New  England. 

When  this  operation  was  completed,  finding  that  it  was  impossible 
to  make  many  geological  researches,  amid  such  a furious  north-east 
snow  storm,  we  set  out  on  our  return  from  this  region  of  clouds  and 
snow.  Louis  declared  that  Pomola  was  angry  with  us  for  presuming 
to  measure  the  height  of  the  mountain,  and  revenged  himself  upon 
us  by  this  storm. 

Mount  Ktaadn,  is  composed  entirely  of  granite  rocks,  of  a good 
texture,  containing  black  mica  and  white  felspar,  with  a little  quartz. 
A few  dry  dwarfish  plants,  such  as  the  Saxifraga  a Carex,  and  Iceland 
moss,  grow  upon  the  rocks. 

Descending,  we  had  nearly  gone  astray,  and  might  have  descended 
the  wrong  slide,  had  it  not  been  for  the  precautions  of  Louis,  who 
had  marked  our  path  back  to  the  slide  by  which  we  had  ascended. 
Clouds  and  darkness  h'ung  upon  the  mountain’s  brow,  and  the 
cold  blast  almost  deprived  us  of  breath.  Encrusted  with  snow, 
we  effected  our  descent,  sliding  carefully  upon  the  surface  of  the 
rocks.  Our  boatmen,  on  reaching  the  head  of  the  slide,  tumbled 
3 


18 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


down  some  large  blocks  of  granite,  that  descended  with  a terrible 
fracas,  dashing  the  rocks  into  fragments,  as  they  bounded  along. 
A ravine  lies  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the  slide,  and  is  of  immense 
depth,  and  overhung  by  projecting  rocks. 

On  returning  to  our  camp,  we  collected  various  specimens  of  cu- 
rious rocks  in  the  slide,  some  of  which,  we  brought  home,  while  a large 
heap  of  those  we  were  unable  to  carry,  were  left  at  our  camp. 

Finding  that  our  provisions  were  entirely  exhausted,  Mr.  Larrabee 
and  two  of  our  men,  were  determined  to  return  to  the  river  that  night, 
while  the  remainder  of  our  party  encamped  upon  the  mountain  side, 
and  passed  a sleepless  night,  without  food,  and  amid  a driving  snow 
storm.  Owing  to  the  small  size  of  the  trees,  it  was  exceedingly  dif- 
ficult to  keep  our  fire  burning,  and  the  night  was  very  cold  and  un- 
comfortable. 

Early  the  next  morning,  we  struck  our  tent,  and  descended  the 
mountain,  but  so  enfeebled  had  we  become  by  hunger,  privations, 
and  fatigue,  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could  carry  our  several 
burthens.  Every  now  and  then,  our  knees  would  give  way  beneath 
us,  and  cause  us  to  fall  upon  the  ground. 

When  we  had  reached  the  base  of  the  mountain,  we  discovered 
some  wild  choke  cherries,  hanging  in  bunches  from  the  trees,  which 
the  bears  had  often  climbed  and  broken  for  the  fruit.  Felling  one  of 
these  cherry  trees,  we  ate  the  astringent  fruit  and  were,  in  some 
measure  resuscitated  in  strength,  so  as  to  march  with  renewed 
vigor.  A bed  of  blueberries  also  presented  itself,  and  we  stopped 
to  dine  upon  them. 

Following  the  course  of  the  Aboljocknagesic  stream,  we  came  to 
a cascade,  where  the  river  falls  over  a large  sheet  of  granite.  At 
the  mouth  of  this  river,  we  met  Larrabee  and  Simonds,  who 
had  cooked  all  the  Indian  meal  that  was  left  at  our  old  camp  on  the 
island,  and  brought  the  cakes  for  our  relief.  After  partaking  of  this 
scanty,  but  very  welcome  meal,  we  took  the  boats,  and  ran  down  to 
the  island,  intending  to  move  homeward  as  rapidly  as  possible,  not 
having  any  more  food,  and  being  several  days’  journey  from  any  house, 
or  camp. 

Fortunately,  we  descried  a canoe,  in  which  two  young  men  were 
ascending  the  river  on  an  exploring  party,  and  we  quickly  gave  chase 


183S. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


19 


and  induced  them  to  sell  us  20  biscuits,  which,  being  two  to  a man, 
on  short  allowance,  we  hoped  to  be  able  to  reach  Nickatow. 

September  25th,  Monday,  7 A.  M.,  at  the  island, 

Barometer  = 29.400,  T = 42°. 

Descending  the  river,  we  passed  through  Katepskonegan  lake, 
and  camped  at  the  foot  of  Pamiduncook. 

On  the  26th,  we  met  with  Col.  Webster,  of  Orono,  who  was 
going  to  Nah-me-can-te  stream,  to  clear  out  certain  rocks  that  inter- 
rupted lumbering  operations.  He  kindly  supplied  us  with  some 
biscuits,  and  we  continued  our  route. 

Passed  through  Katachicw^ac  lake,  where  there  are  three  rapids, 
then  came  to  Quakis,  where  we  obtained  a supply  of  trout,  which 
answered  for  food,  until  we  reached  Nickatow,  where  there  is  a 
house,  at  which  we  stopped,  and  obtained  supplies.  All  the  rocks 
at  Quakis  lake,  are  granite,  and  the  water  falls  over  huge  boulders 
of  that  rock.  The  forest  trees  are  a mixed  growth  of  hard  and  soft 
wood,  maple,  birch,  beech,  hemlock,  &c.  This  lake  is  a beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  now  surrounded  by  autumnal  foliage. 

On  the  27th,  we  arrived  at  Mattawamkeag  point,  and  there  I left 
the  boats,  in  order  to  go  down  to  Bangor,  for  supplies  for  an  excur- 
sion up  to  the  Aroostook  river. 

On  the  4th  of  October,  we  left  Mattawamkeag  point,  having  with 
us  a batteau  and  a canoe,  provided  with  a competent  supply  of  bread, 
rice,  and  pork,  for  a month’s  cruise. 

Our  route  lay  up  the  east  branch  of  the  Penobscot,  to  the  Seboois 
river,  from  whence  one  of  our  boats  was  sent  to  examine  the  grand 
falls  on  the  east  branch,  and  the  Seboois  was  then  followed  to  its 
sources. 

The  weather  had  become  so  cold,  that  we  were  no  longer  troubled 
by  venomous  insects,  and  only  suffered  from  cold  feet  and  hands, 
when  confined  to  the  boats. 

On  entering  the  east  branch  we  proceeded  one  mile,  and  then  en- 
camped amid  a beautiful  grove  of  maple  trees.  The  country  thus 
far  is  composed  of  argillaceous  slate  rocks,  and  diluvial  embank- 
ments, called  Horsebacks.  The  river’s  banks  are  low,  and  the  wa- 
ter is  not  rapid.  Several  small  and  picturesque  islands,  covered  with 
lofty  maple  trees,  lie  in  the  midst  of  the  stream. 


20 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


Ledge-falls,,  two  miles  up  this  branch  of  the  river,  shows  the  slate 
rocks  running  N.  E.,  S.  W.,  and  dipping.70°  N.  W.  Grey  lime- 
stone occurs  imbedded  in  this  rock,  and  is  valuable  for  agricultural 
use. 

The  river  above  the  falls  is  broad  and  tranquil,  and  its  banks  are 
thickly  crowded  with  maple,  hemlock  and  birch  trees.  A short  dis- 
tance above  the  falls  we  again  found  limestone  rocks,  and  the  strata 
dip  S.  E.  80°. 

The  river’s  banks  become  more  elevated  as  we  proceed,  and  tall 
pine  trees  abound  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  stream.  As  we  con- 
tinue the  water  becomes  more  rapid,  and  there  are  troublesome  gravel- 
beds.  Numerous  islets  covered  with  grass  occur  in  the  river. 
Seven  miles  above  Nickatow  we  found  Grau-wacke  in  strata  with 
the  slate,  and  the  latter  rock  is  charged  with  pyrites. 

One  hundred  yards  from  the  left  hand  bank  of  the  river,  there  is 
a long  ridge  of  table  land  elevated  200  feet  above  the  stream,  and 
running  north  and  south,  for  the  distance  of  three  miles.  This  high 
embankment  was  formerly  washed  by  the  river,  as  may  be  evidently 
seen  on  inspecting  its  surface.  The  soil  is  diluvial,  and  the  direc- 
tion of  the  embankment  is  the  same  as  we  have  observed  in  exam- 
ining most  of  the  horseback  ridges  of  the  state. 

From  the  summit  of  this  ridge,  we  have  a very  fine  panoramic 
view  of  Mt.  Ktaadn  and  its  adjacent  highlands,  while  the  Penobscot 
waters  are  seen  winding  their  way  through  the  country  below.  This 
tract  of  land  is  known  under  the  name  of  the  Brown  township,  and 
it  was  burnt  over  in  1825.  Numerous  charred  stumps  of  large  size 
show,  that  it  was  once  heavily  clothed  with  pine  timber. 

Continuing  our  route,  the  banks  of  the  river  became  more  lofty, 
rising  from  20  to  100  feet  directly  from  the  stream,  and  the  water 
is  here  rapid  and  rushes  amid  numerous  large  blocks  of  granite  and 
slate  rocks. 

Arrived  at  grindstone  and  falls,  where  the  river  pitches  over  ledges 
of  Argillaceous  slate,  and  among  huge  blocks  of  granite.  The  slate 
strata  run  N.  33°  E.,  and  dip  80°  S.  E.  by  E.,  the  rock  being 
roofing  slate  of  a bluish  green  color,  and  alternating  with  beds  of 
Grau-wacke  and  limestone. 

About  half  way  up  the  falls,  the  dip  of  the  strata  becomes  suddenly 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


21 


reversed,  and  they  incline  to  the  N.  W.  60°.  It  is  remarkable,  that 
the  Grau-wacke  beds  do  not  coincide  with  the  fissile  layers  of  slate, 
but  dip  in  an  opposite  direction.  Grindstone  falls  receive  their  name 
from  the  circumstance  that  the  current  of  water  causes  the  rounded 
rocks  to  wear  deep  u pot-holes”  in  the  slate  which  they  effect  by 
continual  whirling  and  attrition  of  their  surfaces,  aided  by  the  gravel 
that  is  continually  washed  into  the  cavities. 

It  is  evident  that  the  river  has  forced  its  own  way  through  this 
ledge,  for  the  broken  and  worn  rocks,  rising  from  50  to  70  feet  on 
each  side  bear  marks  of  its  violence. 

While  we  were  engaged  in  exploring  the  rocks,  our  men  tried  to 
shove  the  boat  up  the  falls,  but  the  violence  of  the  current  prevent- 
ed their  effecting  their  object,  the  boat  being  instantly  filled  and  sunk 
in  the  attempt ; while  all  our  baggage  and  provisions  that  remained 
on  board  were  swept  off  and  carried  down  the  stream.  A scene  of 
unwonted  activity  now  ensued,  in  our  ^endeavors  to  save  our  articles 
as  they  were  rapidly  borne  down  the  foaming  waters.  The  boat 
fortunately,  was  not  much  injured,  and  we  succeeded  in  hauling  it 
upon  a rock,  and  bailed  out  the  water,  after  which  we  gave  chase  to 
our  lost  articles,  and  succeeded  in  saving  those  that  were  most  es- 
sential to  our  safety.  The  bread-barrel,  although  scuttled,  was  but 
half  full  of  bread,  and  floated  down  stream,  with  its  opening  upper- 
most, so  that  but  little  of  it  was  injured.  Our  bucket  of  rice  burst 
open,  and  was  lost.  The  tea-kettle  and  other  cooking  apparatus  sank 
in  the  river,  and  were  fished  up  by  a hook  and  line.  The  tent  was 
found  about  a mile  down  the  river,  stretched  across  a rock.  The 
maps  and  charts  were  all  soaked  with  water,  so  that  it  required  almost 
as  much  labor  and  patience  to  unrol  them,  as  the  papyry  of  Hercu- 
laneum. Our  spare  boots  and  shoes  were  irrecoverably  lost.  Hav- 
ing rescued  the  most  important  articles  from  the  water,  we  carried 
by  the  falls,  camped  and  dried  our  papers  and  provisions,  being 
thankful  that  no  worse  an  accident  had  befallen  us.  Fortunately  we 
had  taken  the  precaution  to  remove  our  surveying  instruments  and 
the  blankets  from  the  boat,  before  the  falls  were  attempted. 

Having  kindled  a camp  fire  and  dried  ourselves,  a storm  of  rain 
began  to  pour  around  us,  but  our  great  fire  was  not  easily  damped, 
and  we  passed  a comfortable  night  beneath  the  shelter  of  a water- 
proof tent. 


22 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


October  6th.  This  morning  vve  corked  and  pitched  our  boat, 
repairing  the  damage  it  had  sustained  in  the  falls,  and  at  10  o’clock, 
set  out  on  our  journey.  The  river  is  now  tranquil,  and  its  banks 
are  60  feet  high  on  the  left  and  5 or  6 feet  on  the  right.  Presently 
we  came  to  Crowfoot  falls,  which  are  rapids  produced  by  nu- 
merous blocks  of  granite. 

Just  below  Mud  Brook,  a small  stream  that  empties  into  the 
east  branch,  we  descried  a large  moose  crossing  the  river,  and  gave 
chase  for  him.  A bullet  was  quickly  rammed  down  upon  a small 
charge  intended  for  patridges,  and  on  firing  at  the  moose,  the  lead 
being  too  heavy  for  the  charge  of  powder  failed  to  produce  any 
effect,  and  so  we  were  disappointed  in  our  game. 

Near  this  place  there  are  several  small  gravelly  islands  covered 
with  a profusion  of  deep  purple  beach  plums,  but  since  they  had 
been  frozen  they  were  found  to  be  tasteless  and  insipid.  Bog  iron 
ore,  and  black  oxide  of  manganese,  are  found  near  Brown’s  Island, 
forming  a bed  on  the  river’s  side  four  inches  in  thickness. 

At  Whetstone  Falls  there  occur  ledges  of  siliceous  clay  slate, 
from  which  these  rapids  take  their  name. 

Arrived  at  Mr.  William  Hunt’s,  twenty-four  miles  above  Nicka- 
tow,  and  passed  the  night  there.  This  gentleman  has  prepared  for 
himself  at  this  place  a very  good  farm,  on  which  he  raises  supplies 
of  provisions  for  the  lumber  cutters.  He  has  dwelt  here  five  years, 
and  has  brought  the  soil  into  a good  state  of  cultivation,  and  during 
the  present  summer  has  raised  one  hundred  bushels  of  wheat,  and 
an  abundance  of  potatoes  and  hay. 

Mr.  Hodge  had  been  sent  up  the  east  branch  of  the  Penobscot, 
and  we  were  to  meet  him  at  the  forks  of  that  river  and  the  Seboois. 
Proceeding  thither,  we  met  him  on  his  return  from  the  Grand  Falls, 
and  we  proceeded  in  company  up  the  Seboois.  This  stream  is 
much  wider  than  we  had  imagined  it  to  be,  and  the  waters  are  easy 
for  the  first  day’s  cruise.  Slate  and  limestone  ledges  shew  them- 
selves in  the  bed  of  the  river  and  along  its  banks.  The  forest  trees 
are  luxuriant  and  are  mostly  of  hard  wood  growth,  such  as  rock 
maple,  red  oak,  hornbeam,  besides  an  abundance  of  hemlock  and 
spruce  trees.  The  soil  is  good  alluvial  loam,  derived  from  lime- 
stone and  slate. 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


23 


4 P.  M.  Here  we  came  to  burnt  land,  and  before  entering  it, 
as  night  was  at  hand  we  thought  it  expedient  to  camp.  The  rocks 
along  the  river’s  course  for  this  day  are  calciferous  slate  and  lime- 
stone, while  the  bottom  of  the  stream  is  covered  with  pebbles  of 
the  same  kind  of  rocks.  A violent  hail-storm  followed  by  a vivid 
rainbow  in  the  eastern  sky  here  served  to  vary  the  scene  as  we  pre- 
pared our  lodging  for  the  night. 

In  the  morning  (Sth  of  October)  we  found  that  there  had  been  a 
slight  fall  of  snow  during  the  night,  and  ice  one  eight  inch  thick, 
formed  in  our  boat  and  along  the  margin  of  the  river.  Proceeding 
up  the  stream,  we  came  in  view  of  Peaked  Mountain,  a singular 
saddle-shaped  hill  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  stream.  The  rocks 
along  from  this  place  upward  are  composed  entirely  of  Grau-wacke, 
the  strata  of  which  runs  N.  10°  E.,  and  dip  80°  S.  10°  E. 

This  rock  forms  the  principal  mass  of  the  Mountain,  and  it 
extends  far  into  the  country  around,  alternating  with  clay-slate  and 
limestone  rocks.  It  belongs  to  the  regular  anthracite  coal  series. 
Large  beds  of  limestone  made  up  of  madrepores  are  included  in  its 
strata,  and  are  extremely  valuable  for  the  manufacture  of  lime. 

Diluvial  boulders  of  amygdaloidal  trap,  jasper,  red  ferruginous 
slate,  epidote-rock,  and  huge  boulders  of  madrepore  limestone 
abound.  We  searched  the  rocks  for  a long  distance  in  the  burnt 
forest  to  ascertain  whether  there  were  discoverable  any  indications 
of  coal.  The  rocks  certainly  belong  to  that  formation,  and  are  fre- 
quently glazed  with  carbon,  but  no  bed  of  coal  was  discoverable. 

Indeed,  such  is  the  state  of  the  wild  lands,  that  there  is  but  little 
probability  of  our  finding  a bed  of  this  combustible,  unless  considera- 
ble labor  and  expense  are  bestowed  in  digging  into  the  earth,  for 
where  coal  occurs  the  soft  strata  are  generally  so  much  decomposed 
that  it  is  covered  with  deep  soil,  which  would  be  likely  to  conceal  it 
from  view.  An  upturned  stump  may,  however,  yet  reveal  its  ex- 
istence ; or  it  may  happen,  that  some  trench  cut  by  a mountain  torrent, 
may  bring  it  to  light,  but  it  is  not  our  duty  to  do  more  to  indicate  the 
proper  localities  for  such  researches.  Mining,  hereafter,  may  be 
carried  on  here,  when,  by  digging  a well  or  cellar  some  fortunate 
individual  lights  upon  a coal  bed. 

From  the  base  of  Peaked  Mountain,  we  triangulated  its  height 


24 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


above  the  Seboois,  and  found  its  perpendicular  elevation  to  be  800 
feet  above  the  river  at  its  base.  This  mountain  is  composed  of 
conglomerate  or  grau-wacke,  and  is  cut  through  its  centre  by  a huge 
mass  of  greenstone  trap,  which  has  produced  some  very  curious 
changes  in  the  strata.  Its  southern  peak  is  composed  of  amygdaloidal 
trap,  and  slate  melted  into  hornestone,  forming  a curious  breccia. 

The  central  peak  is  composed  mostly  of  coarse  conglomerate,  or 
grau-wacke,  which  is  in  part  cut  by  the  trap,  forms  the  northern 
peak.  Boulders  of  old  red  sandstone,  of  diluvial  deposition,  are 
found  upon  its  surface.  Veins  of  calcareous  spar  and  calcareous 
tufa  occur  in  this  rock. 

From  the  highest  point  of  this  mountain,  we  have  a magnificent 
view  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  I counted  no  less  than  twenty- 
seven  high  mountains,  that  were  seen  around.  Ktaadn,  white  with 
snow,  rears  itself  in  the  west,  and  clouds  are  seen  to  descend  upon 
its  summit,  discharging  their  burdens  of  snow  and  hail.  Chases 
Mountain,  a conspicuous  point,  bears  N.  55°  E.  Sugar-loaf  Moun- 
tain N.  14°  E.  Ktaadn’s  highest  peak  bears  S.  80°  W.  Piscata- 
quis ridge  S.  23°  E.  The  Travellers’,  N.  42°  W.  Another  lofty 
mountain,  unknown,  N.  45°  W.  Highlands  around  Houlton  are 
seen  in  the  east.  The  Seboois  winds  in  a serpentine  manner  from 
the  north  and  around  the  mountain’s  base. 

The  labor  of  clambering  up  this  craggy  and  steep  mountain  was 
amply  repaid  by  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  viewed  from  its  summit, 
and  we  should  have  remained  there  longer  had  we  not  been  forced 
to  retreat  by  a furious  hail  storm  from  Ktaadn,  that  drove  violently 
from  that  mountain,  and  reminded  our  Indian  of  his  threat  that  Po- 
mola  would  be  revenged  upon  us  for  measuring  the  height  of  his 
mountain. 

Descending,  we  found  that  two  Indians,  Francois  Bear  and 
Thomas  Murray,  had  stopped  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  to  hold  a 
talk  with  us.  They  were  on  a hunting  excursion  for  otter  and 
beaver  furs.  Learning  that  we  should  come  to  some  very  difficult 
carrying  places,  it  was  suggested  that  we  might  advantageously  em- 
ploy the  aid  of  these  Indians  for  a few  days  and  I then  engaged  them 
to  accompany  us  to  the  Aroostook. 

We  afterwards  found  that  this  was  a most  fortunate  arrangement 


1838. 


HOUSE — No.  70. 


27 


ded  in  the  grau-wacke,  and  an  abundance  of  rich  red  jasper  is  found 
at  their  junctions.  Large  blocks  of  limestone  filled  with  madrepores 
and  enicrinites,  are  profusely  scattered  on  the  soil.  Several  veins  of 
magnetic  iron  ore  of  small  dimensions  were  also  found. 

11th.  October.  This  morning  we  set  out  for  Godfrey’s  falls,  one 
of  the  most  difficult  carrying  places  on  our  route.  The  river’s  banks 
are  150  feet  high  on  our  course,  and  the  forests  have  all  been  burnt. 
The  soil  is  of  excellent  quality,  and  contains  carbonate  of  lime. 
Rocks  like  those  formerly  described  abound,  and  the  strata  dip  N. 
W.  60°.  Proceeding  a little  further,  the  dip  becomes  reversed,  and 
again  it  is  changed  to  the  N.  W. 

Reached  Godfrey’s  falls,  which  are  produced  by  a fall  of  the  Se- 
boois  over  high  ledges  of  slate  rocks.  The  banks  rise  perpendicu- 
larly on  each  side  to  the  height  of  200  feet,  and  we  have  to  carry 
all  our  effects  and  the  boats  up  a ledge,  at  an  angle  of  45°,  and  then 
through  the  burnt  forest  for  the  distance  of  four  miles  before  we 
again  reach  the  river.  By  the  aid  of  our  Indian  party  we  shall  be 
able  to  effect  this  in  two  days.  It  was  a singular  spectacle  to  wit- 
ness the  passage  of  our  party  by  this  carrying  place,  each  having  an 
enormous  pack  upon  his  shoulders,  and  scrambling  up  the  craggy 
ledge.  After  reaching  the  top  of  the  ledge  of  rocks,  and  having  ev- 
ery thing  brought  up  there,  we  set  out  with  our  loads,  and  travel- 
led over  burnt  logs  to  the  river  above  the  falls,  where  a camp  fire 
was  kindled,  and  we  rested  for  the  night. 

The  next  morning,  12th  of  October,  proved  to  be  rainy,  and  made 
the  labor  of  carrying  far  more  laborious. 

13th  October.  Having  brought  all  our  effects  over,  we  set  out 
again  upon  the  Seboois  river,  which  is  here  sluggish,  running  amid  low 
grassy  meadows  in  a serpentine  manner.  Two  miles  farther  up,  we 
came  to  rapid  water,  which  rushes  amid  numerous  blocks  of  slate 
and  trap  rocks.  A violent  hail-storm  rendered  our  journey  very 
uncomfortable  while  we  were  crossing  Long  Pond,  beyond  which 
we  proposed  to  visit  an  old  logging  camp,  and  there  pass  the  night. 

In  crossing  through  the  woods  below  this  lake  our  party  discov- 
ered an  important  bed  of  limestone,  and  in  the  afternoon  I returned 
with  them  to  explore  it  more  carefully.  The  limestone  proved  to 
be  a bed  included  in  grau-wacke  rocks,  and  most  curiously  brecciated 


28 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


by  the  intrusion  of  scoriaceous  trap,  which  has  run  through  the  va- 
rious crevices  and  cemented  the  broken  fragments  together,  forming 
an  elegant  breccia  marble  of  various  colored  stripes  standing  in 
every  imaginable  position.  Some  of  the  masses  have  been  render- 
ed compact  and  subcrystalline  by  igneous  agency,  while  others  con- 
tain distinct  remains  of  madrepores  and  encrinites.  This  bed  is  no 
less  than  90  feet  wide,  and  large  masses  project  above  the  soil.  It 
is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  first  Seboois  lake,  upon  township 
No.  7,  7th  range,  and  will  prove  of  great  value  to  the  inhabitants  when 
the  country  is  settled.  Having  loaded  ourselves  with  specimens  we 
retured  in  the  evening  to  our  camp  between  the  lakes. 

14th  October.  This  morning  we  crossed  the  second  Seboois 
lake,  which  is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water  about  two  miles  long  and 
of  nearly  the  same  width.  Reaching  the  opposite  shore,  we  carried 
our  baggage  over  a logging  road  to  the  third  lake,  which  is  along 
sheet  of  water,  extending  N.W.  and  S.E.  seven  miles,  and  it  is  two 
miles  wide.  The  rocks  are  argillaceous  limestone,  grau*wacke  and 
greenstone  trap. 

The  forest  trees  are  large,  being  mostly  cedar,  pine,  and  hemlock. 
On  reaching  the  upper  extremity  of  this  lake,  we  entered  a small 
sluggish  stream,  where  the  ice  had  formed  upon  its  surface  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  thick,  so  that  we  were  forced  to  break  our  way 
through  it  with  the  batteau,  while  the  canoes  followed  in  the  channel 
thus  opened.  This  operation  injured  our  boat  so  that  we  were 
obliged  to  stop  and  make  repairs.  The  forest  trees  are  mostly 
hackmetack  or  larch,  juniper,  and  yellow  birch. 

15th.  Last  night  was  very  uncomfortable,  and  the  snow  driving 
into  our  tent  kept  us  wet  and  cold.  This  morning  we  shall  carry  over 
to  La  Pompique  stream,  by  which  we  propose  to  descend  into  the 
Aroostook.  Francois,  being  familiar  with  these  regions,  is  to  serve 
as  guide.  Each  of  us  taking  our  load  we  set  out  on  the  journey 
through  the  forest,  following  a spotted  township  line.  On  reaching 
La  Pompique,  we  found  it  frozen,  and  the  ice  being  an  inch  and  a 
half  thick  it  was  found  exceedingly  laborious  to  break  our  way 
through  it  with  the  batteau,  our  progress  was  therefore  very  slow  and 
tedious. 

The  forest  trees  along  this  stream  are  larch,  spruce,  juniper, 


1838. 


HOUSE — No.  70. 


25 


as  the  voyage  would  hardly  have  been  completed  without  their 
aid  since  the  season  was  far  advanced,  and  the  carrying  places 
proved  very  tedious,  requiring  great  labor,  which  would  have  de- 
layed us  till  the  river  froze,  so  as  to  prevent  our  passage. 

October  9th.  This  morning  is  very  cold  (2Q  below  freezing) 
and  ice  covers  every  part  of  our  boat. 

Continuing  our  voyage  we  passed  along  amid  high  precipices  of 
Grau-wacke  rocks  rising  to  the  elevation  of  two  or  three  hundred 
feet  directly  from  the  river.  On  reaching  Jerry-brook,  we  came  to 
the  old  red  sandstone  formation  in  township  No.  5,  7th  range  on  the 
western  bank  of  the  Seboois.  The  strata  run  N.  E.,  and  S.  W. 
and  dip  to  the  S.  E.  70°.  It  belongs  to  the  regular  coal  series, 
and  rests  upon  the  Grau-wacke. 

Sugar-loaf  mountain  presents  its  lofty  cone  on  the  eastern  bank  of 
the  Seboois,  from  which  it  is  three  miles  distant.  Being  desirous  of 
examining  this  remarkable  eminence,  we  took  such  instruments  as 
were  required,  and  set  out  for  the  mountain,  travelling  through  a 
dense  forest  of  maple,  beech,  birch,  hemlock  and  pine  trees.  Ow- 
ing to  the  abundance  of  fallen  trees  and  rotten  logs  that  ob- 
structed our  path,  the  journey  was  found  more  laborious  than  we  had 
anticipated.  Ascending  this  mountain,  when  we  had  reached  a spot 
from  whence  we  could  see  the  river,  I took  its  angle  of  depression 
below  the  level,  and  there  set  off  a base  line  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  at  an  angle  of  40°  15',  and  clambering  over  the  craggy 
rocks  to  its  highest  peak,  the  base  line  was  measured  900  feet. 
The  angle  of  depression  of  the  river  was  again  taken,  and  from  these 
elements  we  ascertained  that  the  height  of  the  mountain  is  1900  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  river  at  its  base. 

From  this  point  Ktaadn  bears  S.  61°.  W.  Peaked  Mountain, 
S.  12°  E.  Chase’s  Mountain,  N.  75°  E.  The  Travellers  W., 
Shin  Pond,  S.  E.,  Seboois  falls  N.  17°  W. 

I remarked  also,  that  on  the  map  of  the  public  lands,  Shin  Brook 
is  put  down  as  running  between  the  Seboois  and  this  mountain,  while 
it  really  is  on  its  eastern  side,  and  makes  a broad  sweep  around  it, 
and  enters  the  river  near  the  falls.  No  less  than  50  mountains  and 
17  lakes,  may  be  seen  from  the  summit  of  the  sugar-loaf. 

This  mountain  is  composed  of  grau-wacke  and  clay  slate,  cut 
4 


26 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


through  by  a huge  trap  dyke,  the  igneous  influence  of  which  has 
converted  the  slate,  in  contact  with  it,  into  a beautiful  blood-red  Jas- 
per, hornestone  and  compact  felspar.  In  fact  every  shade  of  meta- 
morphosis produced  by  the  action  of  a molten  rock  may  here  be  ob- 
served. Epidote  and  calcareous  spar  abound  in  the  amygdaloidal 
trap,  and  are  some  of  the  products  of  its  action  upon  the  neighbor- 
ing rocks. 

This  great  dyke  is  no  less  than  500  feet  wide,  and  it  rises  higher  above 
the  sea  than  I have  ever  before  seen  that  rock  attain,  and  is  certainly 
a most  wonderful  phenomenon.  The  bed  of  jasper  is  no  less  than 
10  feet  wide,  and  occurs  on  the  N.  W.  side  of  the  mountain’s  top. 
We  remained  until  sunset  exploring  the  various  minerals  found  on 
this  mountain,  and,  although  the  view  of  the  setting  sun  from  this  em- 
inence was  a splendid  sight,  it  reminded  us  that  we  had  a long  jour- 
ney to  perform  before  we  could  reach  our  camp  at  the  falls,  and 
caused  us  to  hasten  our  descent. 

On  entering  the  forest  below,  we  found  ourselves  enveloped  in 
total  darkness,  and  it  was  a most  painful  task  to  travel  through  the 
woods,  stumbling  over  logs,  thrashed  in  the  face  by  the  boughs  of 
trees,  or  stumbling  over  rotten  logs  into  a peat  bog.  The  moon 
however,  soon  rose  above  the  horizon,  and  glimmering  through  the 
trees,  served  to  direct  our  course. 

Our  assistant,  Mr.  Hodge,  choosing  his  own  route,  was  soon  lost, 
and  wandered  far  up  Shin  brook,  mistaking  the  roar  of  the  falls  upon 
that  stream  for  those  of  the  Seboois.  On  reaching  the  river  we 
forded  the  stream,  and  arrived  safe  at  the  camp,  from  whence  I sent 
out  a party  in  search  of  Mr.  Hodge,  who  was  found  encamped  alone 
under  the  bark  of  a hemlock  tree,  the  stump  of  which  he  had  set  on 
fire,  and  had  determined  to  remain  until  morning.  He  was  guided 
by  the  men  back  to  our  camp,  where  more  comfortable  quarters  were 
prepared  for  him. 

10th.  After  labelling  our  specimens,  we  continued  our  journey, 
and  examined  the  rocks  at  Che-ga-laps-cagos  falls,  which  were 
grau-wacke  like  that  before  described.  Carried  by  the  falls  where 
there  occur  an  abundance  of  red  slate  rocks,  running  N.  35°  E., 
and  dipping  N.  W.  80°. 

Above  the  falls  we  come  to  numerous  dykes  of  trap  rocks  imbed- 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


31 


At  the  confluence  of  La  Pompique,  with  the  Aroostook,  the  lat- 
ter river  is  60  yards  wide,  and  the  water  about  5 feet  deep,  while  its 
banks  are  5 or  6 feet  high  on  each  side,  and  are  of  alluvial  origin. 
The  soil  is  of  a chocolate  brown  and  ash  color,  free  from  pebbles  or 
blocks  of  stone.  Rounded  blocks  of  greenstone  trap  occur  in  the 
bed  of  the  river,  but  no  ledges  are  visible.  Proceeding  down  the 
river,  we  soon  came  to  ledges  of  calciferous  slate,  belonging  to  the 
grau-wacke  series,  and  the  beds  of  limestone.  Below  the  lime- 
stone ledges,  the  soil  changes  its  character,  it  becoming  alight  yellow 
loam,  free  from  pebbles,  and  is  evidently  of  alluvial  origin.  On  the 
dark-colored  soil  above  mentioned,  flourish  an  abundance  of  lofty 
pines,  larch,  juniper,  fir,  spruce,  cedar,  and  yellow  birch  trees.  The 
yellow  loam  is  remarkable  for  the  tali  rank  grass,  called  blue  joint, 
which  skirts  the  margin  of  the  river,  and  is  from  4 to  5 feet  high, 
and  extremely  luxuriant.  The  forest  trees  are  of  mixed  growth, 
but  the  sugar  maples  are  most  abundant,  and  are  of  gigantic  size. 
Elms,  white  birch,  black  and  white  ash,  also  abound.  The  soft 
wood  grows  mostly  on  the  low  lands,  while  the  uplands  in  the  rear, 
are  densely  crowded  with  hard  wood  trees,  among  which,  are  scat- 
tered magnificent  pines. 

Proceeding  13  miles  down  the  river,  exploring  the  various  slate 
and  limestone  ledges,  we  encamped  for  the  night.  Early  the  next 
morning,  we  continued  our  voyage,  the  water  became  deeper,  and 
the  river  widened  to  80  feet.  Ash  and  elm  trees  abound,  while  the 
immediate  shores  of  the  river,  are  densely  crowded  with  alder  bushes. 
We  passed  a small  river  on  the  right,  called  the  Am-qual-kus  stream. 
Having  reached  a curve,  called  the  Oxbow,  we  found  that  the  In- 
dians had  there  held  an  encampment,  and  almost  every  birch  tree 
had  been  stripped  of  its  bark,  to  furnish  torches,  used  in  spearing 
salmon.  The  Oxbow  forms  a curvature  of  one  mile,  and  the  neck 
of  land  included  between  the  two  portions  of  the  curve,  is  but  20 
rods  across,  so  that  it  is  customary  for  the  Indians  to  carry  their 
canoes  over  this  portage.  Several  acres  of  this  neck  of  land,  has 
been  cleared  ; the  soil  is  oT  good  quality,  being  of  alluvial  origin, 
and  resting  upon  a stratum  of  bog  iron  ore. 

Continuing  our  route,  we  passed  several  small  islands  in  the  midst 
of  the  river.  Ledges  of  slate  and  quartz  rocks,  occur  on  the  left 


32  GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 

hand  side ; the  loose  rocks  in  the  river  are  mostly  composed  of  a 
coarse  conglomerate  or  grau-wacke,  and  greenstone  trap. 

18th.  Encamped  for  the  night  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  river. 
Early  the  next  morning,  we  set  out  on  our  voyage,  and  ran  down  to 
the  confluence  of  the  Aroostook  and  St.  Croix,  where  there  are 
several  settlers.  Visited  Mr.  Thomas  Goss,  who  is  one  of  the  old- 
est inhabitants  on  the  river,  having  resided  there  10  years.  He  has, 
within  four  years,  cleared  at  this  place  a very  good  farm,  and  suc- 
ceeds in  raising  all  the  produce  required  for  his  family.  He  informed 
me,  that  wheat  grows  very  well  upon  his  land,  and  is  of  good  quality, 
weighing  60  lbs.  to  the  bushel,  and  producing  50  lbs.  of  flour. 

Corn  succeeds  well  in  good  seasons  on  the  uplands,  and  potatoes 
are  extremely  luxuriant,  and  one  of  those  which  he  showed  us, 
weighed  2£  lbs.  The  soil  is  of  a light  yellow  loam,  covered  to  the 
depth  of  4 or  5 inches,  by  a black  vegetable  mould.  Mr.  Goss  is 
of  opinion,  that  from  15  to  20,000  tons  of  square  pine  timber  were 
carried  down  to  the  St.  John,  from  the  Aroostook,  during  the  past 
year.  A party  was  at  that  time  engaged  in  this  unlawful  business, 
and  the  land  agent  of  Maine,  had  just  sent  an  emissary  to  forbid 
their  depredations. 

On  the  right,  about  half  a mile  below  Mr.  Goss’  house,  there 
are  limestone  ledges.  The  strata  run  S.W.,  and  dip  40°  S.E. 
The  St.  Croix,  at  its  confluence  with  the  Aroostook,  is  about  equal 
in  width  with  that  river,  and  is  an  important  tributary.  Upon  it,  are 
excellent  mill  sites,  with  a good  fall  of  water,  of  6 or  8 feet.  The 
mouth  of  the  St.  Croix,  is  80  miles  above  the  falls  of  the  Aroos- 
took, and  40  miles  above  the  Presq’  Isle.  During  freshets,  a raft 
may  run  from  this  place  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  in  one  day,  but 
when  the  waters  are  low,  as  they  are  at  present,  three  days  would  be 
required . There  are  several  log  cabins  near  this  place,  where  the 
settlers  are  preparing  to  clear  the  land. 

Proceeding  down  river,  we  found  that  the  water  became  deeper, 
and  the  banks  on  each  side  more  elevated,  rising  to  the  height  of  30  to 
40  feet.  A few  ledges  of  limestone  crop  out.  At  the  mouth  of 
the  great  Machias,  (which  is  a tributary  stream  entering  the  Aroos- 
took on  its  western  side,)  ten  miles  below  the  St.  Croix,  we  reached 
the  residence  of  Mr.  Dalton,  who  has  built  a small  but  good  house, 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


29 


pines,  and  black  alders  ; the  larch  and  junipers  being  the  most 
common.  Many  of  the  pines  are  very  large  and  lofty,  and  they  have 
never  yet  been  visited  by  the  axe  of  the  lumberman.  As  we  de- 
scended the  stream,  the  ice  became  gradually  thinner,  and  at  length 
we  came  to  deep  and  01*1  water.  Here  Francois  took  me  into  a 
swamp  to  shew  me  a be&Ver  house,  which  is  five  feet  high,  and  of  a 
conical  or  dome  shape,  made  up  of  sticks  and  mud.  Our  guide  had 
recently  destroyed  the  last  beaver  of  the  family,  so  that  the  house 
was  untenanted.  On  examining  its  structure,  it  appeared  that  it  was 
composed  of  four  or  five  stories  and  had  a subaqueous  communica- 
tion with  the  little  dams  around.  It  is  formed  of  sticks  gnawed  into 
regular  lengths  of  about  two  feet,  and  these  sticks  were  generally 
of  yellow  birch,  the  bark  of  which  serves  the  animals  for  food  during 
the  winter.  Around  the  house  were  the  stumps  of  trees,  that  had 
been  felled  by  these  sagacious  animals,  and  some  there  were  six 
inches  in  diameter.  Half  a mile  from  this  place  we  came  to  a beaver 
dam,  where  these  animals  have  laid  a barrier  two  feet  high  across  the 
stream. 

The  river  being  here  too  shallow  and  rocky  for  the  boats,  we 
carried  over  to  deeper  water,  following  a crooked  hunting  path  for 
the  distance  of  half  a mile. 

16th.  Having  brought  all  our  baggage  over,  we  intended  this  day 
to  reach  the  Aroostook.  Following  La  Pompique,  we  had  a good 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  lofty  timber  trees  that  abound  along  its 
course.  When  we  bad  reached  deep  water  we  pushed  rapidly  along, 
and  arrived  at  the  Aroostook,  at  4 P.  M.,  and  camped  a little  below 
the  mouth  of  La  Pompique  stream.  The  Aroostook  here  is  a broad 
and  beautiful  river,  having  a deep  alluvial  soil  of  a chocolate  color, 
and  covered  with  lofty  forest  trees,  of  various  kinds,  indicative  of  a 
rich  soil.  When  we  had  made  our  camp  fire,  we  claimed  a song 
the  Indians  had  promised,  and  they  gave  us  first  a grand  Te  Deum 
in  Latin  ! Strange  indeed  did  it  sound  to  us  to  hear  a Latin  hymn 
from  the  sons  of  the  forest,  amid  the  wilderness,  where  axe  had 
never  resounded  ! After  this  we  desired  the  war  dance  as  being 
more  in  character  with  the  scene,  and  our  three  Indians  performed 
it,  singing  a peculiar  chaunt  in  their  own  language.  The  Indians 
Francois  and  Thomas,  having  performed  their  duty  as  guides  and  la- 


30 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


borers  in  a satisfactory  manner,  were  paid  and  discharged,  since  their 
services  were  no  longer  required. 

17th.  This  morning  the  tent  was  struck,  and  we  proceeded  slow- 
ly down  the  river,  exploring  the  banks  of  the  stream,  and  collecting 
specimens  of  the  various  soils,  while  at  the  same  time  I kept  a plan 
of  the  river  as  we  passed  along,  and  recorded  upon  it  every  remark- 
able object  in  our  course. 

The  rocks  in  the  stream  are  large  boulders  of  greenstone  trap, 
but  there  were  no  ledges  visible  until  we  had  descended  eight  miles, 
when  the  ealciferous  slate  shews  itself  and  runs  N.  45°  E.,  and 
dips  50°  S.E.  Beds  of  good  limestone  are  included  between  the 
strata.  Loose  masses  of  amygdaloidal  trap,  and  boulders  of  jasper, 
abound.  Bog  iron  ore  also  occurs  in  small  beds  six  or  eight  inches 
thick,  and  accompanied  by  black  oxide  of  manganese. 

Having  run  about  12  miles,  we  encamped  amid  a beautiful  grove 
of  lofty  rock  maple,  yellow  birch,  and  ash  trees. 

18th.  This  morning,  after  labelling  and  packing  specimens,  we 
set  out  for  our  descent  of  the  Aroostook.  The  rocks,  here  and 
there,  show  themselves,  and  are  argillaceous  slate,  the  strata  of  which 
run  N.E.,  S.W.,  and  dip  N.W.  30°.  Encamped  left  hand  side  of 
river.  Rain  fell  in  night. 

19th.  Without  entering  into  minute  details,  it  might  be  advisable 
to  give  a general  account  of  the  country  through  which  the  Aroos- 
took winds  it  way,  to  the  St.  John.  This  river  is  a broad  and  beau- 
tiful stream,  having  a gradual  and  easy  descent,  free  from  obstructions, 
so  that  a raft  may  run  freely  from  La  Pompique,  to  the  falls  at  its  con- 
fluence, with  the  St.  John.  Its  bottom  is  composed  of  pebbles  for 
the  principal  part  of  its  course,  and  there  are  a few  low  islands  in  its 
midst.  The  soil,  for  the  first  12  miles,  is  an  alluvium  of  an  ash- 
gray,  or  chocolate  brown  color,  made  up  of  the  fine  particles  of  slate 
limestone,  and  greenstone  trap,  brought  down  the  river,  and  deposit- 
ed with  vegetable  matter  along  its  course. 

Lower  down,  we  came  to  yellow  loam,  of  a fine  kind,  derived 
from  the  limestone  rocks,  and  luxuriant  in  its  produce. 

The  average  width  of  the  alluvial  region,  cannot  be  less  than  six 
or  eight  miles,  and,  in  some  places,  it  is  much  wider.  It  is  a well 
wooded  region,  and  is  the  best  settling  land  in  the  state. 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


33 


and  cleared  a small  tract  of  land.  It  is  52  miles  above  the  Aroos- 
took falls.  Opposite  this  place,  there  are  high  ledges  of  grau-wacke, 
of  a fine  texture,  filled  with  the  remains  of  plants,  and  glazed  with 
carbonaceous  matter.  Marine  exuviae,  such  as  terebratulae,  favorsites, 
madrepores,  and  corrallines,  abound.  The  strata  run  N.E.  S.W., 
and  the  dip  is  anticlinical,  or  to  the  S.E.  and  N.W.  Thin  grau- 
wacke  slates,  covered  with  impressions  of  fuci,  are  abundant.  This 
rock  belongs  to  the  regular  anthracite  coal  formation,  and  it  is  highly 
probable,  that  beds  of  that  valuable  combustible,  will  be  found  in  this 
vicinity.  The  rock  may  be  used  profitably  for  mill-stones,  for  the 
construction  of  lime  kilns  and  iron  furnaces.  Limestone  abounds  in 
this  vicinity,  and  forms  cliffs  rising  10  or  12  feet  from  the  rivers’ 
level.  Mr.  Dalton  states,  that  in  good  seasons,  he  has  raised  40 
bushels  of  good  wheat  to  the  acre,  and  he  found  that  the  crops  improv- 
ed on  the  second  and  third  tillage  of  the  soil.  This  is  doubtless  the 
case  as  by  ploughing,  the  black  vegetable  mould  which  is  from  four 
to  six  inches  thick,  becomes  mixed  with  the  loam,  increasing  its  fer- 
tility. Indian  corn  succeeds  well  in  good  seasons,  likewise  all  the 
usual  culinary  vegetables.  The  manufacture  of  maple  sugar  is  here 
carried  on  to  a great  extent,  during  the  spring  season.  The  process 
is  as  follows  : holes  being  bored  into  the  trees  with  an  auger,  a piece 
of  wood  is  inserted,  in  which  a groove  is  cut,  in  order  to  conduct 
the  sap  into  receiving  vessels,  which  are  made  of  birch  bark,  and 
are  called  by  the  French  name  Casseroles.  Three  men  can  manage 
1,000  maple  trees,  and  boil  down  the  sap  as  it  is  collected.  The 
sugar  season  begins  about  the  middle  of  March,  and  continues  to  the 
middle  of  May.  Three  men  usually  obtain  from  1,500  to  2,000 
lbs.  of  sugar  during  the  season,  and  it  sells  from  10  to  20  cents  per 
pound. 

Twenty  quarts  of  sap  yield  one  pound  of  sugar,  at  the  first  tapping 
of  the  trees ; on  the  second  the  same  quantity  of  sap  yields  one  and 
a half,  and  on  the  third,  two  pounds  are  obtained.  The  chief  ob- 
stacle to  this  manufacture  is  the  want  of  good  evaporating  kettles, 
common  iron  pots  being  generally  used.  If  large  tinned  copper 
boilers  could  be  obtained,  the  business  could  be  carried  on  in  a more 
rapid  and  profitable  manner,  while  the  sugar  would  be  of  a much 
better  quality.  If  good  utensils  were  used  in  its  manufacture,  and 
5 


34 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


more  skill  employed  in  clarifying  the  syrup,  I have  no  doubt  that 
excellent  white  sugar  might  be  made  at  a much  lower  cost  than  the 
inhabitants  now  pay  for  the  foreign  article.  One  mile  below  Dalton’s 
we  came  to  the  little  Machias,  a small  river  entering  the  Aroostook 
from  the  west,  and  ten  miles  up  this  river  there  is  a lake,  and  mill 
privileges  are  said  to  occur  on  it.  Grau-wacke,  of  fine  texture,  re- 
sembling the  grey  sandstone,  filled  with  numerous  petrifactions  of 
corrallines,  madrepores,  favosites,  and  impressions  of  terebratulae 
and  spiriferae.  The  accompanying  slates  are  glazed  with  carbon, 
and  contain  remains  of  fuci  or  sea-weed.  This  rock  is  used  for  mill 
stones  and  will  answer  for  the  construction  of  lime-kilns  and  furnaces. 
Limestone  of  good  quality  also  occurs  near  this  place. 

October  19.  After  passing  an  uncomfortable  night  encamped  in 
the  woods  and  exposed  to  a violent  snow  storm,  we  set  out  for  Mr. 
Currier’s,  ten  miles  above  the  Presq  Isle  river,  passing  on  our  way 
several  islands  covered  with  hard  wood  trees,  chiefly  sugar  maples. 
The  river  curved  most  beautifully  as  we  descended,  and  occasionally 
the  banks  protected  from  the  violence  of  the  storm  which  was  still 
raging.  We  here  observed  an  abundance  of  argillaceous  slate  and 
grau-wacke,  filled  with  beds  of  limestone,  and  cut  through  by  occa- 
sional dykes  of  greenstone  trap.  The  land  becomes  more  elevated 
and  the  river’s  banks  rise  from  40  to  100  feet. 

On  the  20th  of  October  we  encamped  at  night,  and  next  morning 
continued  our  course  down  the  river,  notwithstanding  the  continu- 
ance of  the  snow-storm.  We  here  observed  a ridge  of  land  elevated 
300  feet  above  the  river’s  level,  and  densely  covered  with  a luxu- 
riant growth  of  maple  and  other  forest  trees.  Strata  of  black  lime- 
stone filled  with  an  infinity  of  veins  of  calcareous  spar  occur  on  the 
left  hand  side  of  the  river,  and  continue  to  the  distance  of  10  or  12 
miles,  cropping  out  here  and  there  along  its  banks. 

Near  Mr.  Currier’s  I discovered  a valuable  mine  of  rich  iron  ore. 
It  is  of  that  variety  called  compact  red  haematite.  It  occurs  on  the 
hill,  S.E.  from  the  house,  and  about  half  a mile  distant.  Its  out 
croppings  may  be  seen  in  two  different  places  upon  the  side  and  on 
the  summit  of  the  hill.  The  lower  bed  runs  north  9°  E.,  and  dips 
S5°  eastwardly  ; the  upper  bed  runs  north  5°  east,  and  dips  also  to 
the  eastward.  This  ore  occurs  in  calciferous  slate  charged  with 
manganese,  its  colors  being  red,  green,  and  black.  The  strata  run 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


35 


N.  16°  west.  In  order  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  this  ore  I caused 
the  soil  to  be  removed  in  several  places,  and,  on  finding  the  bounda- 
ries of  the  principal  bed,  it  was  measured  and  found  to  be  36  feet 
wide.  The  soil,  overlaying  it  was  covered  with  an  abundance  of 
red  sorrel,  which  served  to  indicate  the  position  of  the  ore,  and  by 
digging  along  its  margin  we  always  found  the  haematite  below. 
The  soil  is  very  thin  and  composed  entirely  of  disintegrated  ore. 
I measured  the  limits  of  the  bed  as  far  as  I was  able  to  expose  it, 
and  found  its  length  to  be  450  feet.  It  continues  into  the  forest 
and  is  probably  connected  with  the  great  bed  of  iron  ore  which  I 
discovered  last  year  upon  the  Meduxnikeag,  at  Woodstock.  The 
hill  at  Currier’s,  is  more  than  100  feet  above  the  river’s  level,  so 
that  a mine  may  be  easily  wrought  and  drained.  Let  us  now  calcu- 
late from  the  measurements  which  we  have  made,  the  quantity  of 
iron  ore  which  may  here  be  obtained. 

Thus  the  bed  is  450  ft.  long,  36  ft.  wide,  and  can  be  drained  ea- 
sily to  the  depth  of  100  feet.  450X36X100=1,520,000  cubic 
feet.  A cubic  foot  of  the  ore  weighs  240  lbs.  1,520,000-^240 
=364,800,000  lbs.  of  ore,  which,  yielding  50  per  cent  of  iron  will 
give  182,400,000  lbs  of  iron,  or  9,120,000  tons  within  the  limits  of 
our  measurements.  9,120,000  tons  of  iron  at  $50  per  ton  would 
give  $456,000,000  as  the  value  of  the  iron  contained  in  this  bed. 
At  the  present  time  iron  is  worth  $100  per  ton  at  Woodstock,  upon 
the  St.  John,  and  costs  vastly  more  upon  the  Aroostook,  so  that  we 
cannot  doubt  that  a most  profitable  investment  may  be  made  in  work- 
ing this  ore.  Such  a discovery  as  this  amply  proves  the  importance 
of  a geological  survey  of  the  country.  The  following  are  the  re- 
sults I have  obtained  by  analysis  of  this  ore,  Sp.  Gr. =3,863 
weight  of  a cubic  foot,  calculated  from  the  Sp.  Gr.=241  lbs. 


In  100  grs.  the  ore  contains  as  follows  : 

Water,  ....  6.00 

Insoluble  residue, consisting  of  silex,  . 8.80 

Per  oxide  of  iroij,  . . . 76.80 

Ox.  manganese,  . . . 8 20 


99.80 

Loss,  ....  20 


100.00 


36 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


76.8  of  per  oxide  of  iron  contains  53  of  pure  iron  ; hence  we 
may  say  that  the  ore  will  yield  50  per  cent  of  bar  iron  or  60  per  cent 
of  cast  iron,  for  about  7 per  cent  of  carbon  enters  into  the  composi- 
tion of  the  latter  variety.  Ten  miles  above  this  place  on  the  margin 
of  the  river  as  already  described,  occur  materials  required  for  the 
erection  of  an  iron  furnace.  Limestone,  suitable  for  a flux  abounds 
in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  on  the  Tobique  stream  opposite,  the 
mouth  of  the  Aroostook,  is  an  abundance  of  new  red  sandstone, 
suitable  for  the  lining  of  the  furnace,  and  for  hearth-stones,  while 
charcoal  may  be  had  in  any  quantity  for  the  mere  labor  of  cutting 
and  burning  the  wood.  By  means  of  charcoal,  the  finest  varieties 
of  iron  may  be  manufactured  like  that  brought  from  Sweden,  and 
capable  like  that  metal  of  forming  the  best  cast  steel. 

A gentleman  in  Boston,  well  acquainted  with  iron  works,  has  fur- 
nished me  with  the  following  statistical  observations  respecting  the 
expenditures  and  profits  of  iron  furnaces. 

In  Vermont  near  Troy,  there  has  been  lately  established  a large 
blast  furnace,  by  which  three  tons  of  cast  iron  are  obtained  per  diem 
from  the  granular  magnetic  ore  of  that  town. 


The  charcoal  used  each  day  amounts  to  600  bushels, 


and  costs  per  bushel  4 cents, 

$24  00 

Cost  of  ore  and  flux  for  3 tons  of  iron — $10  per  diem, 

10  00 

Labor,  $10 

10  00 

Interest  on  capital  of  $100,000,  per  diem, 

16  67 

Cost  of  three  tons  of  cast  iron, 

$60  67 

Three  tons  of  cast  iron,  at  $45  per  ton,  sell  for  135  00 

Deduct  cost  of  manufacturing, 

60  67 

Profit  on  three  tons, 

$74  33 

When  two  tons  are  made,  the  profit  is  $43  33 

This  gentleman  also  states  that  the  following  are 

the  items  of  ex- 

penditure  and  profit,  at  the  Franconia,  N.  H.,  iron  works,  where 
magnetic  iron  ore  is  also  wrought,  the  average  width  of  the  veins 
being  but  two  feet,  from  which  one  man  can  blast  out  two  tons  daily, 
at  the  cost  of  $6  per  ton. 


183S. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


37 


Six  laborers  are  employed  at  the  furnace,  viz.  two  top  men,  who 
attend  to  the  charge  ; three  fire  men,  who  have  the  care  of  the  blast, 
and  of  the  casting  ; and  one  gutter  man. 

Two  tons  of  iron  are  made  each  day.  Limestone,  used  for  flux, 
is  carted  six  miles  to  the  furnace. 

700  bushels  of  coal  are  used  daily,  costing  4 cents  per 


bushel,  $28  00 

Cost  of  the  ore,  $6  per  ton,  4 tons,  24  00 

Cost  of  flux,  and  roasting  of  the  ore,  2 00 

Labor  of  six  men,  10  00 

Interest  on  capital,  and  contingencies,  16  67 


Cost  of  two  tons  of  pig  iron,  $80  67 

Two  tons  of  pig  iron  sell  at  the  foundry  for  100  00 
Deduct  cost,  80  69 


Daily  profit,  $20  33 


But,  in  the  form  of  castings,  made  at  the  works,  the  iron  sells 
frequently  for  $75  per  ton,  which  would  give  $69  33,  daily  profit. 
Bar  iron  sells  for  $100  per  ton. 

I trust  that  we  may  soon  have  a number  of  smelting  furnaces  in 
operation  in  Maine,  and  that  no  longer  so  large  and  valuable  resour- 
ces will  be  allowed  to  remain  neglected,  while  the  State  is  paying 
enormous  sums  of  money  to  England,  Sweden  and  Russia,  for  her 
supplies  of  this  indispensable  metal. 

A small  blast  furnace,  capable  of  yielding  a ton  and  a half  of  iron 
daily,  has  been  erected  at  Shapleigh  in  York  county,  Maine,  and 
cost  but  $13,000.  Such  a furnace  could  be  erected  upon  the 
Aroostook  for  about  $20,000  and  would  answer  for  the  supply  of 
the  present  demand  for  iron  in  that  district.  As  the  country  becomes 
settled,  more  extensive  works  may  be  erected,  and  all  the  usual  depart- 
ments of  the  business  maybe  carried  on.  I have  estimated  the  cost 
of  a furnace  upon  the  Aroostook  higher  than  that  of  one  in  a more 
densely  populated  part  of  the  state,  because  the  price  of  labor  re- 
quired for  the  erection  of  the  works  would  be  necessarily  greater, 
since  the  chief  workmen  would  be  obtained  from  some  other  section 


38  GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


of  the  country.  The  principal  materials  required  for  the  building 
of  the  furnace  can,  however,  be  obtained  for  the  mere  labor  of  ex- 
tracting them,  and  they  occur  close  at  hand. 

Situated  so  favorably  upon  the  borders  of  a great  river  where 
water  power  can  be  advantageously  employed  in  working  the  ma- 
chinery of  the  blowing  apparatus,  &c.,  amid  interminable  forests  of 
hard  wood  trees  which  will  furnish  a never  failing  supply  of  charcoal, 
possessing  in  fact  every  advantage  required  ; this  ore  is  of  incalcu- 
lable value,  and  not  only  sufficient  to  supply  all  the  future  inhabitants 
who  may  subsequently  settle  on  this  river,  but  also  those  upon  the 
St/ John  and  the  whole  Penobscot  country.  Besides  this,  it  is  capa- 
ble of  becoming  of  national  importance  in  furnishing  supplies  of  can- 
non and  small  arms,  and  will  hereafter  become  an  admirable  site  for 
a national  foundry. 

From  the  direction  in  which  these  beds  of  iron  ore  run  it  is  highly 
probable  that  they  continue  through  the  country,  and  connect  them- 
selves with  those  which  I formerly  discovered  in  Woodstock,  N.  B., 
thus  passing  directly  above  the  United  States  Military  Post  at 
Houlton.  Should  this  opinion  prove  to  be  correct  such  a discovery 
will  prove  of  immense  importance  to  the  United  States,  for  it  is  ex- 
tremely difficult  to  carry  heavy  ordinance  to  that  frontier  post,  and 
in  case  of  war  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  furnish  a supply  of 
cannon,  and  the  balls  required  in  defence  of  that  fortification.  Al- 
though war  is  a great  evil,  yet  it  is  always  the  best  policy  to  hold 
ourselves  in  readiness  to  meet  such  an  exigency,  and  by  such  alert- 
ness on  our  part  the  probability  of  such  an  issue  will  be  farther  re- 
moved ; and  it  is  an  established  maxim  that  u in  time  of  peace  we 
should  prepare  for  war.” 

After  making  a careful  exploration  of  the  iron  ore  at  Currier’s, 
we  set  out  on  our  voyage  to  the  mouth  of  the  Presq  Isle,  10  miles 
below  this  locality.  Limestone  of  a blue  color,  filled  with  an  infinity 
of  calcareous  spar  veins,  occurs  abundantly  on  each  side  of  the 
Aroostook.  So  much  of  the  day  having  been  taken  up  in  the  exam- 
ination of  the  iron  ore  and  limestones,  we  were  unable  to  proceed 
far  before  night,  and  encamped  upon  an  island  covered  with  maple 
and  birch  trees,  a little  more  than  a mile  below. 

Oct.  22d.  Early  this  morning  struck  our  tent,  and  proceeded 


1838. 


HOUSE — No.  70. 


39 


down  river,  examining  the  numerous  limestone  rocks  that  crop  out 
on  each  side.  Passed  by  several  log  houses,  where  recent  clearings 
of  the  wood  land  had  taken  place.  The  country  becomes  more  ele- 
vated, and  hills  three  or  four  hundred  feet  high  rise  from  the  right 
bank  of  the  river.  The  forest  trees  are  very  abundant,  and  are  of  a 
mixed  open  growth  of  hard  wood,  fir  and  pine.  A little  below,  a 
large  island  3J  miles  above  Presq  Isle  river,  we  came  to  the  dwel- 
ling of  Mr.  Peter  Bull,  who  is  one  of  the  first  settlers  on  this  river, 
having  resided  there  15  years.  His  first  dwelling  was  an  ordinary 
log  hut,  but  since  that  time,  he  has  erected  a handsome  house,  hav- 
i ng  a brick  chimney,  and  being  well  glazed.  He  informed  me  that  he 
manufactured  his  own  bricks  from  the  clay  found  about  | a mile  below, 
on  the  river.  His  lime,  however,  was  brought  from  the  city  of  St. 
John,  and  cost  him  $16  per  tierce  ! Very  few  of  the  settlers  in- 
dulge in  the  luxury  of  plastered  walls  and  ceilings,  on  account  of  the 
expense  of  lime.  Yet  the  very  rocks  under  their  feet  are  excellent 
limestone,  but  they  were  not  aware  of  the  fact,  nor  did  the  people 
then  know  anything  of  the  simple  process  of  converting  them  into  lime. 
It  was  formerly  the  custom  to  obtain  their  flour  from  Woodstock,  and 
it  cost  the  people  there  no  less  than  $20  per  barrel,  but  now  they 
generally  raise  their  own  wheat,  and  there  are  two  flour  mills  in  op- 
eration on  the  tributary  streams.  Some  of  the  inhabitants  grind 
their  own  wheat  in  small  mills  turned  by  hand,  the  mill-stones  being 
obtained  from  the  grindstone  ledge. 

After  spending  the  night  at  Mr.  Bull’s,  we  again  took  our  boats, 
and  proceeded  down  stream,  when  arriving  at  Mr.  Gardiner’s,  a few 
miles  below,  I was  called  to  visit  a sick  patient,  and  having  given 
advice,  continued  our  voyage  to  Hooper’s,  i a mile  above  Presq 
Isle,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night.  This  place  is  36  miles  above 
the  Aroostook  falls,  and  a raft  will  run  to  that  place  during  freshets, 
in  4 hours.  But  as  the  waters  run  at  the  present  time,  it  would  re- 
quire 12  hours. 

The  most  rapid  rate  of  the  current  during  high  freshets,  is  9 miles 
an  hour,  and  the  slowest  is  3 miles,  the  mean  rate  being  6 miles. 

The  soil  upon  Hooper’s  farm  is  a rich  yellow  loam  from  disinte- 
gration of  limestone  rocks,  and  it  is  of  a diluvial  and  alluvial  char- 
acter. 


40 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


On  Monday  morning  23d  October,  we  entered  the  Presq  Isle  river, 
and  ascended  that  stream  to  the  farm  of  Mr.  Dennis  Fairbanks/who 
had  sent  me  an  invitation  to  call  upon  him.  His  dwelling  is  a mile 
and  a half  up  this  stream,  and  he  has  there  established  saw  and  flour 
mills.  On  reaching  his  establishment,  we  were  very  cordially  re- 
ceived, and  our  time  was  spent  in  exploring  the  resources  of  the 
country  around. 

Mr.  Fairbanks  has  dwelt  there  9 years,  and  has  brought  his  estate 
into  a good  state  of  cultivation.  He  pursues  almost  every  branch 
of  trade  required  in  a new  settlement,  makes  his  own  agricultural 
tools,  machinery,  and  even  his  boots  and  shoes,  showing  unusual 
dexterity  in  these  various  occupations. 

His  mills  are  three  stories  high  on  one  side,  and  two  on  the  other, 
and  the  building  is  handsomely  shingled  and  painted. 

In  this  building  is  an  excellent  flour  mill,  and  it  is  kept  in  contin- 
ual operation.  A part  of  the  building  serves  also  as  a carpenter’s 
shop,  where  Mr.  Fairbanks  carries  on  the  work  according  to  his 
need.  He  has  also  a saw  mill,  and  saws  boards  which  are  sent  to 
the  boundary  line  for  sale. 

After  examining  his  manufacturing  establishments)  I visited  the 
fields  where  he  had  lately  reaped  a most  abundant  harvest.  The 
wheat  stubble  was  extremely  crowded,  and  of  so  large  size,  that  from 
curiosity  I was  disposed  to  split  open  one  of  the  straws  and  measure 
it,  when  I found  that  it  was  one  and  a third  inch  in  circumference  ! 
Indeed,  I never  saw  more  convincing  proofs  of  the  fertility  of  the 
soil.  When  I had  collected  all  the  specimens  of  soil  that  I wished 
for  analysis,  I was  desired  to  enter  the  two  large  barns  belonging  to 
this  gentleman.  His  crop  had  been  so  luxuriant  that  he  had  been 
obliged  to  put  up  a new  building  to  contain  it,  and  both  the  barns 
were  found  to  be  crowded  from  the  floors  to  the  ridgepoles  with 
sheafs  of  wheat,  rye,  and  oats  ; there  being,  as  was  estimated,  no 
less  than  800  or  1000  bushels  of  grain,  garnered  in  ; and  all  this  was 
obtained  from  less  that  30  acres  of  land  ! 

The  wheat  weighs  60  lbs.  to  the  bushel ; rye,  65  lbs.  ; oats, 
40  lbs.  It  was  stated  to  me  that  he  had  raised  50  bushels  of  oats 
upon  an  acre  of  land.  Indian  corn,  turnips,  potatoes,  pumpkins, 
and  all  usual  culinary  vegetables  grow  well  upon  this  soil.  The 


1838. 


HOUSE — No.  70. 


41 


average  crops  of  wheat  for  the  past  three  years  upon  the  Aroostook, 
have  been  20  bushels  to  the  acre.  “ Indeed,”  remarks  Mr.  Fair- 
banks, “ there  were  never  greater  natural  advantages  offered  to  the 
farmer  than  are  to  be  found  upon  this  river.  Nothing  is  wanting 
but  industry,  enterprise,  and  education.”  Having  learned  that  there 
were  indications  of  iron  ore  seven  miles  above  here  upon  the  Presqu 
Isle,  I sent  Mr.  Hodge,  with  Louis,  in  a canoe,  to  make  explora- 
tions ; but  on  his  return  he  stated  that  there  were  nothing  but  slate 
limestone  and  greenstone  trap  rocks,  at  the  place  designated. 

A road  has  been  cut  through  from  the  Presq  Isle  to  Mars  Hill, 
fifteen  miles  distant,  and  during  winter  a sled  may  pass  by  that 
route  to  Houlton,  but  the  stumps  have  not  yet  been  cleared  away, 
so  as  to  allow  of  the  passage  of  wheel  carriages.  The  journey  may 
be  performed  on  horseback  in  one  day.  During  the  British  survey 
for  a rail-road  through  these  regions  to  Quebec,  the  engineers  spent 
much  of  their  time  in  this  vicinity,  and  erected  an  observatory  upon 
a hill  N.  75°  W.  from  Fairbanks’  house. 

A little  lead  ore  is  said  to  have  been  found  in  blasting  the  lime- 
stone and  slate  rocks,  while  erecting  the  saw  mills  on  this  river,  but 
I could  not  obtain  any  specimens,  as  the  water  was  too  high. 

Mr.  F.  says  that,  the  spring  before  last  depredations  were  carried 
on  extensively  by  British  subjects,  10,000  tons  of  timber  of  the 
Aroostook,  having  been  carried  down  the  St.  John.  During  the 
past  spring  he  thinks  that  not  more  than  3,000  tons  were  plundered 
and  sent  down  to  St.  John.  It  is  difficult  for  the  British  Warden 
of  the  disputed  territory  to  detect  these  unlawful  transactions,  for  the 
timber  is  mixed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Aroostook  with  that  brought 
down  the  St.  John,  and  thus  the  depredators  escape  detection. 

October  25th.  Having  collected  all  the  information  in  my  power, 
I left  the  hospitable  home  that  had  been  so  freely  tendered  to  my 
whole  party,  and  ran  down  again  to  the  Aroostook,  and  continued 
our  voyage  to  the  Falls  at  its  mouth,  the  distance  being  36  miles. 

The  country  now  becomes  more  elevated,  and  lofty  mural  preci- 
pices of  limestone  and  calciferous  slate  rise  on  each  bank  of  the 
river,  while  the  country  in  the  rear  is  broken,  hilly,  and  is  covered 
with  an  abundant  mixed  growth  of  forest  trees.  Good  blue  limestone 
with  calcareous  spar  veins  abounds  on  each  side  of  the  river. 

6 


42 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


At  the  Aroostook  falls,  the  water  is  very  rapid,  and  rushes  over 
ledges  of  slate  and  limestone  rocks,  for  J of  a mile.  Then  the  riv- 
er precipitates  itself  over  a steep  and  broken  ledge  of  12  or  15  feet 
into  a wide  basin  below.  The  rocks  here  are  blue  limestone  and 
slate,  in  wavy  strata,  cut  by  numerous  dykes  of  greenstone  trap,  and 
there  are  deep  “ pot-holes”  worn  in  the  limestone  by  the  grinding 
motion  of  rounded  stones,  moved  by  the  impetuous  current.  Some 
of  these  holes  are  5 feet  in  diameter,  and  4 feet  deep.  This  water- 
fall is  overhung  by  a heavy  growth  of  cedar  trees,  and  forms  a very 
picturesque  appearance  when  viewed  from  below. 

At  the  junction  of  the  dykes  with  the  slate,  the  latter  rock  is 
fused  into  honestone  and  chert.  The  strata  run  N.  E.,  S.  W.,  and 
the  dykes  cut  through  the  strata  at  right  angles,  or  run  N.  W.  and 
S.  E. 

The  short  portage  by  the  falls  is  three  quarters  of  a mile  in  length, 
and  the  road  was  very  muddy,  owing  to  the  late  rain  and  snow  storm. 
Our  boats  and  baggage  were  carried  over  this  road  by  means  of  a 
horse  and  sled,  hired  for  the  purpose. 

The  long  portage  is  much  better  than  this,  but  is  3 miles  in  length. 
The  assistant  with  the  Indian  and  the  canoe  chose  that  route,  and 
having  nothing  to  carry  but  the  canoe,  arrived  at  the  St.  John,  be- 
fore us.  On  reaching  the  river  below  the  falls,  night  set  in,  and  the 
rain  began  to  pour  in  torrents.  Fearing  to  attempt  the  passage  of 
the  rapids  in  the  dark;  we  encamped  in  the  woods  just  below  the 
falls,  and  early  the  next  morning,  ran  down  the  St.  John.  At 
the  mouth  of  the  Aroostook,  there  are  several  houses  inhabited  by 
American  and  Irish  settlers.  The  falls  are  on  the  British  side  of  the 
boundary  line,  and  will  become  valuable  for  the  purpose  of  estab- 
lishment of  saw  mills  when  the  boundary  question  is  settled,  and  the 
injunction  against  cutting  timber  is  removed,  since  the  Aroostook  ter- 
ritory will  furnish  an  almost  inexhaustible  supply  of  large  pine  tim- 
ber, and  the  St.  John  from  this  point  is  wide,  deep  and  navigable. 

Nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Tobique,  a few  miles  below 
the  Aroostook  on  an  island,  there  is  an  excellent  tavern  kept  by  Mr. 
Tibbets,  where  we  stopped  to  dine,  and  to  obtain  packing  paper  and 
boxes  for  our  specimens.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Tobique  there  is 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


43 


an  Indian  settlement,  where  a large  tribe  of  Indians  reside,  and  gain 
a livelihood  by  trapping  otter  and  beaver.  These  Indians  are  quite 
distinct  in  appearance  and  manners  from  the  Penobscot  tribe,  and 
speak  a peculiar  language.  At  the  time  of  our  arrival  there,  they 
had  just  brought  in  a number  of  otter  and  beaver,  and  were  busy 
in  preparing  their  skins,  while  we  remarked  that  they  reserved  the 
flesh  of  these  animals  for  food. 

The  Tobique  river  is  an  important  tributary  to  the  St.  John,  and 
upon  its  banks  near  the  red  rapids  (so  called  from  their  falling  over 
new  red  sandstone)  there  is  an  abundant  supply  of  good  gypsum, 
valuable  for  agricultural  use,  and  capable  of  being  extensively 
wrought  for  the  supply  of  the  Aroostook  territory. 

Since  I had  formerly  sent  the  assistant  geologist  to  make  explora- 
tions up  this  river,  I thought  it  unnecessary  forme  to  visit  the  locality, 
and  I beg  leave  to  refer  to  his  report  herewith  presented,  for  a more 
particular  description. 

October  26th.  Proceeding  down  the  St.  John,  we  stopped  at 
the  River  de  Chute,  where  I proposed  to  make  an  excursion  to  Mars 
Hill,  but  owing  to  continual  rainy  weather,  I thought  it  would  be 
impossible  for  me  to  effect  my  purpose  of  triangulating  its  height, 
and  therefore  left  Mr  Hodge  to  wait  for  clear  weather,  and  then  to 
make  the  necessary  exploration,  while,  in  the  meantime,  we  contin- 
ued our  route  to  Woodstock. 

The  assistant  having  ascended  Mars  Hill  and  obtained  the  required 
information  respecting  its  composition,  reported  that  the  mountain  is 
entirely  covered  with  forest  trees,  but  here  and  there  he  succeeded 
in  finding  the  outcropping  ledges,  which  proved  on  examination  to  be 
grau-wacke,  exactly  like  that  upon  the  Sugar-loaf  mountain,  and 
like  that  rock  belonging  to  the  regular  anthracite  coal  measures. 

On  the  summit  of  Mars  Hill,  there  is  a high  board  platform, 
formerly  used  by  the  engineers  in  their  surveys. 

On  reaching  Woodstock,  I sold  our  boat  and  some  of  our  camp- 
ing apparatus  no  longer  required  for  our  operations,  and  hired  the 
stage  coach  to  carry  us  wjth  our  specimens  and  baggage  to  Houlton, 
in  season  to  take  the  Bangor  stage  which  we  found  just  ready  to 
leave.  Our  party  being  large  we  readily  induced  the  driver  to  wait 
until  we  had  dined,  and  then  set  out  for  Bangor  by  the  route  of  the 


44  GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 

Military  Road  to  Mattawamkeag  point,  and  then  we  returned  to 
Bangor. 

The  men  were  then  paid  and  discharged,  and  when  all  due  ar- 
rangements had  been  made  for  closing  the  survey,  I took  passage 
for  Boston,  and  arrived  there  on  the  9th  of  November. 

On  reviewing  this  journal  of  observations,  it  will  be  at  once  per- 
ceived that  the  country  which  we  have  explored,  is  a most  val- 
uable territory,  possessing  every  advantage  required  by  settlers. 
Heavy  timber  offers  a reward  to  the  enterprising  timber  dealer.  A 
rich  soil,  capable  of  producing  an  average  crop  of  20  bushels  of 
wheat  to  the  acre,  and  in  some  cases  producing  from  30  to  40 
bushels,  offers  an  ample  reward  to  the  husbandman. 

Inexhaustible  supplies  of  limestone,  valuable  both  for  building  ma- 
terials and  for  agriculture  ; vast  and  inexhaustible  mines  of  rich  iron 
ore,  amid  interminable  forests  which  will  supply  an  abundance  of 
charcoal,  required  for  the  manufacture  of  the  finest  kinds  of  iron  and 
steel ; hills  and  precipices  of  fine  grau-wacke,  suitable  for  building 
furnaces  and  lime-kilns,  and  for  the  construction  of  dwellings,  as 
also  for  the  manufacture  of  mill-stones,  required  in  grinding  wheat, 
— the  country  presents  every  natural  advantage  that  might  be  re- 
quired to  call  forth  the  enterprise  and  industry  of  the  farmer  and 
manufacturer. 

Besides  this  it  is  highly  probable,  that  as  the  country  becomes 
settled,  that  important  beds  of  anthracite  may  be  disclosed  by  the 
various  excavations  made  in  the  course  of  settlement  ; for  by  sinking 
a well  or  digging  a cellar,  beds  of  coal  may  be  discovered,  that  have 
escaped  our  detection  during  a rapid  reconnoissance  of  a densely 
wooded  country,  where  the  thick  layers  of  dead  leaves,  and  the 
superficial  soil  may  have  concealed  them  from  our  view. 

When  the  new  Aroostook  road  is  open  so  as  to  afford  ready 
communication  with  that  most  valuable  agricultural  region,  the  tide 
of  emigration  will  turn  in  that  direction,  and  as  the  country  becomes 
more  populated,  it  will  successfully  resist  all  foreign  encroachments, 
and  forever  place  that  portion  of  Maine  beyond  the  power  of  foreign 
jurisdiction.  Thus  far  the  few  inhabitants  of  the  Aroostook  have 
successfully  resisted  British  jurisdiction,  and  have  maintained  their 
own  independence,  acknowledging  no  law  but  their  own  arbitration. 


1838. 


’HOUSE — No.  70. 


45 


The  present  population  is  estimated  at  from  450  to  500  persons,  and 
they  are  mostly  of  American  origin,  and  are  civil  and  correct  in 
their  deportment. 

It  is  deeply  to  be  regretted,  however,  that  while  a young  genera- 
tion is  rising  up  there,  that  they  have  not  the  advantages  of  education, 
there  being  no  schools  or  means  of  instruction  in  that  country.  I 
saw  one  religious  meeting  held  in  a private  house,  and  noted  the 
general  decorum  of  the  people  who  had  thronged  the  dwelling. 

Upon  the  shore  of  the  river  lay  a small  fleet  of  their  piroques  or 
log  canoes  that  here  serve  in  the  place  of  carriages,  which  are  un- 
known in  a region  where  there  are  no  roads. 

The  State  should  stretch  forth  its  helping  hand  to  the  inhabitants 
of  the  Aroostook,  and  afford  the  people  the  advantages  of  public 
schools,  otherwise  a vast  number  of  young  people  will  there  grow 
up  in  a state  of  lamentable  ignorance.  By  thus  taking  an  interest  in 
their  welfare  you  will  secure  their  affections,  and  their  patriotism 
will  be  exerted  in  your  behalf  whenever  any  exigency  may  arise 
calling  for  their  aid  in  the  protection  of  the  rights  of  the  State. 

I would  not,  however,  confine  our  views  to  mere  acts  of  policy, 
for  we  ought  in  justice  to  extend  to  those  people  advantages  which 
are  the  birthrights  of  all  American  citizens. 

In  the  course  of  two  years  there  will  be  a free  communication 
between  the  Aroostook  and  Bangor,  and  a great  number  of  enter- 
prising settlers  will  take  up  their  residence  there,  and  by  farming 
they  will  obtain  an  ample  reward,  and  that  region  will  become  as  it 
is  destined  by  nature  to  be  the  Granery  of  the  North. 


46 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


J\fr.  Hodges  Report  on  the  Jlllagash  Section,  from  the  Penobscot  to 
the  St.  Lawrence  Rivers. 

According  to  instructions  received  from  Dr.  Jackson,  I left  Bos- 
ton on  the  9th  June,  and  proceeded  immediately  to  Bangor.  While 
delayed  by  the  necessary  preparations  for  an  excursion  into  the  in- 
terior, I had  an  opportunity  of  gaining  some  information  in  regard  to 
the  geology  of  Howland,  and  its  vicinity.  This  town,  lies  at  the 
junction  of  the  Penobscot  and  the  Piscataquis  rivers  ; is  based  upon 
slate,  of  the  older  transition  series,  which  breaks  out  in  many  places 
on  the  banks  of  both  these  rivers.  It  is  not  of  a kind,  which  would 
answer  for  roofing,  or  writing  slates  ; but  from  the  representation  of 
Mr.  Hammatt,  and  from  specimens  I have  seen,  brought  from  near 
the  head  of  the  Ceboois,  I have  no  doubt  good  slate  may  be  there 
obtained.  The  general  direction  of  the  slate  is  N.N.E.,  S.S.W., 
and  dip  about  75°  E.S.E.  Much  of  the  township,  particularly  on 
the  borders  of  the  rivers,  is  covered,  to  a good  depth,  with  rich  al- 
luvial soil,  which  is,  however,  sometimes  heavy,  owing  to  a predom- 
inance of  clay  ; but  it  produces  large  crops  of  potatoes,  hay,  and 
grain. 

Back  from  the  streams,  the  soil  is  evidently  derived  from  the  de- 
composition of  slate,  and  being  occasionally  mixed  with  sand  and 
gravel,  presents  with  its  undulating  surface,  abundant  proofs  of  dilu- 
vial action.  The  township  is  well  watered  by  the  two  large  rivers 
above  mentioned,  the  Ceboois,  which  intersects  it,  and  by  many 
smaller  streams.  On  most  of  these,  there  are  good  water  privileges; 
two  saw-mills  are  now  in  operation. 

About  five  miles  up  the  Seboois  comes  in  a spring,  strongly 
charged  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  In  dry  seasons,  it  is  strongly 
impregnated  with  this  gas,  and  deposits  the  yellow  sub-sulphate  of 
iron  around.  The  water  is  then  powerfully  astringent  and  tonic. 

In  the  clay  near  the  banks  of  the  Piscattaquis,  have  been  found 
the  same  u cigar-shaped”  fossils,  that  are  so  abundant  at  Bangor. 
They  are  called  siphoniae,  and  are  supposed  to  be  formed  from  the 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


47 


remains  of  molluscous  animals.  In  form,  they  resemble  cigars,  and 
different  kinds  of  fruit,  and  nothing  analogous  to  them  is  now  living. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  Penobscot,  opposite  Howland,  lies  an 
extensive  level  tract  of  country,  which  has  been  entirely  burned  over 
several  times  in  the  course  of  the  last  fifteen  years.  It  extends 
nearly  to  Lincoln,  and  four  or  five  miles  back  from  the  river. 
Wherever  this  district  has  been  settled,  the  soil  has  been  found  good, 
producing  heavy  crops.  In  going  from  Howland,  to  Cold  Stream 
Pond,  in  Enfield,  we  pass  through  the  burnt  district,  to  a more  hilly 
country.  The  soil  suddenly  changes  from  a slate  to  a granite  soil. 
Boulders  of  granite,  lie  scattered  about  in  abundance,  and  the  rock, 
itself,  is  found  place  f of  a mile  west  from  the  Pond.  Granite 
forms  the  hills,  which  border  the  Pond,  and  the  slate  rocks  upon 
their  sides  are  curiously  altered  by  its  action.  They  are  changed 
into  micaceous,  alternating  with  siliceous  slate,  traversed  by  numerous 
veins  of  quartz,  and  singularly  veined  and  striped — somtimes  coated 
with  carbonate  of  lime,  and  sometimes  colored  by  oxide  of  iron.  The 
presence  of  carbonate  of  lime,  had  led  to  the  belief,  that  the  rock, 
was  limestone,  and  preparations  have  been  made  to  burn  it. 

Having  engaged  two  boatmen,  and  purchased  a batteau,  to  trans- 
port us  with  our  provisions,  &c.,  upon  the  rivers,  I left  Howland  on 
the  22d  June,  and  proceeded  up  the  Penobscot  river. 

As  Dr.  Jackson  has  since  made  nearly  the  same  tour  as  far  up  as 
Mount  Ktaadn,  I shall  pass  cursorily  over  those  places  examined  by 
him. 

I visited  one  of  the  granite  quarries  at  Lincoln,  48  miles  above 
Bangor.  The  rock  forms  a hill  of  about  three  acres,  a mile  and  a 
half  E.N.E.  from  the  village  on  the  road  to  Lee.  Other  hills  in  the 
neighborhood  are  of  the  same  formation  ; but  the  rock  has  been 
opened  at  only  one  other  locality,  a mile  beyond  this.  From  the 
two  quarries,  at  least  a thousand  tons  of  stone  have  been  wrought 
within  the  two  last  years.  Part  of  this  has  been  carried  down  the 
river  on  rafts  to  Oldtown  and  Bangor,  and  the  remainder  used  in  the 
village  for  cellars  and  underpining.  This  has  been  taken  only  from 
the  surface.  Wherever  the  rock  is  exposed,  seams  are  observed 
crossing  it,  and  sometimes  veins  of  another  variety  of  granite.  By 
making  fissures  parallel  to  the  seams,  the  workmen  split  out  perfectly 


48 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


true  blocks  of  50  feet  in  length,  and  of  any  width  and  thickness 
under  four  feet  square.  The  stone  is  very  sound,  and  free  from 
iron,  retains  a sharp  edge  when  smooth-hammered,  is  of  good  grain, 
and  of  a fine  dark  color.  It  sells  in  the  quarry,  for  one  cent  per  foot, 
and  when  rough-split,  from  seven  to  ten  cents  per  foot,  according  as 
the  demand  is  for  a smaller  or  larger  quantity. 

Two  miles  south  from  Lincoln,  are  ledges  of  micaceous  and  sili- 
ceous slates,  very  much  resembling  those  at  Cold  Stream  Pond. 
Their  direction  is  N.E  by  E.  & S.  W by  W.,  and  they  are  so  nearly 
vertical,  I could  not  ascertain  their  true  dip.  As  lime  is  worth  at 
Lincoln  $4  a cask,  it  was  hoped  limestone  might  be  found  at  this 
place. 

On  the  25th,  we  reached  the  Grand  Falls  of  the  Penobscot,  and  I 
spent  the  succeeding  day  in  examinations  of  the  vicinity.  The  river 
is  here  but  a few  rods  in  width,  running  between  high  ledges  of  slate, 
over  which  it  falls  about  20  feet.  The  banks  below  the  Falls,  are 
about  the  same  height,  and  being  worn  away  by  the  action  of  the 
water,  which  in  spring  rushes  through  this  passage  with  great  velocity, 
the  edges  and  quality  of  the  rock  are  fairly  exposed.  The  strata  are 
irregular,  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  their  true  dip  and  direction. 
Just  below  the  Falls,  they  run  E.N.E.  W.S.W.,  and  dip  S.S.E. 
Haifa  mile  farther  down,  they  run  N.E.  SW.,  and  dip  N.W.  The 
slate  is  argillaceous,  and  contains  beds  of  quartz  and  Talcose  slate. 
Good  roofing  or  writing  slates,  cannot  be  obtained.  At  the  mouth  of 
Noliseemack  stream,  which  comes  into  the  river  below  the  Falls,  is 
a ledge  of  quartz  rock,  the  strata  of  which,  run  E.  & W.  The  hills 
around  are  covered  with  boulders  of  granite,  most  of  them  crumbling 
to  pieces.  Owing  to  the  swarms  of  black  flies  at  this  place,  it  was 
with  great  difficulty,  I could  make  any  observations. 

As  the  river  is  difficult  to  ascend  for  a mile  above  the  Falls,  we 
returned  to  Noliseemack,  or  Shad  Pond,  and  passed  up  the  Millino- 
ket  stream  two  miles,  to  the  foot  of  a road  which  leads  across  to  the 
Penobscot,  above  the  rapids.  Shad  Pond,  near  the  mouth  of  Milli- 
noket,  is  shallow,  and  at  this  time  we  pushed  our  boat  through  an 
acre  or  more  of  buck-beans,  (Fabia,)  which  had  taken  root  at  the 
bottom,  and  bloomed  above  the  surface  in  the  greatest  profusion  and 
beauty. 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


49 


At  the  landing,  our  boat  was  taken  out  of  the  water,  and  fastened 
with  its  freight,  upon  an  ox-sled.  We  accompanied  it  in  its  perilous 
voyage  of  two  miles,  on  foot  over  a rough  hilly  road,  filled  with 
boulders  of  granite  and  slate,  until  we  arrived  a little  below  the  foot 
of  Quakis.  This  is  a narrow  pond,  3 miles  long,  through  which  the 
current  runs  to  its  outlet.  It  is  surrounded  by  low  banks,  which 
are  covered  with  pine,  birch,  and  oak.  At  its  foot,  is  a ledge  of 
roofing  slate,  of  poor  quality.  From  Quakis,  we  continue  up  a mile 
through  quick  water  and  rapids  ; — the  river  filled  with  large  rounded 
boulders  of  granite,  and  come  to  another  small  pond  called  Elbow 
lake, — thence  through  the  North  Twin  lake,  3 or  4 miles  to  Pemadum- 
cook  lake.  The  land  on  the  borders  of  these  lakes  is  low,  and  con- 
tains no  ledges  of  rocks  ; but  its  surface  is  scattered  over  with  multi- 
tudes of  boulders  of  granite,  some  of  them  of  large  size.  The  growth 
does  not  indicate  a rich  soil,  and  what  timber  once  grew  here,  has 
been  mostly  cut  off.  Only  one  attempt  has  been  made  to  clear 
a farm  above  that  on  the  Millinoket,  and  it  turned  out  unsuccessfully. 
Excellent  brook  trout  abound  in  the  rapids,  and  are  taken  with  the 
greatest  ease,  often  almost  jumping  into  the  boat  for  the  bait,  which 
is  nothing  more  than  a piece  of  salt  pork.  They  weigh  from  a few 
ounces  to  three  pounds. 

We  were  detained  the  whole  of  the  28th,  at  the  foot  of  Perna- 
dumcook,  by  a high  wind,  which  would  not  admit  of  a batteaux 
crossing  the  lake. 

On  the  29th,  we  continued  across  the  Pemadumcook,  and  passed 
through  Ambejijis,  and  came  to  a portage  above.  After  carrying 
our  boat,  &c.,  about  eighty  rods,  we  again  put  in,  and  soon  arrived 
at  another  lake  or  pond,  called  Katepskenegan.  This  is  a long 
strip  of  water  through  which  the  river  runs  a little  east  of  south.  On 
its  western  side,  is  a high  hill  of  granite,  covered  with  immense  loose 
blocks  of  the  same  rock,  piled  one  upon  another  almost  perpendicu- 
larly. On  the  other  sides,  the  land  is  generally  low,  but  rising  to  hills 
at  a distance  from  the  water. 

A little  above  this  pond,  there  is  another  portage,  where  the  river 
falls  over  loose  granite  rocks  for  some  distance.  We  crossed  this 
on  the  30th,  and  two  miles  above,  we  were  obliged  to  carry  by  again 
on  the  western  side.  The  opposite  bank,  is  formed  of  granite,  of  a 
7 


60 


GEOLOGY  OF.  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


beautiful  variety,  lying  in  the  best  position  and  form  for  working.  It 
is  in  large  parallel  blocks,  extending  in  a N.W.  and  S.E.  direction. 
These  split  naturally  to  a very  smooth  surface,  presenting  a face  in 
which  the  materials  appear  finely  disseminated  ; the  mica  in  small 
black  scales,  the  feldspar  perfectly  white  and  pure,  and  the  quartz  in 
small  vitreous  particles.  Though  worn  for  ages  by  the  current,  and 
subjected  to  continual  moisture,  the  rock  shows  no  symptoms  of  de- 
cay or  disintegration,  as  it  inevitably  would,  if  it  contained  the  least 
iron  or  other  foreign  matter. 

Not  far  above  this,  we  arrived  at  a fifth  portage,  which  is  called 
the  Pauquakamus.  Here  we  encamped,  and  the  next  day,  the  first 
of  July,  carried  across  about  40  rods.  These  Falls  are  also  formed 
by  the  river  being  almost  choked  up  by  loose  granite  rocks.  At 
the  head  of  this  portage,  the  bank  is  a smooth  ledge  of  granite.  The 
country  around  is  more  hilly  and  mountainous.  It  is  evident  that  we 
have  arrived  at  the  great  centre  of  elevation  of  the  state  ; the  up- 
heaving of  which,  has  left  its  visible  effects  in  the  general  inclination 
of  the  strata. 

We  soon  passed  the  two  streams,  called  Aboljocknagesick, 
that  come  in  from  Ktaadn.  Being  supplied  from  the  mountain 
springs,  they  are  cool  and  clear  ; the  lower  one,  particularly,  even 
retaining  its  purity  of  color  for  some  distance  after  its  discharge  into 
the  main  river.  We  then  came  to  Gibson’s  clearing  of  80  acres  on 
the  eastern  side.  The  banks  are  from  10  to  15  feet  high,  and  the 
soil,  judging  from  the  fine  growth  of  grass  which  then  covered  the 
open  intervale,  is  very  good.  The  place  is  not  inhabited.  Among 
the  loose  pieces  of  granite,  slate,  &c.  on  the  shores,  I found  speci- 
mens of  grau-wacke,  containing  distinct  impressions  of  terebratulae. 
These  a e important  as  indi  ating,  somewhere  above,  rocks  belong- 
ing to  the  anthracite  coal  formation. 

On  the  western  bank  are  ledges  of  granite  similar  to,  though  not 
so  good  as,  that  found  at  Katepskenegan  below. 

A little  above  this  clearing  on  the  eastern  side  comes  in  the  Sow- 
adnehunk,  so  named  by  the  aborigines  from  its  running  between 
mountains.  It  is  a rough,  rocky  river,  known  only  to  a few  Indians 
and  whites,  who  have  hunted  or  explored  in  its  vicinity.  Its  last  fall 
of  a few  feet  over  a granite  ledge,  is  but  a rod  or  two  above  its 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


51 


entrance  into  the  Penobscot.  The  main  river  a little  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Sovvadnehunk  has  also  a fall  of  10  or  15  feet.  Over 
this  we  were  obliged  to  haul  our  boat  and  baggage.  A violent  tem- 
pest, which  is  not  uncommon  in  the  midst  of  these  mountains,  per- 
mitted us  to  proceed  but  a few  miles  farther  up  the  river,  before  we 
encamped. 

The  next  day  (Sunday  2d,)  I spent  in  visiting  a rocky  mountain 
which  rises  directly  from  the  north-eastern  shore.  A fire  had  for- 
merly run  over  it  and  stripped  it  entirely  of  trees.  Their  trunks 
half-burned,  lay  scattered  among  the  loose  blocks  of  granite,  which 
covered  its  sides.  Among  these  I found  numerous  specimens  of 
grau-waeke,  containing  terebratulae  and  turritellae,  greenstone  trap, 
and  a coarse  conglomerate  or  grau-wacke.  Near  the  top  of  the  hill 
I came  to  high  granite  precipices,  from  the  summit  of  which  the 
fine  prospect  amply  repaid  the  labor  of  ascending.  Ktaadn  still  re- 
taining a little  snow  in  its  northern  valley,  seemed  directly  above,  and 
Double-capped  Mt.,  or  Outop,  as  if  one  might  step  across  to  its  sum- 
mit, though  between  lay  hills  and  vallies,  among  which  I could  trace 
the  first  meanderings  of  the  Sovvadnehunk  and  other  streams,  not 
yet  explored  nor  named.  On  the  other  side,  the  Penobscot  was 
distinctly  visible  for  a long  distance  above  and  below,  sometimes, 
however,  lost  among  the  hills,  through  which  it  wound  its  way,  and 
then  widening  out  into  large  lakes.  Of  these  Chesuncook  was  re- 
markable by  its  apparently  high  level.  On  every  side  rose  hills  be- 
hind hills,  most  of  them  covered  with  forests,  and  washed  at  their 
base  by  some  river  or  stream. 

On  the  third,  we  continued  up  the  river,  passing  by  a rough  coun- 
try. Twice  we  were  compelled  to  carry  our  boat  over  portages, 
one  of  which  was  100  rods  long,  where  no  path  was  cut  out.  The 
hills  are  all  composed  of  granite,  and  most  of  them  burned  over. 
The  granite  often  lies  in  regular  sheets,  running  N.W.  and  S.E. 
In  the  aftern  on  we  arrived  at  the  font  of  the  Rippogenus  portage, 
known  as  the  most  difficult  on  the  Penobscot  River.  It  is  three 
miles  in  length,  by  a long  series  of  rapids,  the  path  is  not  cut  out, 
and  is  almost  impassable  by  reason  of  rocks,  burnt  trees  and  bushes. 
We  carried  one  load  half  a mile  in  the  midst  of  a hard  rain,  and  en- 
camped in  an  old  deserted  log-hut. 


52 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


The  4th  and  5tl^of  July  were  spent  in  carrying  our  provisions, 
&c.,  across  this  portage.  The  men  succeeded  by  great  risk  and  ex- 
ertion in  getting  the  batleau  up  by  water  to  the  foot  of  an  island  near 
Rippogenus  Lake.  On  the  sixth  they  cut  a path  across  the  island, 
half  a mile,  carried  over  the  boat,  and  we  proceeded  nearly  a mile 
up  the  lake  to  a clearing,  where  we  found  a log  hut  and  two  men. 
They  were  living  here  to  raise  hay  and  supplies  for  the  lumbermen 
who  might  log  on  the  river  during  the  coming  winter. 

On  the  7th,  I visited  the  island  above  mentioned,  and  the  falls,  to 
examine  the  rocks  more  particularly.  Rippogenus  lake  is  about  two 
miles  long  at  its  lower  extremity,  nearly  barred  by  high  hills. 
Through  these  the  river  has  made  its  way,  rushing  among  them  for 
two  or  three  miles  in  one  almost  continued  fall.  A little  below  the 
lake,  the  current  is  divided  by  the  island,  on  each  side  of  which, 
compressed  to  a few  feet  in  width,  it  rushes  impetuously,  sometimes 
under  perpendicular  banks  of  slate  60  feet  high,  and,  on  the  south- 
ern side  of  the  island,  over  surfaces  of  trap  ledges,  worn  into  hills 
like  rolling  waves.  The  slate  on  the  island  dips  S.S.  W.  At  the 
lower  part  of  the  island,  and  on  the  main  shore  opposite,  the  slate 
contains  beds  of  grey  limestone.  Some  of  this  is  changed  by  the 
action  of  the  trap  into  a good  Hydraulic  limestone  ; and  some  huge 
masses  apparently  raised  up  by  trap-rocks,  are  filled  with  madre- 
pores or  corallines,  which  being  worn  distinct  by  the  action  of  the 
current,  give  to  the  rock  a curious  honey-combed  appearance. 
Some  of  the  limestone  is  formed  into  a curious  breccia.  This  is 
the  locality  called  in  Greenleaf’s  description  of  Maine,  u a quarry 
of  fine  statuary  marble !”  At  the  foot  of  the  lake,  on  the  north 
side,  rises  a rocky  bluff  70  feet  perpendicularly,  extending  back  to 
a great  height.  At  its  base  the  compact  siliceous  rock  runs  E.S.E., 
W.N.W.,  and  dips  28°  N.N.E.  Directly  over  it  the  same  rock 
runs  in  the  same  direction,  and  is  nearly  vertical.  Upon  the  hills 
back  are  ledges  of  slate,  much  of  which  is  of  the  kind  called  novac- 
ulite,  suitable  for  whetstones. 

At  the  rapids  between  Rippogenus  and  Chesuncook  lakes,  are 
ledges  of  quartz  rock;  strata  contorted,  general  dip  70°  E.S.E. 
Beyond  are  banks  20  feet  high,  formed  of  a green  slate.  It  covers 
the  country  back  from  the  river,  which  is  completely  burned  over 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


53 


and  destitute  of  soil.  The  strata  are  much  contorted,  and  the  slate 
crumbling — its  general  direction  is  N.E.,  S.W.,rdip  60°  S.E.  At 
the  foot  of  Chesuncook  are  ledges  of  porphyritic  greenstone,  and 
quartz  rock,  dipping  80°  S.E.  by  S. 

Chesuncook  lake  is  a fine  sheet  of  water,  extending  N.E.  and  S. 
W.  18  miles,  and  about  2 miles  in  width.  There  are  no  islands  in 
it ; the  country  around  is  low  and  flat,  and  the  banks  formed  of  sand 
and  gravel,  seldom  exceeding  six  feet  in  height.  Among  the  loose 
stones,  I found  specimens  of  coarse  grau-wacke,  slate,  quartz  rock, 
and  a few  large  boulders  of  good  limestone.  At  the  upper  extremity 
of  the  lake  are  ledges  of  siliceous  slate  dipping  75°  N.  W.,  and  argil- 
laceous slate  dipping  from  40°  to  80°  N.W.  These  last  come  out 
in  slabs  like  grave-stones,  and  are  scattered  in  every  direction  over 
the  shores. 

The  west  branch  of  the  Penobscot  and  the  Umbazookskus  come 
into  the  lake  very  near  each  other  ; the  one  flowing  from  the  west, 
and  the  other  from  the  north.  A clearing  has  been  made  at  the  head 
of  the  lake,  on  land  belonging  to  the  state,  and  some  timber  cut. 
There  is  not,  however,  much  good  timber  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

Having  determined  to  visit  Moosehead  lake,  before  proceeding  to 
the  St.  John  waters,  I continued  up  the  west  branch  to  the  lower 
carry  into  that  lake.  The  river,  for  a few  miles  above  Chesuncook,  is 
sluggish,  and  the  country  around  scarcely  rises  above  its  level.  It  is 
covered  with  a thick  growth  of  cedar,  spruce,  birch  and  fir,  to  which 
its  black,  muddy  soil  seems  well  adapted.  We  soon,  however,  leave 
this,  and  come  to  banks  of  a fine  blue  clay,  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet 
high.  Near  by  are  rapids,  where  the  river  runs  violently  over  the 
ledges  of  slate,  which  form  its  bed.  These  run  E.N.E.,  W.S.W, 
and  dip  60°  N.N.W.  Banks  of  clay  and  loam  then  prevail,  with 
occasional  ledges  of  slate,  which  dip  from  the  North  to  N.N.W.  70°. 
For  twelve  miles  below  the  ]ow7er  portage,  there  is  not  a ledge  of 
rock.  The  boulders  in  the  river  are  principally  of  slate  and  quartz 
rock. 

Fine  forests  of  hard  \yood  border  the  river,  and  on  the  hills  is 
much  good  pine  timber  intermixed.  The  soil  is  excellent,  and  the 
country  in  every  respect  well  adapted  for  settling.  Tracks  of  moose, 
resembling  those  of  oxen,  were  very  abundant  in  the  banks  ; many 


54 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


apparently  just  made  by  the  animal  coming  down  into  the  water. 
The  river  varies  much  in  depth  and  rapidity  ; running  rapidly  over 
the  gravel  beds,  where  it  is  always  shoal ; and  being  comparatively 
still  and  tranquil  in  deep  water. 

The  upper  carry  is  about  eight  miles  above  the  lower,  and  between 
them  are  rapids  and  falls.  At  the  lower  one,  where  we  stopped, 
the  river  is  about  2i  miles  from  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  the 
country  between  is  so  low,  that  in  freshets  the  water  from  the  lake, 
which  is  somewhat  higher  than  the  river,  is  said  to  find  its  way 
across,  and  flow  into,  the  Penobscot.  As  this  portage  is  much  used 
by  people  passing  to  Madawaska,  a road  has  been  cut  by  the  state, 
for  their  benefit,  and  for  the  convenience  of  supplying  exploring  par- 
ties. It  is  now  out  of  repair,  muddy,  and  encumbered  by  fallen  trees 
and  bushes. 

On  the  12th  of  July  we  brought  our  boat,  provisions,  and  utensils 
over,  and  paddled  half  way  to  the  foot  of  Moosehead  lake.  The 
wind  blew  strong  against  us  both  this  day  and  the  next,  and  it  was 
only  by  running  great  risk  of  filling  our  boat,  and  by  hard  labor,  that 
we  were  able  to  reach  Gower’s,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  on  the  night 
of  the  thirteenth.  Here  I remained  three  days,  expecting  farther 
instructions  from  Dr.  Jackson.  I spent  the  time  in  examining 
around  the  lake.  Its  whole  extent  from  N.  to  S.  is  about  40  miles, 
and  varies  in  width  from  one  to  6 or  8 miles.  It  is  very  irregular  in 
shape,  owing  to  its  deep  coves,  bays,  and  islands  which  in  some 
parts  almost  fill  the  lake.  Many  of  these  are  mere  ledges  of  slate, 
covered  with  a scanty  growth  of  cedar  and  fir,  rising  perpendicular- 
ly from  the  surface  of  the  water,  which  falls  suddenly  to  a great 
depth,  by  their  sides.  Others  are  large  islands  of  many  acres,  well 
wooded,  and  bordered  by  beaches  of  sand,  as  well  as  by  ledges  of 
rock.  On  the  eastern  side,  a few  miles  from  the  foot  of  the  lake, 
rises  a high  rocky  point  called  Burnt  Jacket.  It  is  composed  of  gneiss, 
curiously  crossed  in  every  direction  by  veins  of  quartz.  Its  sides 
are  covered  with  huge  blocks  of  gneiss,  which  have  fallen  from  the 
top,  forming  long  dens  and  passages  between  them.  One  of  these 
blocks  was  coated  with  a layer  of  quartz  and  feldspar,  in  which  I dis- 
covered distinct,  though  poor,  crystals  of  black  tourmaline  and  anda- 
lusite.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  immediately  over  the  water,  is  a de- 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


55 


composing  vein  of  a coarser  kind  of  gneiss,  which  contains  some 
pretty  good  crystals  of  the  black  tourmaline,  feldspar,  and  mica. 

Not  far  from  this  locality,  on  the  eastern  point  of  Deer  island,  oc- 
curs siliceous  slate  coutaining  beds  of  quartz.  The  strata  run  E.  and 
W.  and  dip  65°  N.  A few  rods  to  the  north,  the  same  slate  dips 
as  many  degress  to  the  south. 

On  a small  low  island  N.  W.  from  Moose  island,  I found  the  beach 
almost  covered  with  fine  black  ferruginous  sand.  It  is  the  common 
black  sand  used  in  writing.  It  lies  upon,  and  in  strata  with  the  yel- 
low beach  sand,  and  may  be  collected  in  great  abundance.  Such 
sand  is  commonly  sold  when  put  up  in  pound  papers  at  six  cents 
each.  To  obtain  large  quantities,  it  might  be  scooped  up  with 
shovels,  and  afterwards  separated  from  the  yellow  sand  by  powerful 
magnets.  Very  near  the  shore  are  boggy  holes  filled  with  water, 
which  is  coated  with  a film  of  iron.  There  are  also  ledges  of  slate 
on  this  island. 

On  the  main  land  to  the  N.W.,  occurs  calciferous  slate  in  strata, 
running  N.W.,  S.E.,  and  nearly  vertical.  It  contains  nests  of  ma- 
drepores or  corallines,  and  evidently  belongs  to  the  grau-wacke  forma- 
tion. This  calciferous  or  grau-wacke  slate  extends  a mile  along  the 
lake,  and  its  southern  extremity  gives  place  to  micaceous  slate. 
Squaw  mountain  rises  immediately  in  the  rear  of  this  locality,  and 
had  I then  known  the  report  that  pieces  of  coal  had  been  found  on 
the  mountain,  I should  have  been  much  more  unwilling  to  have  left 
so  important  a region  without  further  examination. 

But  my  directions  being,  to  continue  immediately  on  the  north- 
ward, in  order  to  obtain  a geological  section  of  the  country,  I was 
under  the  necessity  of  returning  to  the  head  of  the  lake.  Passing 
by  Mt.  Kenio,  my  attention  being  attracted  by  its  singular  appear- 
ance, I stopped  to  ascend  and  examine  the  mountain.  It  is  the  ter- 
mination of  a peninsula,  which  extends  for  some  distance  into  the  lake 
on  the  eastern  side,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Moose  river.  As  we  ap- 
proached the  mountain  from  the  south-west  it  had  the  appearance  of 
a huge,  artificial  wall  of  stone,  rising  directly  out  of  the  water.  We 
paddled  under  its  cliffs,  which  jutted  out  over  our  heads  at  a height 
of  five  or  six  hundred  feet.  Below  they  descended  perpendicularly 
ninety  feet.  The  northern  and  western  sides  are  covered  with  trees, 


56 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


and  slope,  so  that  one  can  reach  the  top  by  a path  along  the  edge  of 
the  precipice.  From  its  summit  is  enjoyed  a beautiful  prospect  of 
the  lake  with  its  islands,  and  of  the  adjoining  country,  forming  a 
most  picturesque  landscape.  The  country  to  the  northward  and  to 
the  westward  is  generally  low. — Moose  river  is  seen  making  its  way 
through  it,  and  finally  emptying  into  the  lake  on  the  opposite  side. 
To  the  eastward  it  is  more  hilly,  until  the  view  is  lost  among  the 
mountains  of  the  Ktaadn  group. 

On  looking  down  from  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  we  see  the  water 
directly  beneath  ; and  so  steep  and  overhanging  is  the  rock,  that,  by 
a single  leap,  one  might  throw  himself  from  almost  the  highest  point, 
and  strike  the  water  six  hundred  feet  below,  and  many  feet  distant 
from  the  base  of  the  mountain. 

Mt.  Kenio  receives  its  name  from  that  of  an  old  Indian,  who 
formerly  lived  and  hunted  in  its  vicinity.  It  is  a mountain  com- 
posed entirely  of  a bluish  hornstone,  like  flint,  exceedingly  hard 
and  compact.  After  long  exposure,  the  surface  of  the  stone  be- 
comes white.  At  the  base  of  the  hill,  it  is  said,  there  is  another  kind 
of  rock,  probably  greenstone  trap  ; but  the  water,  being  three  feet 
higher  than  usual,  concealed  it. 

On  the  18th  of  July,  we  reached  the  portage  at  the  head  of  the 
lake.  The  next  day  we  carried  over  our  boat  and  utensils,  proceeded 
five  or  six  miles  down  the  river,  and  encamped  on  an  island.  The 
islands  on  the  west  branch  are  numerous  ; most  of  them  are  covered 
with  a good  alluvial  soil  and  a fine  growth  of  hard  wood,  such  as  birch, 
maple,  ash,  &c.  On  the  20th,  we  continued  down  the  river,  but  with 
great  difficulty,  owing  to  the  shallowness  of  the  water,  which  had 
fallen  18  inches  in  the  course  of  the  preceding  week.  We  were  en- 
abled, however,  to  reach  Chesuncook  lake  before  night,  and  pass  up 
to  the  union  of  the  Caucomgomac  and  Umbazookskus,  where  we 
encamped. — These  two  streams,  at  their  union,  run  in  opposite  direc- 
tions ; the  one  east  and  the  other  west  ; so  that  they  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  but  one  river.  The  country  is  so  low  and  flat, 
that  their  currents  at  this  place  are  hardly  perceptible.  A lew  rods 
up  the  Caucomgomac,  the  current  is  quicker,  and  there  is  a dyke 
of  greenstone  trap  with  veins  of  carb.  lime  in  the  bank,  which  rises 
to  the  height  of  1 5 or  20  feet.  But  the  Umbazookskus  continues 


1838. 


HOUSE — No.  70. 


57 


continues  sluggish  and  shallow,  till  within  a few  miles  of  the  lake  of 
the  same  name,  from  whence  it  flows.  It  is  a smaller  stream  than 
the  other,  exceedingly  crooked,  only  ten  miles  long,  and  almost 
overgrown  with  tall  grass  and  lily-pads.  Thick  elder-bushes  cover 
its  banks,  through  which  it  is  almost  impossible  to  penetrate:  so  that 
a part  of  the  three  last  miles,  where-  the  stream  was  too  low  to  float 
the  boat,  we  were  compelled  to  wade.  A good  portage  has  been  cut 
out  by  the  state  to  the  distance  of  about  fifty  rods  ; but  had  the  same 
time  and  labor  been  spent  in  clearing  out  the  channel,  it  never  would 
have  been  necessary  to  “take  out”  on  this  stream.  The  water  is 
very  seldom  so  low  as  when  we  passed  up  ; and  even  then  the  men 
succeeded  in  wading  up  the  stream  with  the  batteau,  and  carried  only 
the  load  by  the  portage. 

Umbazookskus  is  a shallow  lake,  with  sandy  bottom.  We  crossed 
the  south-east  corner  of  it  to  the  portage,  which  passes  over  to  Pon- 
guongamook  or  Mud  lake,  the  head  waters  of  the  Allagash  river. 
These  two  lakes  are  only  If  miles  apart  ; the  country  between  and 
around  is  low,  and  covered  with  the  greatest  abundance  of  pine. 
The  timber,  however,  is  small,  as  is  generally  the  case  where  it  oc- 
curs so  plentifully  ; but  it  is,  nevertheless,  very  valuable.  We 
spent  the  night  of  the  21st  on  this  portage  ; the  next  day  passed 
over  it,  and  across  Mud  lake,  and  the  portage  of  80  rods  at  its  foot, 
the  outlet  being  too  shallow  to  float  the  batteau.  Mud  lake,  as  its 
name  indicates,  is  low  and  muddy.  Its  level  has  been  found  to  be 
fourteen  feet  above  that  of  the  Umbazookskus.  A canal  might  be 
cut,  with  little  expense  to  the  state,  across  to  some  part  of  Umba- 
zookskus pond  or  stream,  which  would  increase  that  branch  of  the 
Penobscot,  and  furnish  a means  of  getting  down  some  of  the  timber, 
which  lies  between  Mud  lake  and  lake  Pelos,  and  around  the  upper 
Allagash  lakes,  which  region  comprises  the  best  timber  land  in  the 
state.  This  is  the  only  way  by  which  this  timber  can  be  brought  to 
market,  for  the  Allagash  lakes  are  too  long  and  dead  to  allow  of  its 
being  carried  to  Madawaska.  But  this  has  already  been  proposed  by 
others. 

The  outlet  of  Mud  pond,  down  which  we  passed  on  the  23d,  is 
very  small  and  shallow  for  the  first  mile  ; almost  filled  with  rounded 
boulders  of  siliceous  and  argillaceous  slates.  Its  banks  abound  with 
8 


58 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


juniper  and  hackinetack,  and  rise  to  the  height  of  small  hills.  For 
the  last  mile  above  Chamberlin  lake,  the  stream  is  deeper  and  easily 
navigated.  This  lake,  called  also  Baamchenungamook  and  App- 
moojeenegamook,  or  Great  Cross  lake,  is  the  largest  of  the  Allagash 
lakes.  It  is  erroneously  represented  on  the  charts,  for  it  extends  in  a 
N.N.E.  S.S-W.  direction  about  twelve  miles.  The  shores  are  low, 
covered  with  gravel  and  small  boulders  of  slate  and  quartz  rock,  and 
the  country  around  is  level,  with  some  good  scattering  pines.  The 
outlet  is  three  or  four  miles  from  the  inlet,  across  a part  of  the  lake. 
On  the  banks  of  the  outlet,  close  by  the  lake,  I observed  a ledge  of 
clay  slate,  strata  running  E.  and  W.  and  dipping  to  the  S.  A few 
rods  below  is  an  island  composed  of  greenstone  trap  ; the  same  rock 
also  forms  the  bed  of  the  stream.  This  is  wide  and  quick,  but 
shallow.  At  the  island  there  is  a good  opportunity  for  building  a 
dam  across  the  stream,  and  erecting  a saw  mill.  At  night  we 
reached  the  long  string  of  lakes,  called  Umsaskis,  or  Sausage  lakes, 
and  were  detained  the  whole  of  the  24th  by  rain  storms. 

The  rain  continued  on  the  25th,  but  we  succeeded  in  going  down 
about  20  miles  to  the  foot  of  Chase’s  or  Long  Falls.  Excepting 
these  falls,  our  route  was  through  dead  water,  mostly  lakes.  The 
country  continues  low,  and  scarcely  any  hills  are  to  be  seen.  Pine 
timber  is  abundant  and  large,  mixed  with  spruce,  fir,  maple,  &c. 
On  the  western  side  of  lake  Pongokwahem,  is  a ledge  of  coarse  con- 
glomerate, or  grau-wacke.  It  is  cut  through  by  a dyke  of  greenstone 
trap,  which  runs  N.E.,  S.W.  At  point  of  contact  of  the  two  rocks, 
the  trap  is  amygdaloidal,  and  the  cavities  filled  with  calcareous  spar 
and  chlorite.  Two  miles  to  the  north  of  this  locality,  occurs  green- 
stone trap  again.  These  are  the  only  rocks  in  place  which  we  found 
on  the  lakes.  We  encamped  at  night  in  a good  log-hut,  built  the 
last  year  for  the  accommodation  of  the  surveyors,  who  run  the  line 
for  the  Quebec  and  St.  Andrews  Rail-road. 

Immediately  below  Chase’s  falls  are  ledges  of  argillaceous  alterna- 
ting with  siliceous  slate.  The  former  is  sound,  though  it  shows 
traces  of  iron  sheets  3 feet  long,  lj  wide,  and  not  more  than  J inch 
thick,  are  readily  split  out.  It  contains  beds  of  milky  quartz.  The 
strata  dip  62°  N.N.W.  It  appears  along  the  river  for  six  rods. 

The  stream  for  several  miles  below  is  filled  with  large  boulders  of 
granite,  trap,  and  a slate  altered  by  trap. 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


59 


At  the  Lower  Urnsaskis  lake  occur  micaceous  and  siliceous  slate. 
But  for  the  next  25  miles  there  is  not  a ledge  of  rock  visible.  Hills 
appear  around,  on  the  sides  of  which  pines  are  scattered  in  abun- 
dance ; the  shores,  however,  are  low,  composed  of  clay,  gravel,  and 
alluvial  soil. 

On  the  28th,  four  miles  above  the  Grand  Falls  on  the  Allagash, 
we  met  with  argillaceous  slate,  running  N.E.  b.  N.,  S.W.  b.  S. 
This  is  succeeded  by  banks  of  clay  and  gravel,  until  a little  above  the 
falls  we  find  micaceous  and  argillaceous  slate  ; and  at  the  falls  the 
latter  rock,  forming  the  entire  bed  and  shores  of  the  stream.  It  dips 
75°  S.S.E.,  is  of  poor  quality,  and  gullied  full  of  deep  pot-holes. 
At  the  falls  the  river  is  divided  by  a small  island,  on  each  side  of 
which  it  pitches  over  the  rough  slate  rocks  25  feet,  nearly  perpendi- 
cularly. The  banks  just  below  are  precipitous,  and  of  about  the  same 
height.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  has  been  burnt  over,  and  the  rough 
ledges  of  slate  appear  every  where  above  the  soil.  Through  these 
the  portage  extends  about  25  rods  on  the  southern  side.  Below,  the 
slate  dips  70°  S.E.  From  the  falls  to  the  mouth  of  the  Allagash, 
the  water  is  shallow  and  quick  ; the  immediate  shores  continue  low, 
and  are  formed  of  gravel.  Before  we  reach  the  mouth,  the  river 
makes  a large  bend  or  “ ox-bow,”  after  passing  which  we  find  it  ex- 
pands into  a wide  bay,  at  its  confluence  with  the  Walloostook.  This 
bay  is  filled  with  small  islands  and  their  banks  are  covered  with  a 
luxuriant  growth  of  grass. 

On  the  29th,  we  continued  down  the  St.  John,  which  is  formed 
by  the  confluence  of  the  Walloostook  and  Allagash.  It  is  a broad 
deep  river,  running  quick,  often  with  rapids  dangerous  to  small  boats, 
by  their  swell,  and  is  bordered  by  high  banks  of  sand  and  gravel, 
sometimes  ferruginous,  which  fiequently  contain  beds  of  blue  and 
yellow  clay.  Through  these  argillaceous  slate,  occasionally  appears, 
running  from  N.E.  S.W.  to  E.N.E.  S.S.W.  lj  miles  down  the 
St.  John,  dipping  to  the  S.E.  ; a little  below  75°  N.N.W.  On  the 
shores  are  boulders  of  quartz,  slate,  and  red  sandstone,  and  grau- 
wacke  in  small  pieces.  ' The  first  settlement  is  nearly  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  Francois,  16  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Allagash. 
Four  miles  farther  down  is  a rich  island,  inhabited  by  a former  citi- 
zen of  Kennebec  county.  Another,  below,  supports  a family  from 
the  western  part  of  the  state  ; while  two  other  “ Yankees  ” live  on 


60 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


the  southern  bank  of  the  river  near  by.  These,  with  Mr.  John  B#- 
ker,  who  lives  at  the  mouth  of  the  Meriumpticook,  are  the  only 
Americans  on  the  river. 

The  numerous  islands  are  composed  of  a rich  alluvial  soil,  which 
-yields  heavy  crops  of  grain,  particularly  wheat,  and  supports  a fine 
growth  of  hard  wood,  such  as  elm,  maple,  ash,  and  bass.  Most  of 
these  islands  are  taken  possession  of,  and  are  cultivated  by  settlers. 
The  intervales  in  the  upper  settlements  are  high,  and  the  country 
behind  rolls  back  in  swells,  forming  high  ranges  of  hills.  These 
abound  in  the  sugar  or  rock  maple  tree,  birch,  and  pine.  The  for- 
mer is  of  great  importance  to  the  inhabitants,  as  they  derive  from  it 
all  their  sugar  and  molasses.  At  night  we  reached  Baker’s  36  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Allagash. 

After  leaving  Baker’s  I passed  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mada- 
waska  river  ; thence  up  that  stream  to  Temiscouata  lake,  across  the 
Grand  Portage  to  a little  village  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  called  the 
Riviere  du  Loup,  and  returned  down  the  St.  Francois  to  the  St. 
John  again. 

On  the  St.  Francois  our  boat  was  overturned,  and  I lost,  together 
with  our  provisions  and  a part  of  our  baggage,  most  of  my  notes  for 
the  preceding  fortnight.  I have  restored  them  as  well  as  I was  able 
from  memory. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Meriumpticook  to  the  Madawaska  river  is 
twelve  miles.  The  banks  are  generally  high,  composed  of  gravel 
and  clay,  and  the  same  kind  of  slate  so  common  above.  The  stream 
is  swift,  and  the  country  around  hilly  ; there  are,  however,  fine  in- 
tervales on  the  borders.  These  are  taken  up  by  French  settlers, 
many  of  whom  have  already  become  wealthy  in  this  country. 

Excepting  the  fall  near  the  mouth,  we  found  the  Madawaska  a fine 
stream  to  navigate,  the  water  being  rather  high,  and  running  with  a 
gentle  current.  The  country  on  the  western  side  is  hilly,  but  the 
banks  seldom  exceed  twelve  feet  in  height.  They  are  generally  not 
more  than  eight  feet  high,  are  composed  of  loam  and  sand. 

On  the  eastern  side  the  country  often  extends  ! ack  into  rich  inter- 
vales. Ledges  of  rock  occur  only  in  three  places  below  the  lake, 
and  are  argillaceous  slate,  running  N.E.  S.W.  and  nearly  verti- 
cal. The  forests  are  entirely  of  the  u black  growth  hardwood 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


61 


is  scarce,  and  pine  not  abundant.  There  are  about  fifteen  houses 
on  the  river  which  belong  to  the  Canadian  French. 

We  arrived  at  Temiscouata  lake  on  Friday,  August  4th.  This  is 
24  Miles  N.  from  the  St.  John,  and  extends  nearly  N.  about  24 
miles  farther.  High  hills  generally  well-wooded  surround  the  Lake 
on  all  sides,  but  they  do  not  abound  in  pines,  although  there  are 
enough  to  employ,  every  winter,  a lumbering  party  from  Madawaska. 
The  territory  for  six  miles  around  the  Lake  was  granted  by  the 
French  to  Col.  Frazier,  who  lived  on  the  west  side,  near  the  foot  of 
the  Grand  Portage.  He  died  the  last  spring,  and  a part  of  it  now 
belongs  to  citizens  of  Maine.  At  the  foot  of  the  Lake  is  a ledge  of 
argillaceous  slate,  running  N.E.  b.  E.,  S.W.  b.  W.,  which  contains 
a little  graphite.  Several  other  similar  ledges  occur  on  the  western 
side  of  the  Lake,  and  one  of  a coarse  conglomerate  or  grau-wacke. 
On  the  eastern  side,  opposite  the  foot  of  the  Portage,  is  a high  preci- 
pitous hill,  composed  of  grau-wacke  slate  lying  in  a nearly  vertical 
position,  and  having  a N.E.  and  S.W.  direction.  At  its  base  are 
ledges  of  grau-wacke,  which  are  filled  with  madrepores.  They  are 
so  numerous  that  the  rock  has  been  burned  for  lime,  and  plastering 
made  from  it,  when  all  the  lime  was  derived  merely  from  the  coral- 
lines. We  have  thus  again  arrived  at  the  grau-wacke  formation  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Ktaadn  mountains,  the  centre  of  elevation. 

Temiscouata  lake  and  the  Madawaska  river  are  of  the  greatest 
importance  to  the  state  of  Maine,  and  to  Great  Britain.  By  this 
route  the  most  ready  communication  may  be  had  from  Madawaska 
to  the  sea-coast.  It  is  also  the  most  direct  route  between  New 
Brunswick  and  Lower  Canada  ; their  mail  traverses  it  regularly. 
Nearly  all  the  supplies  for  Madawaska  come  from  the  St.  Law- 
rence ; first  across  the  Grand  Portage,  a road  cut  by  the  English 
from  St.  Andre  to  Temiscouata  Lake,  40  miles  ; and  thence  by 
boats  to  the  St.  John.  There  is  much  more  travelling  here  than 
is  generally  supposed.  The  day  before  we  reached  the#  Portage, 
there  arrived  twenty-one  horses  and  carts,  with  supplies  for  the 
Great  Falls  on  the  St.  'John.  Families  of  emigrants  are  also  con- 
tinually passing  over  ; we  met  several  on  the  road  with  their  loads 
of  furniture  moving  from  Canada. 

Having  learned  that  there  was  a piroque  or  French  log-canoe  on 


62 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


the  St.  Francois,  which  I could  probably  purchase,  I left  the  balteau 
at  the  Lake,  with  directions  that  it  should  be  sent  down  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Madawaska,  by  some  trustworthy  traveller,  and  set 
out  to  cross  the  Portage,  on  the  6th  of  August,  our  baggage  in  one 
of  the  French  carts,  which  was  returning  ; ourselves  on  foot.  My 
object  in  going  to  a settlement  was  to  obtain  a new  supply  of  pro- 
visions, which  could  not  be  procured  in  Madawaska. 

For  the  first  four  or  five  miles  the  road  passes  through  a tract  of 
burnt  lands  ; the  growth  is  spruce,  cedar,  fir,  &c.;  the  surface  un- 
even with  no  high  hills.  The  country  then  becomes  more  rough  ; 
the  road  passing  over  hills  of  considerable  elevation,  and  through 
deep  swamps.  Many  of  the  hills  abound  with  fine  sugar  maple 
trees,  and  the  country  is  adapted  for  settling  ; but  the  present  inhab- 
itants choose  those  spots,  which  are  not  encumbered  with  hard  wood, 
and  are  the  most  easily  cleared.  I noticed  only  one  ledge  of  rock 
this  day,  which  was  slate  about  six  miles  from  the  Lake. 

We  reached  the  first  house  at  night,  having  come  sixteen  miles. 
The  inhabitants  were  uneducated  French  people,  who  knew  little  of 
what  was  passing  excepting  on  the  Grand  Portage.  They  express- 
ed much  surprise  when  I told  them  the  ground  they  lived  upon  was 
in  dispute  between  Great  Britain  and  u the  States.” 

The  next  day  we  continued  our  journey  ; but  owing  to  the  bad 
state  of  the  road  the  horse  could  get  along  but  slowly.  I therefore 
left  him  and  the  men  to  make  the  best  of  their  way,  while  I con- 
tinued on.  After  travelling  a little  more  than  a mile  I came  to 
ledges  of  red  and  green  slate  in  alternating  beds,  their  direction  is 
N.N.E.,  S.S.W.  dip,  75°  E.S.E.  Five  miles  farther  on  is  the 
St.  Francois  ; it  is  little  more  than  a brook,  where  the  road  crosses 
it.  Beyond  this  for  two  or  three  miles  in  extent,  the  surface  is 
at  intervals  formed  entirely  of  rounded  boulders  of  quartz  rock. 
Their  average  size  is  not  far  from  eighteen  i ches  in  diameter,  and 
they  lie  one  upon  another,  and  exposed  as  if  they  once  formed  the 
bottom  of  mountain  torrents  or  large  streams.  . 

Six  miles  west  from  the  St.  Francois,  the  road  crosses  a consid- 
erable stream,  running  to  the  north,  and  emptying  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence. It  is  called  the  Riviere  Verte.  Its  banks,  at  the  portage,  are 
15  or  20  feet  high,  and  composed  entirely  of  red  slate.  The  water 
is  colored  red,  as  are  all  the  brooks  which  flow  through  this  soil. 


1838. 


HOUSE — No.  70. 


63 


In  this  vicinity  are  the  ranges  of  high  lands  which  separate  the  wa- 
ters running  north  from  those  running  south.  They  form  some  high 
hills,  which  extend  in  a N.  and  S.  direction,  so  that  the  road  crosses 
them  all.  They  are  not  difficult  to  cross,  but  have  been  considered  of 
sufficient  elevation  to  receive  names,  as  La  Fourche,  Mt.  La  Verte, 
&c. 

When  within  four  miles  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  I came  out  upon  an 
extensive  plain,  covered  with  fields  of  grass  and  grain,  houses  and 
barns.  It  is  a thickly  settled  spot  for  more  than  a mile.  The  inhabi- 
tants are  poor,  living  on  the  coarsest  fare.  Every  one,  however,  owns 
one  or  two  good  Canadian  horses  an^  cows.  I stopped  at  one  of 
the  houses  to  obtain  something  to  eat.  A large  tin  pan  of  “ bonny 
clabber  ” and  a huge  crust  of  sour  brown  bread  were  set  before  me, 
these  were  all  the  house  afforded,  and  nearly  all  that  the  inhabitants 
require.  Walking  without  food  for  eight  hours  enabled  me  to  do 
ample  justice  even  to  this.  I hired  the  man  of  the  house  to  take  me 
on  to  the  Riviere  du  Loup,  in  his  cart.  The  distance  was  nine 
miles,  and  it  would  be  necessary  for  him  to  return  late  in  the  even- 
ing ; for  this  he  charged  80  cents. 

When  we  first  came  in  sight  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  the  top  of 
a high  hill  the  view  was  most  striking,  and  much  more  interesting  to 
me  from  having  been  shut  up  in  the  woods  for  the  two  previous 
months.  Directly  below  us  lays  the  broad  river,  extending  across 
9 or  10  miles,  its  surface  broken  by  a few  islands  and  reefs  ; and  two 
ships  riding  at  anchor  near  the  shore.  Beyond,  extended  ranges  of 
uncultivated  hills,  parallel  with  the  river.  The  sun  was  just  going 
down  behind  them,  and  gilding  the  whole  scene  with  its  parting  rays. 
St.  Andre  is  the  name  of  the  first  parish  ; it  contains  few  houses. 
Riviere  du  Loup,  the  parish  six  miles  below,  is  much  larger;  it  con- 
tains about  a hundred  houses,  and  a catholic  church.  We  passed 
the  river  of  the  same  name,  a broad  shallow  stream,  a mile  or  two 
back  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  thence  over  several  hills  to  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  along  its  side,  a part  of  the  way  under  a precipitous 
bank  of  grau-wacke  on  ©ur  right,  twenty  or  more  feet  high.  This 
rock  forms  curious  ridges,  running  parallel  with  the  river,  and  at  con- 
siderable distances  from  each  other.  The  stratification  is  irregular, 
as  if  it  had  been  once  disturbed.  The  principal  street  is  through  the 


64 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


plateau  between  two  of  these  ridges.  Directly  above  it  the  rock  lies 
in  large  tabular  masses,  the  seams  of  stratification  inclining  in  different 
directions.  These  lie  in  the  second  ridge  from  the  river. 

I was  detained  here  three  days,  the  S,  9,  and  10th  of  August. 
The  two  last  days  it  rained  almost  incessantly.  I was  treated  with 
great  hospitality  and  kindness  by  Mr.  Davidson,  who  has  charge  of 
the  saw-mills  at  the  falls  of  the  Riv  du  Loup,  and  of  all  the  business 
of  supplying  the  English  ships  with  deal  from  this  place.  These 
falls  are  a mile  back  from  the  St.  Lawrence  ; in  this  distance  the 
river  descends  at  least  150  feet  ; about  70  feet  at  the  second  pitch, 
above  which  there  is  a mill.  The  view  is  very  striking  and  romantic, 
— the  river  falling  with  a continued  roar  over  this  high  precipice,  and 
afterwards  rushing  between  higher  banks  of  slate,  through  which  it 
has  excavated  for  itself,  a narrow  passage,  and  which  now  rise  per- 
pendicularly above  it  from  60  to  100  feet.  The  slate  is  of  the  red 
and  greenish  kinds  noticed  above  ; it  easily  crumbles,  and  is  worn 
away  by  the  current.  The  saw-mill  is  supplied  with  timber  from  the 
head  of  the  Riviere  du  Loup,  where  it  is  in  great  abundance,  as  it  is 
around  the  head  of  the  Riviere  Verte. 

After  it  is  cut  into  deal,  or  thick  plank,  it  is  conveyed  to  near  the 
mouth  of  the  river  in  a sluice,  which  is  a mile  and  a quarter  long,  in 
fourteen  minutes.  It  is  thence  carried  in  large  batteaux  to  the  ships 
in  the  stream.  Lumber  is  exported  from  the  provinces  in  the  form 
of  deal,  partly  on  account  of  the  convenience  of  stowage,  but  princi- 
pally to  avoid  the  high  duties  on  boards,  clapboards,  and  shingles. 
After  the  deal  has  arrived  in  Europe,  it  is  most  of  it  sawed  again, 
each  piece  into  five  boards. 

The  land  on  the  St.  Lawrence  is  good,  and  pretty  well  cultivated. 
Along  the  river  are  fine  meadows,  which  yield  abundant  crops  of 
grain,  and  both  salt  and  English  hay.  This  vicinity  is  not  so  subject 
to  frost,  as  the  country  back.  The  large  plain  I passed  over,  nine 
miles  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  produced  the  heaviest  crops  of  grass 
I have  ever  seen  ; but  their  grain  is  almost  sure  to  be  cut  off. 

On  the  11th  we  returned  as  far  as  the  St.  Francois, — 21  miles. 
The  rains  had  flooded  the  country,  and  the  last  nine  miles  were  al- 
most impassable.  I found  on  the  road  the  owner  of  the  piroque, 
which  I purchased,  and  at  night  we  encamped  on  the  St.  Francois. 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


65 


This  river,  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  Grand  Portage  is  a small 
stream,  but  being  now  flowed  by  the  rains,  may  be  ten  or  twelve 
feet  across.  In  descending  we  find  it  often  very  narrow  and  shoal, 
hardly  able  to  float  our  canoe  ; and  overgrown  for  miles  with  elder 
bushes,  and  obstructed  by  jams  of  trees,  and  full  of  crooks  and  turns, 
through  all  which  the  current  would  hurry  us  much  swifter  than  is 
at  all  consistent  with  safety.  The  country  around  is  low  and  flat, 
producing  only  spruce,  juniper,  fir,  cedar,  and  some  birch.  About 
twelve  miles  below  the  portage  appear  two  ledges  of  quartz  rock, 
running  N.E.  and  S.W.  very  compact  and  hard.  As  we  came 
rapidly  round  a sharp  turn,  not  far  from  seventeen  miles  below  the 
Grand  Portage,  our  canoe  was  suddenly  brought  up  by  two  fir  trees, 
lying  across  the  stream.  Their  thick  branches  prevented  her  going 
through  ; she  came  round,  filled,  and  rolled  under.  We  remained 
in  the  trees.  That  night  and  the  next  morning  we  collected  what 
we  could  find  of  our  provisions  and  baggage,  and  as  there  was  not 
a day’s  allowance  of  the  former,  we  were  compelled  to  hurry  through 
to  Madawaska,  as  fast  as  possible.  We  passed  down  twelve  miles 
with  the  current,  as  rapid  as  it  was  above,  more  crooked,  and  much 
obstructed  by  jams.  We  then  came  to  a large  lake  about  eight 
miles  long  and  one  wide.  It  was  surrounded  by  hills,  on  which  pine 
grew  abundantly,  but  of  small  size.  The  shores  were  hid  by  the 
water,  which  extended  up  among  the  trees.  We  passed  through 
this  lake,  about  eight  miles  below,  and  encamped.  Pine  continued 
plenty  all  the  way  from  the  lake,  and  balm  of  gilead,  and  ash, 
abound  on  the  banks. 

On  the  14th,  we  crossed  another  lake  about  four  miles  long,  soon 
after  three  in  a string,  like  the  Umaskis  or  Sausage  lakes,  and  at 
night  another,  five  miles  long,  and  encamped  at  the  foot.  We  were 
obliged  to  make  one  portage  of  a quarter  of  a mile  by  a jam.  The 
country  through  which  we  passed  is  poor  for  settling,  but  rich  in 
pine  timber.  The  banks  vary  much  in  height,  being  for  two  miles 
on  the  western  side  of  the  river  from  fifteen  to  thirty  feet  high, 
while  the  opposite  shorq.  is  little  above  the  water.  They  are  com- 
posed of  sand  and  gravel  and  a little  clay.  Argillaceous  slate  occurs 
in  one  place,  which  is  at  least  40  miles  below  the  last  ledge  we 
9 


66  GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 

passed.  The  strata  run  N.E.  b E.,  S.W.  b W.,  and  are  nearly 
vertical. 

The  next  day  we  arrived  early  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Francois, 
which  is  six  miles  below  the  last  lake.  Soon  after  we  reached 
Mr.  HunnewelPs,  on  Sugar  Isle,  where  we  were  liberally  supplied 
with  every  thing  we  required.  We  then  continued  down  to  Mr. 
Baker’s. 

The  distance  from  the  Grand  Portage  to  the  St.  John,  following 
the  course  of  the  St.  Francois,  cannot  be  far  from  eighty-five  miles  ; 
in  a direct  line  not  much  more  than  half  this  distance.  It  is  upon 
the  whole,  a good  pine  country,  and  thei*e  are  some  excellent  water 
privileges  at  the  outlets  of  the  lakes  ; the  best  of  these  I noticed 
was  taken  possession  of  by  the  usual  way  of  felling  trees  around. 
But  the  poor  soil,  and  difficult  navigation  of  the  waters,  are  great 
objections  to  this  region.  On  the  lower  lake,  there  has  already  been 
some  timber  cut.  I find  the  inhabitants  every  where  are  not  scrupu- 
lous in  cutting  timber  on  the  public  lands. 

About  fourteen  miles  up  the  Meriumpticook  occur  argillaceous 
slates  ; which  according  to  Mr.  Baker’s  account  may  be  obtained  in 
large  thin  sheets. 

On  the  17th,  we  continued  down  the  St.  John.  At  the  mouth 
of  Madawaska  we  again  took  our  batteau,  which  had  been  sent  down 
from  Temiscouata  Lake.  The  next  day  we  arrived  at  the  Great 
Falls.  In  the  clay  bank  near  Grand  Isle,  examined  last  year,  I 
discovered  at  this  time  the  trunk  of  a large  brown  ash  tree.  It  lay 
nearly  horizontally  ten  feet  below  the  surface  and  as  many  feet  above 
the  water.  It  was  somewhat  decomposed,  but  I succeeded  in  get- 
ting out  some  large  pieces  of  it.  Near  it  were  spruce  buds,  imper- 
fectly preserved,  and  sticks  of  various  shapes. 

The  night  of  the  18th,  we  spent  at  the  Great  Falls  of  the  St. 
John.  The  next  day  we  procured  some  provisions  of  Mr.  Coffin, 
agent  and  mill-right  of  Sir  John  Caldwell,  who  assisted  us  in  every 
way,  and  then  passed  down  the  river  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the 
Tobique.  Having  been  directed  to  ascend  this  river,  in  order  to 
gain  some  correct  information  as  to  the  sandstone  and  plaster  rock, 
said  to  occur  on  its  banks,  we  left  the  St.  John  on  the  morning 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


67 


of  the  20th,  and  at  night  encamped  about  fifteen  miles  up  the 
Tobique. 

In  coming  into  the  Tobique  water  from  the  St.  John,  one  is 
struck  with  its  clear  appearance,  it  being  very  transparent  and  dis- 
tinct from  that  of  the  main  river.  The  banks  at  its  mouth  are  from 
6 to  25  feet  high.  The  Indian  village  which  is  on  the  northern 
bank,  contains  only  about  twenty  huts.  A few  roads  above  this  we 
meet  with  argillaceous  slate,  similar  to  that  so  common  on  the  St. 
John.  A mile  and  a half  above,  it  occurs  again,  for  near  half  a mile, 
forming  steep  banks  of  eighty  feet  or  more  high.  Between  these 
the  river  has  worn  out  a narrow  passage,  which  is  called  the  Narrows, 
and  which  in  spring,  when  the  water  is  high,  is  exceedingly  dangerous 
to  navigate.  At  present  the  water  is  very  shoal  ; but  still  runs  quick, 
and  the  river  abounding  in  “gravel  beds,”  makes  it  difficult  to  as- 
cend. The  slate  runs  N.E.  and  S.W.;  it  frequently  contains  small 
beds  of  white  carbonate  of  lime  ; which,  however,  are  not  of  suf- 
ficient extent  to  make  them  of  any  importance.  The  strata  appear 
perpendicular.  A mile  farther  up  they  dip  60°  S.E.  In  continu- 
ing up  the  river  I noticed  successively  ledges  of  the  following  des- 
cription. Quartz  rock  dipping  70°  N.W.  b W.  Compact  silice- 
ous rock  dipping  20°  N.W.,  and  crossed  by  seams,  resting  uncom- 
formably  upon  argillaceous  slate,  which  dips  80°  S.S.E.  Above 
this  by  a saw-mill,  which  is  six  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Tobique, 
siliceous  slate,  dipping  60°  N.W.  b N.;  very  near  this  the  same 
rock  dipping  60°  S.E.;  then  quartz  rock.  A mile  above  the  last 
we  came  to  a dam,  which  is  just  made  across  the  river  by  Mr. 
Lombard,  of  Augusta.  Here  are  to  be  erected  saw-mills,  for  which 
there  is  a fine  privilege.  The  banks  are  ten  or  fifteen  feet  high, 
formed  entirely  of  new  red  sandstone.  It  lies  in  strata  nearly  hori- 
zontal, and  where  exposed  to  the  current  and  to  the  weather  is  un- 
sound and  crumbling.  No  large  pieces  can  be  got  out.  This  is 
called  fourteen  miles  from  the  mouth.  A mile  above  we  encamped. 
The  next  day,  (21st  August,)  we  continued  up  the  river — noticed 
coarse  conglomerate  or  sandstone  overlaying  the  new  red  sandstone, 
strata  apparently  horizontal.  To  the  mouth  of  the  Wapskenheagan, 
banks  of  red  sandstone,  and  red  sand  derived  from  the  decomposition 


68  GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April,  ’38. 


of  the  rock,  continually  occur,  sometimes  rising  60  feet  above  the 
river.  A few  rods  up  this  stream  are  high  cliffs  of  red  gypsum, 
filled  with  veins  of  white  fibrous  selenite  which  vary  from  one-half 
an  inch  to  two  inches  in  thickness.  The  same  rock  appears  on  the 
Tobique,  two  miles  above,  and  the  cliff  there,  which  rises  nearly 
100  feet  perpendicularly  from  the  river,  is  probably  a continuation 
of  that  on  the  Wapskenhegan.  On  the  face  of  the  cliff  are  seen 
these  veins  of  white  gypsum,  and  also  beds  of  green  gypsum.  The 
rock  is  crumbling,  and  at  the  base  of  the  precipice  are  heaps  of  loose 
pieces  which  have  fallen  from  its  sides. 

The  rock  appears  to  dip  20°  E.N.E. 

A little  below  on  the  western  side  it  dips  20°  E.  Though  the 
plaster  rock  is  here  of  poor  quality,  it  will  answer  as  well  as  the 
best  for  fertilizing  the  soil  ; and  it  now  lies  in  heaps  ready  to  be 
thrown  into  boats,  which  in  the  early  part  of  the  season  could  navi- 
gate this  river  without  much  difficulty.  We  spent  a part  of  the 
next  day  in  searching  for  a salt  spring,  which  is  said  to  exist  some- 
where in  this  vicinity.  We  were  however  unable  to  find  it.  There 
is  little  doubt  but  that  there  is  such  a spring  near  by. 

Though  it  would  have  been  pleasant  to  have  made  farther  exam- 
inations in  this  interesting  and  important  section,  I did  not  feel  au- 
thorized to  spend  more  time  out  of  the  limits  of  the  State,  and  there- 
fore returned  immediately. 

The  islands  in  the  Tobique,  of  which  there  are  many,  are  low, 
and  covered  with  a fine  growth  of  hard  wood,  particularly  elm  ; and 
groves  of  these  trees  are  frequent  on  the  shores  of  the  Tobique. 
Hemlock  is  also  abundant  ; a tree  we  have  not  seen  any  where  else, 
excepting  on  the  Penobscot  waters.  Of  pine  there  are  said  to  be 
large  quantities  about  the  river.  This  will  soon  become  an  impor- 
tant section  to  the  inhabitants  of  Maine  ; not  only  for  lumbering, 
but  for  obtaining  plaster,  and  the  sandstone  for  linings  for  furnaces. 
Here  is  the  formation,  where  bituminous  coal  is  expected  to  be 
found,  there  being  every  indication  of  its  existing  in  the  vicinity. 


JAMES  T.  HODGE,  Assistant. 


AGRICULTURAL  GEOLOGY. 


GEOLOGICAL  ORIGIN,  DISTRIBUTION,  CHEMICAL  COMPOSITION 
AND  CAPABILITIES  OF  SOILS. 

Considering  the  vital  importance  of  a correct  knowledge  of  the 
science  and  art  of  agriculture,  upon  which  man  depends  for  his  daily 
bread,  we  shall  willingly  avail  ourselves  of  any  information  that  may 
throw  light  upon  the  principles,  by  which  we  are  to  be  guided  in 
practical  operations. 

It  cannot  be  concealed,  that  agriculture  in  this  country  is  far  below 
the  standard  attained  in  Europe,  and  that  by  their  more  scientific 
methods,  the  French,  German  and  Italian  farmers  are  enabled  to 
raise  larger  crops,  so  as  to  supply  us  with  many  articles  of  agricultural 
produce,  at  a lower  rate  than  we  have  been  able  to  grow  them  upon 
our  own  soil,  and  this  too  has  been  effected  by  people  whose  soil 
costs  vastly  more  than  ours. 

It  is  well  known,  that,  for  several  years  past,  large  quantities  of 
wheat,  barley,  indian  corn  and  beans,  have  been  imported  into  this 
country  from  France,  Germany,  Venitian  Lombardy,  Tuscany  and 
Egypt,  while,  at  the  same  time,  orders  have  been  sent  out  from 
France  for  the  purchase  of  our  refuse  bones,  and  the  bone  black  of 
our  sugar  refineries — -substances  used  in  that  country  for  improving 
the  soil.  Thus,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  French  farmers  send 
out  to  this  country  for  manure,  and  supply  us  with  bread,  while 
many  remain  ignorant  of  the  value  of  those  very  substances  so  eagerly 
sought  for  by  our  foreign  brethren  ! 

European  science  ha§  been  brought  to  bear  upon  the  art  of  agri- 
culture, and  hence  the  improvements  are  rapidly  progressing  there  ; 
while  we  have  as  yet  done  but  little  towards  the  development  of  this 
most  important  of  arts. 


70 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


I know  that  many  intelligent  farmers  decry  u book  farming”  as 
useless,  and  their  remarks  are  certainly  worthy  of  our  attention,  and 
we  may  perhaps  remove  their  objections.  Good  books  on  this 
subject  record  the  experience  of  many  excellent  practical  farmers, 
and  concentrate  all  the  information  that  is  scattered  in  various  parts 
of  the  world  ; while  at  the  same  time  they  give  general  rules  by 
which  we  are  to  be  guided  in  practice.  Where  then  is  the  objection 
that  has  been  raised  against  such  knowledge  ? It  will  be  found,  that 
there  are  few  such  books  in  existence,  although  there  are  materials 
enough  on  record  to  furnish  a good  treatise,  and  those  books  that 
have  appeared  are  deficient  in  some  of  the  most  essential  particulars, 
or  they  are  so  technical  that  those  who  are  unacquainted  with  the 
elements  of  science  cannot  understand  them.  There  are  also  imper- 
fections in  the  certificates  and  rules,  owing  to  no  analysis  having  been 
made  of  the  soils  in  question. 

So  also  our  own  farmers  are  unacquainted  with  the  composition  of 
their  own  soils.  Hence  we  account  for  the  uncertainty  of  the  results 
obtained  by  those  who  make  trials  of  new  methods  in  farming,  and 
we  ought  not  to  be  surprised  at  their  frequent  failures. 

If,  however,  all  the  conditions  of  the  problem  were  understood  by 
both  parties,  farmers  would  readily  join  hands  with  their  scientific 
co-laborers,  and  the  art  of  agriculture  would  soon  become  as  certain 
as  any  other  art,  while,  by  the  application  of  scientific  principles,  the 
business  would  become  of  a more  exalted  character,  and  assume  its 
true  rank  in  the  consideration  of  all  men. 

In  order  to  make  rational  experiments  in  farming,  it  is  essential  that 
the  composition  of  the  soil  should  be  known,  and  then  we  can  act 
understanding^  in  our  operations.  In  order  to  amend  a soil,  that 
knowledge  is  absolutely  necessary,  otherwise  we  might  destroy  its 
fertility,  by  the  processes  intended  for  its  amelioration,  and  thus  be 
subjected  to  disappointment  and  chagrin. 

Mineralogy,  geology  and  chemistry  come  to  our  aid,  and  serve  to 
indicate  the  nature  of  various  soils,  while  sure  indications  are  readily 
discoverable  for  the  amendment  of  those  which  are  sterile. 

Agriculture  is  of  so  great  importance  to  the  community,  that  we 
should  not  allow  our  knowledge  of  it  to  rest  upon  mere  empyricism. 
It  ought  to  be  exalted  to  the  rank  of  a true  science,  and  then  it  will 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


71 


become  one  of  the  most  honorable,  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  useful  of 
arts,  and  even  the  most  highly  educated  men  will  then  be  proud  to 
rank  as  scientific  farmers. 

Let  us  now  examine  the  subject  more  in  detail,  and  ascertain  how 
much  light  we  may  obtain  from  the  science  of  geology,  that  may 
serve  to  guide  us  in  our  researches. 

We  have  first  to  consider  the  geological  origin  of  soils. 

Every  attentive  person  must  have  observed,  that  solid  rocks,  ex- 
posed to  the  combined  action  of  air,  water,  and  different  degrees  of 
temperature,  undergo  decomposition  and  disintegration,  so  that  they 
crumble  into  powder,  and  that  some  rocks  decay  more  rapidly  than 
others,  owing  to  their  structure,  or  mineralogical  composition.  If  a 
rock  is  porous,  or  stratified  in  its  structure,  water  infiltrates  into  it, 
and  on  freezing,  expands  with  such  power,  as  to  tear  the  surface  of 
the  rock  to  pieces,  so  that  it  readily  crumbles.  When  fire  runs 
through  the  forests,  it  heats  the  surface  of  the  rocks,  and  by  the  ir- 
regular expansion  produced,  they  are  shivered  into  fragments. 

The  action  of  running  water  and  friction  of  stones,  also  serve  to 
grind  the  rocks  into  powder,  by  attrition  of  their  surfaces,  and  the 
detritus  is  borne  along  by  the  streams,  and  deposited  in  low  lands, 
or  along  their  borders. 

When  a rock  contains  iron  pyrites,  or  sulphuret  of  iron,  that 
mineral,  by  the  action  of  air  and  water,  decomposes,  and  forms 
copperas,  or  sulphate  of  iron,  and  the  sulphuric  acid  of  that  substance 
acts  powerfully  on  some  of  the  ingredients  of  the  rock,  and  causes 
its  rapid  decomposition.  Any  person,  who  has  been  on  Iron  Mine 
Hill,  in  Gardiner,  will  fully  understand  how  rapid  is  this  operation, 
and  may  there  see  its  results.  The  oxidizing  power  of  the  atmos- 
phere, also,  acts  powerfully  upon  the  surface  of  those  rocks,  which 
have  for  one  of  their  components,  the  prot-oxides  of  the  metals, 
iron  and  manganese,  and  as  those  oxides  take  up  another  portion  of 
oxygen,  they  increase  in  bulk,  become  brown  or  black,  and  the  stone 
falls  into  fragments. 

These  are  a few  of  the  causes  now  in  action,  which  modify  the 
solid  crust  of  the  globe,  and  it  appears  that  their  effects  are  far  more 
important,  than  we  might  at  first  imagine.  Whoever  looks  upon  the 
muddy  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  Ganges,  Po,  the  Rhine,  and  the 


72 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


Rhone,  or  reads  the  calculations  respecting  the  enormous  quantity  of 
matter  brought  down  from  the  mountains  by  those  rivers,  will  at 
once  appreciate  the  modifying  influence  of  those  causes  which  are 
continually  wearing  down  the  solid  matter  that  forms  the  mass  of  our 
mountains. 

Geology  teaches  us,  that  such  causes  were  formerly  in  more 
powerful  operation,  and  that  the  ancient  world  was,  from  its  infancy, 
subject  to  violent  catastrophes  accompanied  by  powerful  inroads  of 
the  sea  ; oceanic  currents  and  tumultuous  waves  having  for  many 
successive  periods  rushed  over  the  land,  and  beaten  the  loftiest  crags 
of  the  highest  mountains.  We  should  then  naturally  expect,  that  the 
earth  would  present  ample  testimony  of  the  action  of  these  powerful 
causes  of  disintegration  of  the  rocks,  and  we  do  observe  that  a large 
portion  of  the  loose  materials  upon  the  surface,  bears  proofs  of  aque- 
ous action  and  mechanical  abrasion.  By  those  ancient  convulsions, 
the  detritus  of  the  solid  rocks  was  prepared,  and  forming  the  various 
soils,  which  we  observe,  the  earth  was  rendered  capable  of  yielding 
its  rich  stores  of  vegetation,  on  which  a large  proportion  of  the  ani- 
mated creatures  depend  for  their  food.  From  the  foundation  of  the 
everlasting  hills,  the  Creator  began  to  prepare  the  world  for  the 
habitation  of  his  noblest  creature,  man,  and  converted  a portion  of 
the  solid  rocks  into  soils,  which  were  given  as  the  field  of  human 
labor,  and  to  the  progenitor  of  our  race  it  was  commanded  that  he 
should  till  the  soil. 

If  we  take  up  a handful  of  earth,  and  examine  it  attentively,  we 
shall  readily  discover  such  mineral  ingredients,  as  denote  the  rocks 
from  which  it  originated.  Thus  we  discover  in  a soil  numerous 
spangles  of  mica,  grains  of  quartz,  and  white  or  brown  earthy  look- 
ing particles,  which  are  felspar  ; besides  which,  we  remark  a con- 
siderable portion  of  fine  brown  powder,  which  being  examined  with 
a microscope  is  found  to  be  composed  of  the  same  minerals,  more 
finely  pulverised,  and  mixed  with  the  brown  oxide  of  iron.  It  will 
be  at  once  understood,  that  such  a soil  arises  from  the  disintegration 
and  decomposition  of  granite  rocks,  and  that  the  oxide  of  iron  was 
derived  from  the  pyrites,  or  the  prot-oxide  of  iron,  contained  in  that 
rock. 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


73 


A soil  arising  from  the  decomposition  of  gneiss,  possesses  similar 
characters,  only  the  mica  is  more  abundant. 

Soils  from  mica  slate  are  made  up  of  a large  proportion  of  mica, 
mixed  with  grains  of  quartz. 

Sienite,  and  hornblende  rock  produce  a dark  brown  soil,  in  which 
there  is  but  little  quartz,  and  a great  deal  of  felspar,  and  decomposed 
hornblende. 

-Greenstone  trap-rocks  form,  by  their  decomposition,  a brown  soil, 
which  contains  pieces  of  the  undecomposed  rock,  but  the  component 
minerals  in  the  soil  itself,  are  rarely  so  distinct  as  to  be  discoverable. 
This  soil  is  a warm  kind  of  loam,  soft  and  spongy,  easily  compress- 
ed into  smaller  dimensions  by  the  pressure  of  the  hand,  but  not  adhe^ 
sive  like  clay.  It  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  growth  of  potatoes, 
and  is  a luxuriant  soil  for  most  of  our  ordinary  produce. 

Slate-rocks  form  a soil  of  a blue  color,  in  which  numerous  unde- 
composed fragments  of  the  rock  may  be  discovered.  When  trans- 
ported by  water,  it  is  deposited  in  the  state  of  tough  blue  clay. 

Limestone  forms  various  colored  soils,  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  impurities  it  contains.  They  are  generally  of  a light  yellowish 
brown  colour,  from  admixture  of  a certain  proportion  of  oxide  of 
iron.  This  is  especially  the  case  with  those  soils  derived  from  the 
argillo-ferruginous  limestone. 

Calcareous  soils,  if  they  are  rich  in  carbonate  of  lime,  may  be  dis- 
tinguished by  their  effervescence  with  acids,  and  the  quantity  of  this 
substance  may  be  estimated  by  the  loss  of  weight  which  indicates  the 
proportion  of  carbonic  acid,  that  has  been  expelled,  and  since  the 
carbonic  acid  always  occurs  in  the  ratio  of  nearly  44  per  cent,  to  56 
per  cent,  of  lime,  it  is  easy,  by  a proportional  calculation,  to  ascer- 
tain the  quantity  of  that  mineral  in  the  soil. 

It  more  frequently  happens,  that  there  is  so  minute  a quantity  of 
carbonate  of  lime  in  the  soil,  as  to  require  a minute  chemical  analysis 
for  its  detection,  and  few  farmers  have  either  leisure  or  means  for 
such  an  operation.  Examples  of  such  analyses  will  be  presently  laid 
before  you. 

Talcose  slate  rocks,  when  decomposed,  form  a light  brown  soil, 
in  which  particles  of  the  rock  are  discoverable,  and,  on  analysis,  a 

10 


74 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


considerable  quantity  of  the  silicate  of  magnesia  is  found,  which  is 
one  of  the  chief  components  of  talc. 

Red  sandstone,  or  disintegration,  forms  soil  composed  almost  en- 
tirely of  grains  of  quartz,  with  oxide  of  iron,  and  clay,  with  a few 
spangles  of  undecomposed  mica. 

Grau-wacke,  or  conglomerate,  when  disintegrated,  produces  a light 
grey  soil,  full  of  smooth  rounded  pebbles,  which  originate  from  the 
undecomposed  components  of  the  rock. 

Red  porphyry  is  very  slow  of  decomposition,  and  forms  a bright 
red  fine  powder,  filled  with  angular  fragments  of  the  rock. 

I have  thus  distinguished  and  described  the  appearances  which 
characterise  those  soils  that  arise  immediately  from  the  decay  of  solid 
rocks,  and  various  characteristic  specimens  of  each  variety  may  be 
seen  in  the  cabinet  arranged  for  the  use  of  the  state. 

Let  us  next  consider  how  soils  are  distributed  on  the  earth’s  sur- 
face, and  see  how  their  qualities  depend  upon  their  situation. 

In  various  sections  of  this  report  may  be  seen  recorded  the  proofs 
of  diluvial  transportation  of  rocks,  far  from  their  parent  beds,  and  we 
' have  every  reason  to  believe,  that  this  removal  was  effected  by  a 
tremendous  current  of  water,  that  swept  over  the  state  from  the  north 
15°  west,  to  the  south  15°  east,  and  we  have  adduced  in  testimony, 
that  such  was  the  direction  of  that  current,  numerous  grooves,  fur- 
rows, or  scratches  upon  the  surface  of  the  solid  rocks,  in  place,  and 
have  shown  conclusively,  that  the  rocks  which  we  find  thus  trans- 
ported, proved  to  be  portions  of  ledges  situated  to  the  north  of  the 
localities  where  their  scattered  fragments  are  found. 

It  is  a matter  of  surprise,  that  such  enormous  masses  of  rock  should 
have  been  moved  so  far  by  an  aqueous  current ; but,  when  it  is  re- 
membered, that  a rock  does  not  weigh  but  half  so  much  when  im- 
mersed in  water,  as  it  does  when  weighed  in  air,  owing  to  the  sup- 
port given  it  by  the  water  around  ; and  when  we  reflect  on  the  fact, 
that  a rock  is  still  more  powerfully  supported  under  the  pressure  of 
deep  water,  it  may  be  conceived,  that,  if  a flood  of  water  did  once 
rush  over  the  land,  it  might  have  removed  large  and  weighty  masses 
of  rock,  such  as  we  find  to  have  been  the  case. 

From  the  observations  made  upon  Mount  Ktaadn,  it  is  proved, 
that  the  current  did  rush  over  the  summit  of  that  lofty  mountain,  and 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


75 


consequently,  the  diluvial  waters  rose  to  the  height  of  more  than 
5000  feet.  Hence  we  are  enabled  to  prove,  that  the  ancient  ocean, 
which  rushed  over  the  surface  of  the  state,  was  at  least  a mile  in 
depth,  and  its  transporting  power  must  have  been  greatly  increased 
by  its  enormous  pressure. 

It  will  be  readily  conceived,  that  if  solid  rocks  were  moved 
from  their  native  beds,  and  carried  forward  several  miles,  the  finer 
particles  of  soil  should  have  been  transported  to  a still  greater  dis- 
tance, so  we  find  that  the  whole  mass  of  loose  materials  on  the  sur- 
face has  been  removed  southwardly,  and  the  soil  resting  upon  the 
surface  of  rocks,  in  place,  is  rarely,  if  ever,  such  as  results  from  the 
decomposition  of  those  rocks,  but  was  evidently  derived  from  those 
ledges  which  occur  to  the  northward. 

If  an  attentive  observer  examines  the  soil  in  the  city  of  Portland, 
he  will  discover,  at  once,  that  it  is  made  up  from  the  detritus  of  gran- 
ite and  gneiss  rocks,  while  the  ledges  in  that  city  are  wholly  com- 
posed of  the  argillaceous,  talcose,  and  mica  slate-rocks,  and  granite 
and  gneiss  occur  in  great  abundance  to  the  northward. 

All  the  markings  on  the  surface  of  the  rocks,  and  the  scattered 
boulders  of  granite  and  gneiss,  which  abound  in  that  soil,  indicate  its 
origin  to  have  been  in  the  north  1 5°  or  20°  west.  I merely  quote 
the  above  locality,  on  account  of  its  being  a spot  where  most  per- 
sons will  have  occasion  to  examine  the  facts  stated.  The  various 
sections  of  the  state  present  ample  illustration  of  the  same  fact,  and 
every  one  who  will  take  the  trouble,  may  convince  himself  of  its 
reality. 

The  tertiary  deposits  of  clay,  sand  and  marine  shells,  were  evi- 
dently produced  in  tranquil  water,  since  their  strata  indicate,  by  their 
situation,  structure  and  beds  of  shells,  that  the  clay  was  gradually 
and  slowly  deposited,  allowing  time  for  the  propagation  and  growth 
of  the  various  shell  fish  in  its  several  layers.  Not  so  was  the  dilu- 
vial matter  deposited,  for  we  find  it  to  bear  marks  of  sudden  and  vio- 
lent transportation  and  deposition,  the  various  pebbles,  boulders  and 
erratic  blocks  of  stone  being  mixed  in  great  confusion.  I have  for- 
merly mentioned  a locality,  in  Bangor,  near  the  court-house,  where, 
it  would  seem,  there  are  proofs  of  a gradual  subsidence  of  the  dilu- 
vial current,  the  various  particles  becoming  smaller,  as  we  ascend 


76 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


the  embankment,  until  we  come  to  fine  clay,  which  must  have  sub- 
sided from  tranquil  water. 

We  observe,  then,  that  the  tertiary  deposits  were  cut  through  by 
the  diluvial  waters,  which  have  excavated  deep  vallies,  and  heaped 
up  long  ridges  called  horse-backs,  and  the  general  direction  of  these 
valleys  and  ridges,  coincides  with  the  direction  formerly  indicated,  as 
the  course  in  which  the  current  swept. 

Although  we  are  informed  in  the  scriptures,  that  the  deluge  was 
ordained  for  the  punishment  of  wicked  men,  it  is  certain,  that  there 
was  mercy  mingled  with  this  dispensation,  for  the  soils  were  com- 
minuted, transported,  and  mixed  in  such  a manner,  that  their  quali- 
ties were  improved,  and  rendered  more  suitable  for  the  growth  of 
plants,  so  that  new  and  more  fertile  soils  were  prepared  for  coming 
generations,  who  literally  reap  advantage  from  the  deluge. 

Besides  the  ancient  aqueous  current,  we  see  every  day  the  action 
of  water  modifying  the  surface  of  the  globe,  transporting  fine  parti- 
cles from  the  mountain-side,  and  depositing  them  in  the  valleys  and 
along  the  margin  of  running  streams.  Especially  during  freshets, 
when  the  rivers  burst  their  narrow  confines,  and  spread  out  over  the 
intervales,  do  we  see  rich  deposits  formed  of  alluvial  soil. 

Such  currents,  arising  amid  decomposing  vegetable  matters,  trans- 
port an  infinity  of  fine  particles  of  such  matter,  and  deposit  it  with 
the  various  earthy  ingredients,  which  form  our  richest  meadows,  and 
luxuriant  intervale  soils.  Thus  are  formed  many  of  those  bottom 
lands,  which  occur  along  the  river  courses  of  the  Western  States, 
and  the  banks  of  rivers  in  Maine,  under  similar  circumstances,  are 
found  to  be  composed  of  like  soils. 

A river,  coursing  its  way  amid  various  rocks,  carries  down  and 
deposits  fine  particles  of  every  kind,  which  it  meets  with  in  its  way. 

If  the  rocks  above  are  limestone,  we  shall  have  calcareous  soil 
brought  down  and  deposited  by  the  river.  So  on  the  banks  of  the 
Aroostook,  we  find  a rich  alluvial  soil,  equalling  in  fertility  the  famed 
regions  of  the  Western  States,  and  capable,  even  under  a less  genial 
clime,  of  producing  crops  of  wheat  and  other  grain,  fully  equal  in 
abundance  with  any  soils  of  which  we  have  any  records. 

That  river,  with  its  wide  and  fertile  intervales,  is  destined  to  be- 
come the  granary  of  the  North,  and  whenever  the  policy  of  the  State 


183S. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


77 


shall  complete  the  roads,  and  offer  facilities  for  settlement,  we  shall 
turn  the  tide  of  emigration,  populate  a fertile  district,  and  I trust 
forever  place  that  portion  of  Maine  beyond  the  power  of  foreign  ag- 
gression. 

Soils  are  powerfully  modified  by  the  circumstances  under  which 
they  are  placed,  and  it  will  be  useful  to  consider,  how  this  may  be 
affected  by  their  order  of  super-position. 

I have  had  occasion  to  examine  two  portions  of  a field,  in  the 
town  of  Saco,  where  the  superficial  soil  was  uniformly  composed 
of  a light  brown  sandy  loam,  and  in  one  part  of  that  field,  the  Indian 
corn  growing  upon  it,  was  tall  and  luxuriant,  while  on  the  other,  it 
was  short  and  feeble.  The  several  parts  of  this  field  were  treated 
with  the  same  kind  of  manure,  and  planted  with  the  same  grain,  in 
the  same  manner,  so  that  their  circumstances  were  apparently  alike. 
On  searching  into  the  cause  of  this  difference  of  fertility,  it  was 
discovered,  that  in  the  luxuriant  part  of  the  field,  there  was  a deposit 
of  clay,  from  one  to  two  feet  from  the  surface,  while,  in  the  other,  it 
was  four  feet  below.  Hence  it  would  appear,  that,  in  the  first  in- 
stance, the  clay  served  as  a retainer  of  moisture  and  of  manure, 
while  in  the  other,  these  indispensable  requisites  for  healthy  vegeta- 
tion, sank  beyond  the  reach  of  the  corn.  The  remedy  was  at  once 
apparent,  for  it  was  only  necessary  to  mix  clay  with  the  barren  soil, 
to  make  it  retentive. 

It  frequently  happens,  also,  that  we  observe  a farmer  toiling  upon 
a tough  clayey  soil,  which  it  is  in  vain  for  him  to  attempt  to  keep 
loose,  for  with  the  first  rain,  the  clay  is  washed  down  into  a slimy 
paste,  which  by  the  ardent  sun-beams,  is  soon  baked  into  an  imper- 
meable mass,  which  prevents  the  free  germination  and  growth  of  the 
seed.  Now,  hard  by,  occurs  a hill  of  sand,  that  nature  seems  kindly 
to  have  placed  at  his  disposal,  and  he  is  only  required,  after  plough- 
ing his  clay  soil,  to  cart  a quantity  of  sand  into  the  furrows,  and  har- 
row it  in,  in  order  to  produce  a soil  of  good  texture,  which  may 
then  be  manured  as  required,  and  will  produce  well.  In  such  cases, 
the  saud  may  be  added  every  year,  until  there  is  a sufficiency.  Such 
soils  are  highly  retentive  of  manure,  and  are  worth  the  labor  of  re- 
claiming, and  I should  denote  the  neighborhood  of  Bangor,  as  a 
suitable  field  for  such  improvements  ; and  I doubt  not,  that  the 


78 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


market  of  that  city  would,  by  its  demand,  amply  repay  the  labor  and 
money  expended. 

CHEMICAL  COMPOSITION  OF  SOILS. 

From  the  mineral  ingredients  we  may  form  some  idea  of  the 
chemical  nature  of  the  soils,  but  since  there  may  be  many  matters 
mingled,  in  the  state  of  fine  powdei;,  not  capable  of  discrimination 
by  the  eye,  and  those  very  substances  may  be  the  cause  of  its  pecu- 
liar properties,  it  becomes  necessary  to  resort  to  the  aid  of  chemical 
science,  and  analytical  art  for  their  detection. 

It  is  a strange  and  almost  unaccountable  fact,  that  while  we  have 
the  most  minute  and  delicate  analysis  of  rare  and  curious  minerals, 
chemists  have  either  neglected  to  ascertain  the  composition  of  soils, 
or  have  satisfied  themselves  with  the  most  crude  and  careless  exam- 
inations, that  do  not  answer  the  purpose  intended. 

The  late  illustrious  chemist,  Sir  Humphrey  Davy,  was  called 
upon  by  the  British  Agricultural  Board,  to  give  a course  of  lectures 
upon,  the  chemical  composition  of  soils,  and  the  modes  of  amending 
those  which  were  sterile,  and  his  lectures  contain  nearly  all  the  in- 
formation attainable  by  the  farmer  respecting  the  composition  of 
soils.  Although  Davy’s  Agricultural  Chemistry  is  as  good  an  essay 
as  we  had  a right  to  expect  when  the  art  of  chemical  analysis  was  in 
its  infancy,  and  a vast  deal  of  valuable  information  is  contained  in  it, 
still  the  analyses  are  so  imperfect,  that  they  neither  serve  to  distin- 
guish one  kind  of  soil  from  another,  possessing  altogether  different 
properties,  nor  serve  to  indicate  such  ameliorations  as  are  required. 
When  Davy  acknowledges  that  his  errors  in  the  analyses  amount  to 
5 or  10  per  cent.,  we  must  feel  convinced  that  either  sufficient  care 
was  not  taken,  or  that  the  instruments  of  analysis  which  he  used 
were  not  sufficiently  exact.  We  shall  see  in  the  analyses  that  I shall 
present,  that  an  error  of  even  one  or  two  per  cent.,  would  cause  an 
utter  failure  in  respect  to  the  information  desired,  and  shall  at  once 
perceive  the  importance  of  the  most  scrupulous  exactness  in  the  op- 
eration. 

Chaptal  has  also  given  us  some  chemical  essays  upon  agriculture, 
but  the  analyses  of  soils  are  generally  borrowed  from  the  work  of 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


79 


Davy.  It  contains,  however*  much  valuable  information  respecting 
several  different  departments  of  the  art,  and  a special  treatise  upon 
the  cultivation  of  beets  and  making  of  sugar.  This  essay  has  been 
translated  into  English,  and  is  worthy  of  the  farmer’s  attention. 

The  chemical  analysis  of  soils  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  and  te- 
dious operations  the  chemist  is  called  upon  to  perform,  and  it  seldom 
happens  that  the  processes  are  completed  within  three  weeks  from 
the  time  they  were  commenced.  Hence  the  necessity  of  my  car- 
rying on  a number  of  analyses  at  a time,  in  order  to  be  able  to  pre- 
sent them  in  season  for  this  Report.  By  operating  on  three  or  four 
specimens  at  a time,  the  chemist  is  kept  continually  employed,  and 
an  extensive  supply  of  apparatus  is  put  in  requisition,  since  the  pro- 
cesses multiply  with  astonishing  rapidity,  and  soon  every  vessel  in 
the  laboratory  finds  occupation,  and  it  is  necessary  to  label  each 
glass,  funnel  or  filter  as  he  proceeds.  Attempts  have  been  made  to 
render  the  art  of  chemical  analysis  easy,  so  that  farmers  might  be 
able  to  do  them  for  themselves,  but  such  attempts  have  been  entirely 
abortive,  for  it  would  presuppose  a knowledge  of  chemical  science 
and  manipulation  rarely  if  ever  in  possession  of  any  but  professed 
chemists,  and  it  would  be  idle  to  put  instruments  and  reagents  into 
the  hands  of  those  who  do  not  know  how  to  use  them.  It  would 
certainly  be  very  useful  to  the  community,  if  our  agricultural  breth- 
ren would  establish  a college  or  institute,  devoted  exclusively  to 
those  arts  appertaining  to  agriculture,  and  such  institutions  will  ere 
long  be  founded  in  each  of  the  States,  for  we  begin  to  see  and  feel 
the  importance  of  a good  scientific  education  among  the  farmers 
throughout  our  country,  and  our  young  men  ought  to  possess  ad- 
vantages so  desirable  and  important  for  their  welfare  and  prosperity. 
It  is  evident  that  small  schools  will  do  no  good,  since  they  would  not 
be  sufficiently  well  endowed  to  command  the  services  of  scientific 
teachers,  and  hence  if  the  attempt  is  made,  let  there  be  one  large  and 
well  endowed  agricultural  college  in  each  State,  connected,  if  found 
practicable,  with  the  usual  classical  institutions,  and  forming  a branch 
of  each  university.  Many,  who  do  not  desire  to  spend  years  in  the 
study  of  Latin  and  Greek  authors,  are  still  anxious  to  learn  the  ele- 
ments of  those  sciences  which  appertain  to  their  professions,  and  I 
have  not  the  least  doubt,  that  a well  ordered  and  scientific  agricultu- 


80 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


ral  institute  would  prove  one  of  the  most  popular  and  useful  schools 
in  the  country.  In  such  a college,  mathematics,  drawing,  surveying, 
mechanics,  architecture,  chemistry,  mineralogy,  geology,  zoology 
and  the  practical  arts,  each  in  thpir  several  departments,  might  be 
taught  by  study  and  lecture,  while  every  practical  operation  should 
be  learned  by  actual  practice. 

MECHANICAL  AND  CHEMICAL  ANALYSIS  OF  SOILS  FROM  MAINE. 

Much  information  may  be  obtained  by  mechanical  separation  of  the 
various  particles  of  soil,  and  such  I have  made  one  of  the  preliminary 
steps  in  the  operations  of  analysis. 

Three  different  kinds  of  sieves  were  selected,  the  first  of  which 
has  meshes  1-12  of  an  inch,  or  one  line  in  diameter,  and  is  made  of 
copper  wire.  The  second  is  a sieve  of  nearly  double  the  fineness 
of  the  above,  having  openings  of  the  meshes  1-20  of  an  inch.  The 
third  is  a very  fine  gauze  sieve,  with  openings  not  more  than  the  1-50 
of  an  inch. 

By  sifting  the  soil,  we  can  then  obtain  four  different  divisions  of 
the  particles,  which  I divide  into  different  grades,  beginning  with  the 
coarse  matter  left  on  the  sieve  No.  1,  and  so  on. 

After  these  operations  the  next  is  to  be  effected  by  agitating  the 
finest  soil  which  passed  the  fourth  sieve  with  a quantity  of  water,  and 
then  pouring  off  the  suspended  matter  from  that  left  at  the  bottom, 
after  J minute’s  repose.  This  gives  us  two  other  degrees  of  fine- 
ness, or  the  fifth  and  sixth  divisions. 

One  thousand  grains  of  each  specimen  was  taken  for  each  analysis, 
and  each  proportion  of  divided  matter  was  weighed  in  the  balance. 
For  example,  let  us  take  a specimen  of  a soil  from  Major  Stone’s 
farm,  in  Waterford,  taken  from  his  luxuriant  wheat  field,  six  inches 
from  the  surface. 

This  soil  is  of  a yellow  loam  of  mellow  texture  and  remarkably 
fertile,  having  on  it  a crop  of  wheat,  which  will  probably  measure 
more  than  30  bushels  to  the  acre.  This  soil  had  been  limed  four 
casks  to  the  acre,  and  was  also  manured  from  the  barn-yard  to  a 
small  extent.  One  thousand  grains  divided  as  follows: — 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


81 


No.  1 — does  not  pass  the  coarse  sieve,  and  consists  of  gravel  de- 
rived from  granite  rocks,  sticks  and  roots.  No.  1 = 175  grains. 

Does  not  pass  2d  sieve — fine  sand  and  vegetable  fibres.  No. 
2 = 240  grains. 

Does  not  pass  the  third  sieve — No.  3 = 20  grains. 

Fine  powder  which  came  through  the  gauze  sieve.  No.  4 = 565 
grains. 

No.  1=  175 

No.  2=  240 
No.  3 = 20 

No.  4 = 565 

1000 

This  fine  powder,  agitated  with  a pint  of  water,  and  turned  off  in 
30  seconds,  left  fine  sand.  No.  5 =249,  matter  not  suspensible. 
Matter  suspended,  No.  6 = 316. 

This  will  give  an  idea  of  a mechanical  analysis  of  soils.  These 
operations  show  the  texture  and  relative  fineness  of  the  materials, 
which  throws  great  light  upon  their  peculiar  properties. 

Chemical  Analysis  of  Soil  from  Major  Stone’s  farm,  Waterford. 
One  hundred  grains  of  the  finest  powder,  analyzed,  gave  the  follow- 
ing results:— 


Water, 

- 

- 

05.0 

Vegetable  matter, 

- 

- 

14.0 

Silica, 

- 

- 

65.0 

Alumina, 

- 

- 

10.0 

Oxide  of  Iron, 

- 

- 

2.0 

Oxide  of  Manganese,  - 

- 

- 

1.5 

Phosphate  of  Lime, 

- 

- 

1.0 

Carb.  Lime,  - 

1.5 

100.0 

This  soil  is  remarkably  productive,  and  is  in  a high  state  of  culti- 
vation. 

Analysis  of  Soil  from  the  farm  of  Moses  Emery , Esq .,  of  Saco. 
This  soil  yields  40  bushels  of  corn  to  the  acre.  It  is  a yellow, 
sandy  loam,  and  was  evidently  derived  from  granite  rocks.  One 

11 


82 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


thousand  grains,  by  mechanical  analysis,  give — the  degrees  of  com- 
position as  per  method  above  described — 


1st,  sticks  and  roots,  5 

2d,  coarse  gravel,  - - - 13 

3d,  fine  gravel,  40 

4th,  fine  sand,  17 

5th,  fine  powder,  &c.  - 925 


1000 

Of  this  fine  powder  there  are — 

Matter  suspensible  in  water,  - - 122 

Matter  not  suspensible,  - 780 


Vegetable  matter  which  floats  on  the  surface  of  water,  23 

925 

Alluvial  Soil , Hooper's  farm , Aroostook  River.  It  is  a fine  yel- 
low loam,  very  luxuriant  and  productive  of  wheat,  potatoes,  &c. 


Mechanical  analysis — 

1st  degree,  -----  0 

2d,  vegetable  fibres  and  coarse  sand,  4 

3d,  “ fine  sand,  - - 9 

4th,  very  fine  loam,  - 987 

1000 

Chemical  analysis  gives  the  following  results — 

Water,  - 4.9 

Vegetable  matter,  - - - - 4.0 

Silica,  - 76.0 

Alumina,  - 5.0 

Per  ox.  iron  and  alumina,  - - - 10.9 


100.9 

In  100  grains  there  are — 

Insoluble  matter,  77 

Soluble  u - - 23 


100 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


83 


Mechanical 

50 
90 
40 
920 

1000 

6.5 
11.5 

60.0 

4.0 

11.0 

2.0 

1.0 

1.0 

3.0 

100.0 

Analysis  of  Soil  from  Bodge's  Mountain , Thomaston.  Dark 
red  brown  color ; growth,  black-oaks,  grass,  rye — luxuriant.  Rocks 
around,  manganesian  mica  slate. 

Mechanical  analysis — • 

1st,  particles  of  slate,  pebbles,  and  little  pieces  of 
manganesian  slate,  - 

2d,  silicious  gravel,  - 

3d,  fine  sand,  - 

4th,  very  fine  powder,  - 

Chemical  analysis  on  100  grains  of  the  fine  powder — 

Water,  - * - 

Vegetable  matter,  - 

Silica,  - 

Alumina  and  Magnesia,  - - 


206 

175 

10 

609 

1000 

6 

13 

51 

15 


Chemical  analysis  of  100  grains — 
Water,  - . 

Vegetable  matter, 

Silica, 

Manganese, 

Alumina, 

Ox.  Iron, 

Lime, 

Potash, 

Magnesia, 


Soil  of  Phipsburg  Basin , Dea.  Hutchins ’ farm. 
analysis  on  1 000  grains — 

1st  deg.  of  fineness,  veg.  fibres  and  pebbles, 

2d  46  “ 

3d  “ “ 

4th 


84 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


Ox.  Iron,  -----  12 

Manganese,  -----  6 

101 

# 

Gain  from  moisture,  1 

100 

Wiscasset.  Soil  remarkable  for  the  excellence  of  its  potatoes. 


Mechanical  analysis  of  1000  grains — 

1st  degree  of  fineness,  veg.  fibres  and  sticks,  - 10 

2d  “ “ - - - - 10 

3d  “ “ - 20 

4th  “ “ fine  mould,  - - 960 


1000 

Chemical  analysis  on  100  grains  of  the  fine  powder — 


Water,  -----  4.0 

Vegetable  matter,  - - - - 10.0 

Silica,  -----  58.0 

Alumina,  -----  14.0 

Magnesia,  -----  12. 0 

Ox.  Iron,  -----  2.0 


100,0 

Chemical  analysis  of  fine  alluvial  soil,  of  an  ash-grey  color,  from 
the  Oxbow,  of  the  Aroostook  river,  not  cultivated — 


Water, 

- 

- 

- 

8 

Vegetable  matter, 

- 

- 

- 

5 

Oxide  Iron, 

- 

- 

- 

3 

Alumina, 

- 

- 

- 

20 

Silica, 

- 

- 

- 

61 

Carb.  Lime,  - 

' 

2 

99 

Loss, 

- 

- 

- 

1 

100 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


85 


Analysis  of  soil  from  Fairbanks’s  farm,  Presq’  Isle  river,  near  the 
Aroostook  : yellow  loam,  mellow,  not  adhesive  ; no  stones  in  it ; 
produces  35  bushels  of  wheat  the  acre 

Water,  - 4.0 

Vegetable  matter,  - - - 4.5 

Ox.  Iron,  - - - - 4.5 

Silica,  - - - - - 76.0 

Alumina,  -----  10.0 

Carb.  Lime,  - - - - 1.0 

99.5 

Loss,  - - - - 5 

100.0 

The  black  vegetable  mould  upon  the  surface  of  this  soil  contains 
26  per  cent,  of  vegetable  matter,  and  the  remainder  is  yellow  soil, 
like  that  above  reported.  This  vegetable  matter,  when  treated  with 
boiling  water,  gives  5 grains  of  vegetable  extract  which  possesses  the 
properties  of  ulmine. 

Soil  from  Peter  Bull's  estate , on  the  Aroostook  river. 

Mechanical  analysis  of  LOO  grains — 


1st,  pebbles,  - 525 

2d,  fine  sand,  - 330 

3d,  “ - 25 

4th,  fine  powder,  - - - 130 


1000 

CAPABILITIES  OF  SOILS — VEGETABLE  PHYSIOLOGY. 

It  is  evident  that  plants  are  not  endowed  with  creative  powers, 
and  consequently  are  unable  to  produce  any  new  elementary  sub- 
stances ; hence  the  various  substances  which  enter  into  their  compo- 
sition, must  be  derived  from  the  air,  water  or  earth.  All  the  saline 
and  earthy  matters  which  they  contain  are  readily  traced  to  their 
origin  in  the  soil ; while  the  carbon,  hydrogen,  oxigen  and  nitrogen 
that  exist  in  them,  are  elements  which  they  draw  from  air,  water, 
and  the  animal  and  vegetable  substances  used  as  manures. 


86 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


The  atmosphere  is  composed  chiefly  of  the  two  gases,  nitrogen 
and  oxigen,  mixed  together  in  aeriform  solution,  in  the  proportion  of 
four  fifths  nitrogen,  and  one  fifth  oxigen ; besides  which  gases  there 
is  always  a certain  proportion  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  amounting  to 
10*000  Pai‘t,  and  variable  proportions  of  aqueous  vapor. 

From  the  carbonic  acid  gas  of  the  atmosphere,  plants  derive  a 
large  share  of  their  carbon,  which  is  the  basis  of  all  vegetable  matter. 
Some  of  it  is  also  furnished  by  the  fermentation  of  vegetable  and  ani- 
mal substances,  which  decompose  in  the  soil,  and  this  gas  is  either 
decomposed  by  the  leaves  of  vegetables,  or  is  carried  into  their  roots 
by  aqueous  solution  and  absorption.  All  fresh  growing  plants  de- 
compose the  carbonic  acid  of  the  air,  take  up  its  carbon,  and  exhale 
oxigen  gas,  and  this  operation  goes  on  more  rapidly  while  the  sun 
shines  upon  them.  In  darkness,  plants  give  out  carbonic  acid,  but 
the  quantity  is  relatively  small,  when  compared  with  that  which  they 
absorb  during  the  day.  So  that  if  a plant  is  grown  under  a bell 
glass,  containing  air  mixed  with  this  gas,  the  carbonic  acid  is  soon 
removed,  and  replaced  by  pure  oxigen. 

Thus  vegetation  is  continually  removing  a substance  deleterious  to 
man  and  all  animals,  and  replacing  it  by  pure  vital  air — a gas  abso- 
lutely necessary  for  their  respiration.  This  beautiful  law  of  nature 
should  never  be  lost  sight  of  by  the  farmer,  nor  should  he  ever  for- 
get the  relation  which  the  green  woods  and  fields  bear  to  the  health- 
fulness of  the  country. 

Seed  will  not  germinate,  without  the  joint  action  of  air,  water, 
light  and  heat.  Without  these  essential  conditions,  the  germ  re- 
mains, as  it  were,  asleep  for  an  unknown  length  of  time.  Seeds, 
taken  from  the  tombs  of  ancient  Thebes,  in  Egypt,  where  they  had 
remained  in  a dry,  dark  and  sequestered  spot  for  more  than  three  thou- 
sand years,  were  found  still  to  possess  their  vital  properties,  and 
when  planted  in  a botanical  garden  in  London,  sprang  forth,  to  flour- 
ish in  the  present  age.  How  long  a seed,,  thus  immured  in  dark- 
ness, shut  out  from  all  the  causes  which  would  produce  germination 
or  decay,  would  remain  alive,  is  wholly  unknown  ; but  from  the 
known  facts  respecting  spontaneous  rotation  of  crops  and  of  forest 
trees,  it  would  seem  that  the  seed  remain  buried  in  the  soil  for  enor- 
mous lengths  of  time,  before  the  circumstances  necessary  for  their 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


87 


putting  forth,  arrive.  Dead  leaves  of  the  forest  shut  out  light,  and 
preclude,  in  some  measure,  the  influence  of  the  atmosphere,  while 
the  sombre  foliage  hangs  over  the  soil,  and  serves,  by  its  shade,  as 
an  additional  cause  preventing  germination.  Thus,  I suppose,  the 
seed,  buried  in  the  forests,  remain  dormant  until  the  removal  of  the 
shade  trees,  or  the  burning  of  the  leaves,  gives  free  access  to  the 
causes  requisite  for  germination  and  growth  of  the  hidden  plants  ; 
and  we  consequently  perceive  a new  growth  almost  invariably  follows 
the  removal  of  the  primeval  forests.  According  to  Decandole, 
plants  exude  from  their  rootlets  certain  substances,  which  have  the 
property  of  eventually  eradicating  their  own  species,  while  they  are 
not  preventive  of  the  growth  of  other  plants  ; hence  he  accounts  for 
natural  rotation.  It  is  probable,  also,  that  one  kind  of  vegetables 
may  exhaust  their  proper  nutriment,  and  thus  render  the  soil  incapa- 
ble of  supporting  their  kind,  while  there  are  other  principles  left, 
suitable  for  the  support  of  different  species.  . This  subject  is,  how- 
ever, the  most  obscure  department  of  vegetable  physiology,  and 
one  which  demands  the  labor  of  modern  chemists  and  botanists. 
Thus  much  we  know,  that  the  conditions  above  stated  are  essential 
requisites  to  healthy  vegetation,  and  that  the  soil  must  furnish  certain 
substances  not  attainable  alone  from  air  and  water.  When  we  ana- 
lyze a plant,  we  always  find  a certain  quantity  of  silex,  alumina,  lime 
and  potash,  forming  a large  proportion  of  the  ashes  which  is  left  on 
burning  the  plant.  All  these  matters  are  contained  in  the  soil,  in 
greater  or  less  proportions,  and  some  of  them  are  essential  to  the 
growth  of  the  plants.  The  coating  of  wheat,  rye  and  barley  straw 
is  silex,  and  gives  the  necessary  strength  and  hardness  to  the  stalk. 

The  analysis  of  the  grain  of  wheat  gives  a large  proportion  of  the 
carbonates  and  phosphate  of  lime,  and  we  know  that  this  grain  only 
thrives  upon  a soil  containing  calcareous  matter.  It  was  long  ago 
observed  in  Massachusetts,  and  is  also  seen  in  certain  districts  in 
Maine,  that  wheat  straw  grows  very  well,  but  the  grain  does  not  fill 
and  present  a plump  and  solid  appearance,  but  looks  wilted,  and  is 
not  heavy.  This  was  .formerly  supposed  to  be  owing  to  the  climate, 
but  on  more  careful  examination  it  is  found  to  arise  from  the  want  of 
lime  in  the  soil.  Many  animal  manures  contain  a little  of  this  sub- 
stance, and  it  accordingly  appears,  that  where  a farm  is  well  ma- 


88 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


nured,  wheat  will  grow  well  upon  it,  but  a large  annual  expenditure 
is  required  for  the  purpose.  It  is  observed,  that  all  the  grain  regions 
of  the  country  have  soils  more  or  less  calcareous,  and  we  find,  that, 
by  adding  lime  to  the  soil,  we  may  produce  by  art  the  material  want- 
ing ; and  it  appears  by  the  analyses  here  presented,  and  by  the  re- 
sults of  certain  experiments  which  have  been  made  in  France,  and 
repeated  here,  that  a very  minute  proportion  of  lime  is  amply  suf- 
ficient for  the  purpose.  Thus  one  or  two  per  cent,  of  carbonate  of 
lime  will  answer  the  purpose,  and  this  small  quantity  costs  so  little, 
that  any  farmer  can  well  afford  to  apply  it  to  the  soil.  Indeed,  I 
do  not  see  how  he  can  afford  to  do  otherwise,  since  he  will  be  a 
loser,  and  his  more  skilful  neighbors  will  be  enabled  to  supply  the 
market,  while  he  will  not  be  able  to  recover  his  seed. 

It  is  a great  mistake  to  suppose,  that  wheat  will  grow  in  any  soil ; 
for  I know,  that  in  many  instances,  the  crop  raised  the  past  season, 
which  has  certainly  been  very  propitious,  did  not  equal  in  value  the 
seed  sown  ; and  these  instances  all  occurred  where  the  soil  was  des- 
titute of  lime,  and  was  not  largely  manured. 

Unless  you  wish  to  waste  your  labor  upon  barren  and  unproduc- 
tive fields,  attend  carefully  to  the  nature  of  your  soil,  and  supply 
those  elements  which  are  wanting,  in  order  to  render  it  fruitful. 

When  lime  is  moistened  with  water,  it  becomes  hot,  swells,  and 
falls  into  a bulky  white  powder,  called  by  chemists,  the  hydrate  of 
lime,  it  being  composed  of  water  combined  with  that  substance  in  a 
solid  state.  This  powder,  if  the  lime  is  of  good  quality,  will  amount 
to  nearly  three  times  as  much  as  before  it  was  slaked,  so  that  one 
cask  of  lime  will  fill  three  casks  with  the  hydrate,  or  water-slaked 
lime.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  lime  is  exposed  to  the  action  of  the 
air,  it  will  attract  carbonic  acid  gas,  and  become  air-slaked,  which  op- 
eration re-converts  it  into  its  original  chemical  state.  The  hydrate 
also  attract  carbonic' acid  from  the  air,  and  is  likewise  converted  into 
the  carbonate,  which  will  weigh  nearly  twice  as  much  as  the  quick 
lime,  from  which  it  is  made. 

I mention  these  evident  facts,  in  order  to  assure  the  farmer,  that 
when  he  buys  a cask  of  lime,  it  will  make  about  three  of  the  article 
which  he  uses  as  a manure,  and  consequently,  that  it  is  not  so  expen- 
sive as  he  might  imagine,  since  it  increases  in  bulk,  and  will  cover  a 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


89 


considerable  surface.  Moreover,  by  a skilful  management,  the  farm- 
er may,  by  the  use  of  lime,  form  a vast  number  of  valuable  composts, 
and  may  destroy,  or  not,  as  he  pleases,  the  seeds  and  insects  in  his 
compost  or  barn  manure.  It  also  has  the  power  of  decomposing  an- 
imal and  vegetable  substances,  the  extent  of  which  operations,  a 
skilful  hand  can  regulate  at  will,  and  a great  variety  of  valuable  saline 
compounds,  the  most  active  of  manures,  may  be  formed.  There  are 
many  cases,  also,  where  the  combining  power  of  this  substance  can 
be  taken  advantage  of,  in  the  neutralization  or  removal  of  deleterious 
matters,  and  by  judicious  management,  those  very  principles  may  be 
converted  into  valuable  manures. 

The  following  table  shows  the  relative  strength  of  several  different 
kinds  of  limestone  found  in  Maine  during  the  past  season  ; 100  grains 
being  the  weight  of  each  stone  analysed. 


LOCALITY. 

KIND  OF  ROCK  FOR- 
MATION. 

INSOLUBLE  MAT- 
TER, PER  CENT. 

CARB.  LIME 
PER  CENT. 

QUANTITY  PURE 
LIME  PER  CENT. 

Buckfield, 

Beds  in  gneiss  rest- 
ing on  gran,  rocks. 

49. 

51. 

28.71 

Winthrop,  Mr.  Boll’s  farm, 

43. 

57. 

31.94 

Hallowell, 

ii  ii 

42. 

58. 

32.60 

Newfield,  impure  kind, 

a (( 

26. 

74. 

41.10 

“ purer,  Davis’  farm, 

ii  (€ 

19. 

81. 

45.41 

Norway, 

M U 

38. 

62. 

34.80 

Bluehiil, 

(C  ii 

31. 

69. 

38.70 

Paris, 

44  44 

18. 

82. 

46.12 

Whitefield, 

Union, 

4C  CC 

(4  it 

5. 

95. 

53.50 

It  is  a common  practice  among  farmers,  to  make  use  of  peat,  pond 
mud,  or  muck,  as  they  call  it,  and  I have  observed  instances  in  which 
it  was  evident  that  the  soil  was  greatly  injured  by  its  application.  In 
one  instance,  I observed  in  Waterford,  that  a portion  of  the  field  on 
which  this  substance  was  placed,  presented  a dwarfish  and  sickly  yel- 
low crop  of  Indian  corn,  while  that  part  of  the  field  not  treated  by  it, 
was  covered  with  a most  luxuriant  and  healthy  growth  of  the  same 
corn.  The  operation  was  tried  experimentally,  in  order  to  ascertain 
the  value  of  peat  alone  as  a manure. 

If  it  had  first  been  made  into  a compost,  with  animal  manure  and 
lime,  it  would  have  presented  very  different  results.  Lime  alone  on 
peat  merely  renders  its  acid  properties  inert,  and  then  it  answers 
pretty  well  as  a manure.  But  if  laid  down  in  layers  with  barn-yard 
12 


90  GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 

manure,  night  soil,  dead  fish,  or  any  other  animal  matter,  and  then 
each  layer  is  strewed  with  lime,  a most  powerful  fomentation  will  take 
place,  and  a vast  quantity  of  ammonia  will  be  disengaged,  which  com- 
bining with  the  ulmic  acid  of  peat,  will  form  ulmate  of  ammonia,  a 
most  powerful  manure.  Carbonate  of  ammonia,  and  many  other  salts, 
will  also  result,  which  convert  the  whole  mass  into  the  very  richest 
kind  of  manure,  forming  what  may  be  properly  called  a universal 
compost. 

If  the  farmer  is  desirous  of  destroying  the  seeds  and  insects  in  barn- 
yard manure,  let  him  heap  it  up  in  alternate  layers,  with  fresh  quick 
lime,  and  the  heat  generated  will  effectually  destroy  them.  This  op- 
eration produces  a number  of  soluble  salts,  and  therefore  it  should 
only  be  done  where  the  manure  is  soon  to  be  used,  for  the  rain 
would  remove  them  in  solution. 

If  a soil  is  charged  with  sulphate  of  iron,  it  is  best  to  use  quick- 
lime in  powder  sprinkled  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  for  its  action  is 
the  more  rapid  and  powerful.  Generally,  however,  it  is  proper  to 
slake  the  lime  with  water,  and  then  to  expose  it  freely  to  the  air,  in 
case  it  is  to  be  sown  broad-cast,  so  that  it  may  become  carbonated, 
which  renders  it  more  permanent,  it  being  less  soluble  in  water. 

In  general,  it  may  be  stated,  that  about  four  casks  of  lime  are  re- 
quired for  each  acre  of  land,  and  according  to  the  experience  of  M. 
Puvis,  this  quantity,  in  many  cases,  was  found  amply  sufficient.  If 
the  soil  is  loose  and  sandy,  without  any  clay  bottom  near  the  surface, 
it  is  evident  that  annual  renewals  will  be  required,  until  the  desirable 
quantity  is  obtained. 

The  following  tables  shew  the  amelioration  of  soils  in  France, 
where  liming  has  been  very  successful ; and  where  it  has  been  found 
that  3 per  cent,  of  lime  in  the  soil  was  amply  sufficient  to  render  it 
extremely  luxuriant.  It  will  also  be  remarked,  that  the  beneficial 
effects  of  this  treatment  were  even  more  strongly  marked  on  the  rye 
crops  than  on  those  of  wheat.  It  is  found,  also,  that  lime  succeeds 
best  when  used  in  a compost  of  animal  and  vegetable  matter,  and 
where  this  method  is  pursued,  the  soil  becomes  annually  richer,  in- 
stead of  being  exhausted. 


1838. 


HOUSE— No.  70. 


91 


Table  of  Product  of  the  Domain  of  La  Croi- 


RYE. 

WHEAT. 

RYE. 

WHEAT. 

YEARS. 

Seed. 

Product. 

Seed. 

Product. 

! Seed. 

Product. 

Seed. 

Product. 

1822 

110 

600 

24 

146 

no 

505 

22 

180 

1823 

110 

764 

24 

136 

no 

643 

22 

138 

1824 

no 

744 

24 

156 

no 

662 

24 

149 

1825 

107 

406 

27 

251 

102 

398 

32 

252 

1826 

106 

576 

28 

210 

no 

612 

32 

187 

1827 

100 

504 

30 

249 

107 

546 

34 

204 

1828 

90 

634 

36 

391 

98 

696 

38 

243 

1829 

82 

538 

48 

309 

84 

608 

40 

268 

1830 

60 

307 

60 

459 

91 

389 

59 

374 

1831 

78 

350 

40 

417 

92 

411 

40 

295 

1832 

55 

478 

68 

816 

70 

512 

80 

649 

1833 

61 

529 

52 

545 

75 

511 

51 

471 

Table  of  Product  of  the  Domain  of 
La  Barronne. 


Marl  may  be  used  in  the  same  manner  as  air-slaked  lime,  and  it  is 
found  to  possess  similar  properties.  Sea  shells  may  be  used  when 
broken  to  pieces  by  the  action  of  fire,  or  by  frost,  and  great  benefit 
is  gained  by  such  a dressing.  Shells  owe  their  fertilising  properties 
to  the  carbonate  of  lime,  of  which  they  are  chiefly  composed,  but 
their  compact  texture  requires  to  be  broken  down  in  the  manner 
alluded  to. 

Burnt  bones  contain  a small  quantity  of  carbonate,  mixed  with  a 
large  proportion  of  the  phosphate  of  lime,  and  may  be  advantageously 
used.  Bones  ground  to  powder  have  also  a very  powerful  and  de- 
sirable influence,  forming  one  of  the  most  valuable  top-dressings  with 
which  we  are  acquainted.  The  refuse  bone  black,  from  sugar  re- 
fineries, is  also  extremely  powerful,  and  is  one  of  the  warmest  and 
strongest  manures  known.  It  is  highly  prized  in  France,  and  I have 
formerly  mentioned  the  fact,  that  orders  were  even  sent  to  this  coun- 
try for  this  article.  It  may  be  made  into  a compost  with  other  mat- 
ters, since  it  is  too  strong  to  be  used  alone. 

Gypsum  is  said  to  operate  well  as  a stimulant  to  vegetation,  and 
acts  powerfully  where  the  soils  are  calcareous.  In  Pennsylvania,  it 
is  sown  broad-cast  upon  their  limestone  soils,  and  operates  power- 
fully, favoring  the  growth  of  grain  and  grasses.  In  Maine,  it  is  the 
general  opinion  of  farmers,  that  this  mineral  does  not  succeed  upon 
the  sea-coast,  while  it  answers  a good  purpose  in  the  interior  of  the 
state.  I am  not  yet  prepared,  however,  to  report  upon  the  subject, 
since  I have  not  been  able  to  gather  the  requisite  number  of  facts. 

I will  venture  to  say,  however,  that  gypsum  will  prove  an  advan^ 


93 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  PUBLIC  LANDS.  April, 


tageous  dressing  to  the  soils  near  Houlton,  New  Limerick,  and  along 
the  whole  course  of  the  Aroostook,  while,  if  it  should  be  required, 
the  Tobique  river,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Aroostook,  contains 
upon  its  banks  an  inexhaustible  supply.  It  will,  however,  seldom  be 
necessary  for  many  years  to  apply  any  manures  to  the  Aroostook 
soils,  for  the  farmers  there  only  complained  that  the  soil  was  too 
rich  at  first,  and  when  reduced  by  several  years’  cultivation,  was  more 
easily  managed.  I have  no  doubt  of  the  truth  of  this  observation, 
for  upon  Mr.  Fairbanks’s  farm,  on  that  river,  I observed  gigantic 
wheat  stubble,  one  straw  of  which  measured  1 J inch  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  Mr.  F.  remarked,  that  new  crops  were  frequently  laid  by 
their  weight,  before  they  were  ready  to  reap. 

I have  no  doubt,  that  in  the  course  of  time,  it  will  be  found  ad- 
vantageous to  burn  the  Aroostook  limestone,  for  the  treatment  of  the 
soils,  where  they  are  devoid  of  it,  and  every  advantage  is  there  pre- 
sented for  this  purpose. 

The  limestone  of  Newfield,  Norway,  Paris  and  Buckfield,  may 
be  advantageously  used  for  manure,  and  can  be  burned  by  means  of 
peat  or  wood.  On  the  sea-coast  it  will  be  more  economical  to  pur- 
chase Thomaston  and  Camden  lime,  unless  it  should  be  found,  that 
lime-burning  can  be  carried  on  on  a large  scale  by  means  of  peat  or 
hard  coal. 

There  are  so  many  localities  of  peat  in  Maine,  that  I hardly  have 
thought  it  necessary  to  describe  them,  but  I would,  however,  point 
out  the  localities. 

1st.  On  the  rail-road  route  in  Bangor. 

2d.  At  Bluehill. 

3d.  Near  the  Marsh  quarry  in  Thomaston. 

4th.  In  the  town  of  Limerick,  in  York  County. 

5th.  In  the  town  of  Waterford,  in  Oxford  County,  on  the  Coolidge 
farm. 

These  localities  are  among  the  most  abundant,  and  may  be  most 
advantageously  wrought  for  fuel,  which  may  be  used  for  the  burning 
of  lime  and  for  domestic  use,  besides  which  it  may  be  converted 
into  a powerful  manure,  adapted  admirably  for  loosening  and  enrich- 
ing clayey  soils. 

Artificial  meadows  formed  upon  the  surface  of  a peat  bog,  are  al- 


1838. 


HOUSE — No.  70. 


93 


ways  exempt  from  drought,  and  they  are  remarkably  fertile.  They 
may  be  made  by  carting  soil  upon  them,  and  will  amply  repay  the 
labor.  Any  person  who  is  desirous  of  seeing  a fine  example  of  an 
artificial  meadow  of  the  kind  I have  mentioned,  is  referred  to  the 
rich  farm  of  Benjamin  Bussey,  Esq.,  Jamaica  Plain,  Roxbury, 
Mass.,  where  that  enterprising  agriculturist  has  formed  an  almost 
evergreen  meadow,  of  the  kind  alluded  to  above. 

I may  remark  in  general,  that  all  the  soils  between  Bangor  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Kennebec,  evidently  need  liming  to  greater  or  less  ex- 
tent ; and  the  vicinity  of  Richmond,  Gardiner,  Vassalborough,  Unity 
and  Dixmont,  evidently  would  be  highly  improved  by  its  judicious 
application. 

When  we  have  learned  by  chemical  analysis,  the  composition  of 
the  most  remarkable  soils  of  the  State,  we  may  be  enabled  to  give 
specific  directions  for  their  amelioration. 

Much  light  may  be  gained  respecting  their  relative  fertility,  by  the 
agricultural  returns  made  under  the  orders  of  the  Legislature,  and  if 
due  attention  is  paid  to  the  filling  of  the  blanks,  sent  out  to  the  treas- 
urers of  the  various  towns,  we  shall  have  an  admirable  statistical  view 
of  the  relative  value  of  the  various  soils  in  different  parts  of  the  State. 

It  will  be  useful  to  send  out  printed  blanks  for  other  kinds  of  pro- 
duce besides  wheat,  so  that  we  may  learn  what  are  the  present  agri- 
cultural capabilities  of  the  State,  and  in  another  year  we  can  furnish 
more  extended  and  accurate  information  on  this  very  important  sub- 
ject. 

Geology  and  chemistry  are  capable  of  furnishing  powerful  aid  to 
the  farmers,  and  if  we  are  allowed  sufficient  means  to  accomplish  the 
work  in  a satisfactory  manner,  immense  benefits  will  necessarily  accrue 
to  the  citizens  of  Maine. 

Respectfully  submitted, 

By  your  obedient  servant, 


C.  T.  JACKSON. 


N.  B.  An  important  error  has  escaped  our  detection,  while  the  foregoing 
sheets  were  rapidly  going  through  press,  and  the  reader  is  desired  to  note 
and  correct  it,  by  substituting  for  the  erroneous  calculation,  respecting  the 
quantity  and  value  of  the  Aroostook  iron  ore  on  page  35,  the  following : 

450 X 36 XlOCbr 1,620, COO  cubic  feet  of  ore  each  cubic  foot  weighing  240  lbs. 
1,620,000X240,0001=388,800,000  lbs.  of  ore,  which  yielding  50  per  cent, 
of  iron,  would  give  194,400,000  lbs.  of  iron  or  97,200  tons.  This  multiplied 
by  $50  the  value  of  a ton  of  iron,  will  give  $4,860,000,  as  the  value  of  the 
iron  in  this  bed  within  the  limits  measured. 


C.  T.  J. 


